Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I use Mitchell ProDemand, mainly because it’s the only one I can access from home. It’s pretty good. I like it because you can calculate out cost for people– parts, labor, shop equipment, etc– if you’re running your own business on the side. I do some work, and I used to get hung up with what to charge people, now I can throw it all together and print it off to show I’m not just throwing numbers up.
It also has great wiring diagrams if you do a lot of electrical work.
[quote=”slotcar” post=79671]No one rule will cover every person’s vehicle.[/quote]
Precisely.
[i]Is the synthetic stuff really as good as they say?
Will I get better gas mileage with synthetic?
Can I really drive up to 10,000 miles between oil changes?[/i]I tell all my customers that their engines are fine with conventional every 3,000 miles. I wouldn’t use synthetic unless the manufacturer recommends it. Correct viscosity and oil changes will keep an engine happy.
Even though I’m supposed to sell, sell, sell… :whistle:
[quote=”slotcar” post=79671]No one rule will cover every person’s vehicle.[/quote]
Precisely.
[i]Is the synthetic stuff really as good as they say?
Will I get better gas mileage with synthetic?
Can I really drive up to 10,000 miles between oil changes?[/i]I tell all my customers that their engines are fine with conventional every 3,000 miles. I wouldn’t use synthetic unless the manufacturer recommends it. Correct viscosity and oil changes will keep an engine happy.
Even though I’m supposed to sell, sell, sell… :whistle:
I will change my oil every 3,000 miles regardless of conventional, syn blend, or full syn. Because 3,000 is an interval that has been tested time and time again by the everyday consumer and daily driver.
Did the oil companies road test millions of cars to go 7,000 miles on one synthetic oil change? I really doubt it. It was probably simulated in a lab somewhere, and not stop and go all day long off pump gas like the rest of the world. So if conditions are perfect and regulated, sure, I believe you can go much farther between oil changes.
By the way, does anyone know how they test the 7,000 mile oil change?
I will change my oil every 3,000 miles regardless of conventional, syn blend, or full syn. Because 3,000 is an interval that has been tested time and time again by the everyday consumer and daily driver.
Did the oil companies road test millions of cars to go 7,000 miles on one synthetic oil change? I really doubt it. It was probably simulated in a lab somewhere, and not stop and go all day long off pump gas like the rest of the world. So if conditions are perfect and regulated, sure, I believe you can go much farther between oil changes.
By the way, does anyone know how they test the 7,000 mile oil change?
Any price is really hard to say because we have no reference for what you’re asking. If you’re getting a 1993 Malibu with 350K miles on it, you’re probably spending too much. If you’re getting a 2003 Yukon SLT, you may be getting a steal (disregarding gas prices).
The amount you’re willing to spend doesn’t define the value of the car you’re looking for. You’ll just have to shop around and let us know what you’re looking at. Inspect every detail and take a car for a few test drives, then ask yourself (and/or us) if it’s a good car for $5,000 or less. 🙂
Don’t rush it. Make sure you get the car you want.
Any price is really hard to say because we have no reference for what you’re asking. If you’re getting a 1993 Malibu with 350K miles on it, you’re probably spending too much. If you’re getting a 2003 Yukon SLT, you may be getting a steal (disregarding gas prices).
The amount you’re willing to spend doesn’t define the value of the car you’re looking for. You’ll just have to shop around and let us know what you’re looking at. Inspect every detail and take a car for a few test drives, then ask yourself (and/or us) if it’s a good car for $5,000 or less. 🙂
Don’t rush it. Make sure you get the car you want.
A blank check is a little much. If that’s the case, I could make the balling-est Yukon ever. I’ll limit my modifications to something in my budget. 😛
1. Fix my transmission slip
2. New transfer case rear housing
3. K&N urethane cold air intake
4. Molded rubber floor mats
5. Silverstar Ultra bulbs all around
6. Repaint
7. Stock rims (I have American Racing chrome rims that came with it, they are ugly)
8. New ball hitchOther than that, keep it stock.
A blank check is a little much. If that’s the case, I could make the balling-est Yukon ever. I’ll limit my modifications to something in my budget. 😛
1. Fix my transmission slip
2. New transfer case rear housing
3. K&N urethane cold air intake
4. Molded rubber floor mats
5. Silverstar Ultra bulbs all around
6. Repaint
7. Stock rims (I have American Racing chrome rims that came with it, they are ugly)
8. New ball hitchOther than that, keep it stock.
Also, keep in mind the question, why did your battery die? In all probability, it’s just an old battery. They go bad sometimes, but if they are deeply discharged, sometimes they can’t be restored. Like DioFan said, definitely check the alternator, too. AutoZone should be able to do that right after the battery load test. Because if your alternator is out, you’re running on the reserve capacity of the battery.
And I never rule out the possibility of a battery draw, especially with an older vehicle which may have bad grounds or loose connections. If your van was sitting for a while with a low-amp drain, it’ll suck the life out of your battery pretty quickly.
Good luck.
Also, keep in mind the question, why did your battery die? In all probability, it’s just an old battery. They go bad sometimes, but if they are deeply discharged, sometimes they can’t be restored. Like DioFan said, definitely check the alternator, too. AutoZone should be able to do that right after the battery load test. Because if your alternator is out, you’re running on the reserve capacity of the battery.
And I never rule out the possibility of a battery draw, especially with an older vehicle which may have bad grounds or loose connections. If your van was sitting for a while with a low-amp drain, it’ll suck the life out of your battery pretty quickly.
Good luck.
I bought a few together. Matco 1/2″ DR torque wrench, 3/8″ DR torque wrench, and their 3-piece 88-tooth ratchet set.
Best money I’ve ever spent… so far.
I bought a few together. Matco 1/2″ DR torque wrench, 3/8″ DR torque wrench, and their 3-piece 88-tooth ratchet set.
Best money I’ve ever spent… so far.
Any house brand will get you by, basically. If you’re looking for quality, you’re most likely going to pay more.
Also, take into consideration the life of your vehicle and how well it has been taken care of by previous owners, and yourself. Ball joints aren’t too much of an issue since they aren’t a component that takes a ton of time to replace, but on a 12 year old vehicle, are brand-new, expensive Moog ball joints and tie rods worth it?
It all depends on what you want, but for the most part money = quality. Find out what the high-end brand support, too. Do they support any race leagues, NASCAR or otherwise? Could be a good indication of a solid product. Just be wary of house brands. 🙂
Any house brand will get you by, basically. If you’re looking for quality, you’re most likely going to pay more.
Also, take into consideration the life of your vehicle and how well it has been taken care of by previous owners, and yourself. Ball joints aren’t too much of an issue since they aren’t a component that takes a ton of time to replace, but on a 12 year old vehicle, are brand-new, expensive Moog ball joints and tie rods worth it?
It all depends on what you want, but for the most part money = quality. Find out what the high-end brand support, too. Do they support any race leagues, NASCAR or otherwise? Could be a good indication of a solid product. Just be wary of house brands. 🙂