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If your seeing a lot of oil under the vehicle, you need to really search for the external leak. Start from the top and work your way down and back towards the rear of the engine. That’s your traditional leak path. From what you said about having to add oil every week, you can always clean off the oiled areas with carb or brake clean because it sounds like you will see the leak pretty quick. Also, if you are seeing a decent cloud of smoke coming from the tail pipe, then yes, you are also burning oil. I have seen a teaspoon of oil fill a shop with smoke. I would clean all the areas real well and then look for a leak or by a small bottle of oil dye. Pour it right into the oil cap and drive the vehicle for awhile. This requires a black light but it is helpful in finding the leak. The smoke concerns me because if you have an internal leak, thats a bit more concern then an external. A compression test will help a lot. Eric has a great video of both the dry and wet compression test. If you can perform this test, do it in that order. Hope this helps.
By the way, what is the make, model, year?
exactly what was stated above. However, I just started out not to long ago and the place I am at, you get everything from the gate. I got gaskets for everything, rack and pinions, rear main seals, and the tires, oil and alignments. It all depends where you end up at. Absolutely show a lot of respect and the other workers will be more willing the help and share advice. Most of them want to anyway. I would say practice as much tires as you can while still in your program. Get really good at low profiles. When a standard tire comes by, its like having your cake and eating it too.
How did the old plugs look when you changed them? Can you see any visible leaks from the top of the engine? If you have the ability, see if you can see any leaks from the bottom of the engine. Do you have smoke coming out the tail pipe? I would be checking all the areas outside for an external leak before I went on to seeing what’s going on inside. I wouldn’t be looking for additives to help. Hope this get’s you closer.
Should be no problem. They can always be manufactured differently. It happens to me at work all the time. One key thing to do is whenever you change your oil, take the old filter and the new filter and rub the gasket surface together. This helps to not only see if the gaskets are the same but to also make sure the gasket was not left on the filter housing. if no leak is present and the filter went on good, then no worries.
I’ve got about 4ish months left of my technical training, and in Nov. I am going for my last 3! Engine Performance and the two Trans./Drive Trains. Would be pretty cool to leave a Master Tech. but there is Jan. as well.
My A4 test had a major amount of just wear and tear on parts and being able to understand noise complaints. The best trick I learned was to sit there during the test and position my hands the way caster, camber, and toe were showed. Helped out a lot.
A5 is pretty basic. As long as you have an understanding of a few noises and a general concept of pedal problems, process of elimination isn’t that bad on brakes.
Good luck, and if you have any questions I can try my best to help.
Hey there. I would suggest you buy a 5 buck or less stethoscope from your auto store or something like a Harbor Freight and probe around those areas when you have the conditions for the problem. This should help you narrow down your search.
When you turn the key, what exactly happens. Does the car crank or is there no sound at all? Just trying to get a better idea of what is exactly happening. When did your car start having this problem?
What happens when you turn the key now? Just to make sure, you were driving when this happened. I would start by checking the electrical system. If you have access to a DVOM, awesome. Verify battery voltage, and check the connections at the battery. You say a new battery is in the car but still check. Corrosion can be a tricky thing allowing you to feel warm inside until it decides to mess with you. The alternator could be giving you grief as well. Without knowing the car to well, I am assuming(I know) you are talking about a new drive belt. How tight is tight? Faulty alternator could cause a lot of problems and not allow your battery to recharge. This is only a starting point but see what else you can find. Good luck!
While having my Auto textbook is helpful, I definitely used the ASE practice questions and study areas they provide on their website. There is a publishing company, G-W, I believe. They make ASE books in series A1-A8. A few of my classmates have gotten these books and they are really great.
As for the electrical test, I reviewed wiring diagrams and the general tests you would preform on the charging/starting system and that helped a lot. Electrical was the first class in my program and luckily enough I found myself working on a horn for a month and a half while I learned exactly how to function in this area of study. By the time I fixed the horn(cop car donated to school, horn ground wire cut to put in sirens) I had a pretty good grasp of volts/amps/ohms.
Check out those books if you want and good luck on your test!