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Nope .Its the exact same size size.But a chinese one. We had to unscrew it a little bit so as to align the ports in the new one to exactly match the old one. It was a tough job…. the new turbo in place in the exact same position the old one was and then putting back on the exhaust manfold.
Now I get an p1549….. This points to bpv or the dump valve . Officially it reads the boost control valve.any clue what’s happening.I think the wastegate valve comes as a separate piece.
The dump valve has been replaced by a brand new Forge kind of valve
Unfortunately I have a rare model , which will not have a boost guage .
My understanding is that the if the dump vv & waste gate did not work work , I probably would have blown up by turbo . After the new turbo install I drove the car a thousand miles
I don’t understand why it suddenly jolts when it kicks inYes it does have dual zone.
I think blend actuator is just a plastic part
Read about it a little bit and found out I have to run an ACC diagnostics.
I will run this and post results overBelow site talks more about these problems
http://www.saabservices.com/9-5%20AC.
Attaching some usefulAttachments:October 5, 2015 at 3:02 pm in reply to: P1549 code. Turbo bypass valve : thriller mystery. Who’s done i #840791Yes all of , have been replaced by brand new silicone hosehoses. The only thing that I did not check at the time these were replaced was, below and behind – the Wastegate valve.
The new turbo after installation I get jolts when it kicks in & the car feels rough. Wonder why that happens.Yes all of them are except for the one down and below I think that is where the BPV sits..?. I have to get someone to look down there. In the meantime after a brand new turbo install I also had to reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative which I did not do before taking the thousand mile trip. I have done it now after reading about it. There is information to suggest that merely resetting that ECU can do to the job. I will post a follow up on what happened. But what does it look like to you , when CEl is thrown after rev up up and going to RPM > 3k ( > 75 mph on my car ).
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Clogged cats usually point to a problem somewhere else . .. Long ago I had this problem on an m p v…. Myself being just a layman… Those diagnostic doctors ….. A s e Certified etc …. Ask me to get brand new cats… The problem was the distributor and it blew off the new cats too , before we nailed it down. I hope I m not opening another Pandora’s box.
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By the way I did confirm once again that after the car has been sitting for quite a , on starting it then, I will see the white bluish fumes and I can smell some sort of oil. Does that sound like a turbo charger ?. Should I order the full turbo charger or just the cartridge
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The power before and after the valve change feels the same. I changed the valve since I got the specific p1100. Was not sure what the problem was at that time – valve or hoses. ordered a new valve and hoses and got both of these replaced.
Btw the new forge like valve it’s supposed to be superior than the bosch stock valve since it uses a piston movement inside as compared to the stock valve which uses a rubber diaphragm.
I might sound a bit off topic here but perhaps while you are at it …you could throw in your valuable cents here as well.I am a bit lost with the settings for this forge valve.Kit came with the three springs + 2 washers. Now I do not have any clue about how to go about assessing if the valve installed fine. there was a green spring , a yellow spring and another non coded spring already in the container valve. The instructions said you add as many you want from zero washers at the top of the spring . But the spring itself is too wide
to let these remain on top – they just fall down at the bottom near the hole. is that where the washers are supposed to be.
How do I know if this install the way it should have. I do not really see any appreciable so called boost in the power.Sent from my JY-S3 using Tapatalk
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thank you I think I’ll do that. But with a 175 k , it may be that a turbo could be overdue anyways ?
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Thank you actually I see both . There are very faint oil spots on the passenger side front . Earlier I used to see the blue smoke come off when there was a check engine light ponting 2 the dump valve and like I said I got not only a brand new valve but also changed ,I believe ,most of the vacuum hoses.
Is there any sure shot diagnostic to see where are all the leaks like injecting some dye. Or the most cost effective way is too take your best bets , on one by one fixes and see if things change for the better. The car is already 175 k so don’t really want to put a lot of money. But if I can find out sure shot problem then I will invest in those parts and get the right fixes in placeSent from my JY-S3 using Tapatalk
Also I don’t see any obvious oil leaks and my mechanic sprayed some brake spray on the underside to see if there’s anything around but could not find anything But then on the right side, if I park the car in the same spot after about a week I see a dull black spot more towards the passenger side. Hopefully that tell you something more than what it tells me and I would like to hear back from you folks.
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Thank you . yes I did see some smoke on a hot afternoon. and I could kind of smell some oil only when the car is parked and that again is on a hot bafternoon. I don’t see it when the car starts running
I just replaced all the vacuum hoses we forgot just one and I think that was the one that ran from the coolant valves all the way deep running horizontally. I have not been losing any coolant btw the past or now.Sent from my JY-S3 using Tapatalk
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