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Before you gave her the receipt, she had no proof that you worked on the car. There is a difference between a contract to do a specific job and a contract to make repairs until the car is running better. If she told you, “Change my timing belt.”, then you would be under contract to do just that and you could ignore all other repairs (or resolve all other symptoms). If she said, “fix my car”, then I would expect a dialog would follow. As soon as you found all the other problems, the customer should have been notified. An agreement would need to be made as to what would be done first. I’m writing as a customer. I don’t run a garage and I fix my own cars under the oak tree.
My wife and I have been through enough legal scrapes to know that even lawyers have people they must answer to. Yes, judges can tell who is lying.
A school’s good name is based on the success of its students. If the programs are strong, then you have a good start. Check with the job placement counselor on how well the college has done in finding jobs for the students (in their career choice, not fry cook at the Krusty Krab).
Check for ignition spark. Chances are good you will be replacing a bad ignition module after a short list of other parts to check.
I have to study the car repair procedure numerous times, so that I know when the result is deviating from the norm. How many of you had a wheel nut that wouldn’t come off with a 1500 lb air tool? The nut turned with a high quality breaker bar and 6 feet of pipe. I broke my breaker bar. Which was only good up to 375 ft lbs.
I also know what it is like to work without a safety net. Working by yourself, without the benefit of an experienced hand, leaves you on the edge with the possibility that you will make matters worse. It either requires a lot of self-confidence or an attitude that you have nothing to lose. This is difficult at best when you are working on the family car that needs to work the same day or tomorrow.
I would not be seeking advice from multiple forums. “Well, he said, and they said” is only going to add to the confusion. KNOW THAT THESE GUYS HERE will stay with you to the end until the problem is solved!
Research away! I hope that your sources of information are good sources! The more you know about what you are doing, hopefully the better off you will be.
Find a way to do the leak down test. Maybe someone here can offer typical results of the test,… more useful information!
If you did put in the filter backwards, I would replace it, because any debris captured by the filter media will be sent to the front of your fuel system if you reverse it now.
One option is to get it repaired. You asked the dealership about replacement cost. If you are good at removing and replacing transmissions, then you could pull it for rebuild or repair and then put it back in. A time saver might be to pull a used one for rebuild and swap. Used transmissions at my local junkyard are $130.
From a ’94 Accord shop manual… (notes “T” and “V” are interesting!)
erratic shifting: probable cause 2,14,26 note V
harsh shift (1-2): probable cause 2,9,15,23 notes C,D,E,V
harsh downshift at closed throttle: probable cause 2,15,23 notes E,T2. Throttle cable too short
9. 2nd clutch defective
14. Modulator valve stuck
15. Throttle valve B stuck
23. Clutch pressure control valve stuck
26. Main oriface control valve stucknotes
C, If the large clutch piston O-ring is broken, inspect the piston groove for rough machining.
D, If the clutch pack is seized or is excessively worn, inspect the other clutches for wear, and check the oriface control valves the throttle valves for free movement.
E, If throttle valve B is stuck, inspect the clutches for wear.
T, Harsh downshifts when coasting to a stop with zero throttle may be caused by a bent-in throttle valve retainer/cam stopper. Throttle cable adjustment may clear this problem.
V, Throttle cable adjustment is essential for proper operation of the transmission. Not only does it affect the shift points if misadjusted, but also the shift quality and lock-up clutch operation. A cable adjusted too long will result in throttle pressure being too low for the amount of engine torque input into the transmission and may cause clutch slippage. A cable adjusted too short will result in too high throttle pressure which may cause harsh shifts, erratic shifts and torque converter hunting.
I think you can get to the throttle cable and valves from the outside. I don’t know, I haven’t tried! My car sometimes has a harsh downshift just like you describe, as if being rear ended. I’m at 225K miles.
There are test ports for measuring clutch pressures and throttle B pressure, but the set up is too dangerous for my taste.
Do you have to sit next to this guy? Get away from him.
When I need to control rage, I just work until I’m too tired to care about anything. Find an acceptable outlet to expend energy, smash rock with a hammer, chop wood with an axe, or rip parts out of cars at the junk yard with all of your best tools.
– Jeff
You don’t have to worry about self-driving cars, because that would transfer liability to the manufacturer.
Research: Try Google Scholar for papers on the most recent research on your topic. Narrow your focus to only one part of computer management of automobiles, such as the control network used (i.e. compare CAN vs. FlexRay).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FlexRay
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Controller_area_network
http://www.iestcfa.org/presentations/wfcs2006/WFCS2006_FlexRay_v2b-1.pdf
some papers are subscriber based ($$$$). PM me if you can’t open it.
You said you checked tires for out of round. How about direction? Some tire treads are designed for one direction only. I put a tire on backwards, and got the most god awful vibration. It was news to me that some tires are directional.
If the alternator is supplying 14 volts and the battery supplies 12.5 volts to the same electrical system, then the battery becomes a load to the alternator. Disconnecting the battery from the system while the alternator is working, could be like unhitching the horse from the wagon. Any transients from this action are probably suppressed by the regulator. It’s hard to say what the affect would be without putting an oscilloscope or waveform analyzer on the system and also looking at what transients the electronics can tolerate.
I have to agree with Twiggy on this one. Something above 12.5 volts is working for me. And Balon, take it to the autoparts store where the tests are designed for the alternator. And Eric, today’s electronics are running on microwatts, forcing them to use 3.3 volts and lower. Electrostatic discharge (ESD) was the number one killer for the quad NAND gate drivers I used to test for AC Delco. Your own body capacitance is enough to drop 5000 volts on a device gate and destroy it.
Jeff
Quoted From spelunkerd:
This is the main barrier to diagnostic access for the DIY enthusiast. I can’t afford to buy what I would like, and what I can afford may be obsolete in a couple of years. It would be great to have a tool that worked across platforms, that could turn devices in the vehicle on and off to test them from within, and to show real time sensor data. Alas, my eyes are bigger than my wallet, so it’s a simple OBD scanner for now. Maybe one day….
The software may change a lot, but not the communication protocol. I think there are three types across all automotive manufacturers. There might be variants of the three protocols, but you can still talk to your car. Texas Instruments and Microchip both have chips for automotive embedded systems.
http://www.rpi.edu/dept/ecse/mps/sloa101.pdf
– Jeff
The bigger your forum gets, the more likely you will need moderators. One forum I’m on has a moderator for every category, while another has none (because it is a chronological string of topics, doomed to repeat over and over). Both forums manage an annual fund raiser because bandwidth is expensive. Ganoksin holds a raffle for about $15,000 in tools. In the beginning, there was only one winner. Now it’s split up among three winners. Tickets are $40 each, but odds are pretty good because there are only about 10,000 subscribers.
😉
Jeff
Quoted From Shaun_300:
Just put a jack under the control arm to put some pressure on the joint to hold it solid while you tighten the nut.
Thank you!
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I sometimes take a pry bar and use it to ‘wedge’ the joint into the bore of the knuckle in order to hold it while I tighten it. If you using hand tools you may need someone to hold the bar while you tighten the nut.
What are you prying against? Can I assume that the bottom of the pry bar is on the top of the ball joint?