[Hikaru]

[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=78932]…

looks like you have covered all the bases but i would try pulling codes and see what they say, they may lead you in more of the right direction…[/quote]

I haven’t check for code for this problem
but
About 2 year ago i try to diagnose the car by engine check because of hesitation and low torque
(jumper TE1 – E1 if im not mistaken)
it resolve 42 (4 blink and 2 blink in a row)
42 error code possibility:
– indicate Knock Sensor (Soluna didn’t have this sensor)
– indicate MAF/MAP sensor (Soluna didn’t have MAF but have a MAP, I check and OK)
– indicate IIA problem (Distributor Assy) (Check this one take apart to clean it up and check every part and reassembled I didn’t find any problem just very small crack at the coil cassing)
– indicate ECU problem (physically not damage, i don’t know about he firmware)

than I found out that leaking vacuum pipe PCV and MAP pipe, and the problem solve for the hesitation and torque and also the check engine blink for normal.
but now it become more economically non friendly
and 1 more problem, now the engine have 3 stage rpm instead of 2 stage when warming up.
normally warming at 1500 rpm than go to 850 rpm when idle
now warming at 1200rpm and increase slowly to 1500 rpm than go to 1000 rpm idle after about 2 minutes go to 900 rpm and constant at 900 rpm idle i don’t know if this related to the very poor fuel economic.

thanks

[Hikaru]

[quote=”Raistian77″ post=78898]It is true that a lean mixture burns much hotter than a rich mixture.

What is the issue you are having?[/quote]

I have problem with fuel economic
its to poor, about 6 km per liter or 14.1129 mpg

my car 1500cc toyota soluna 2000 AT (AL50) 5A-FE
when the emission (AFR test) test it mark 0.99 in lambda (still getting the 1:6 (its about 1:12 before))
now i want to try more leaner AFR maybe about 1,2 or 1,4 in lambda

or any other suggestions for my problem

what i have try
1. Tune up and carbon clean
2. Check TPS
3. Check MAP sensor
4. Check ISC (Cleaning inner part)
5. Check for vacuum leak
6. Check O2 sensor (this one im not sure, 0 V at off, and 13,xx V at ACC)

thanks

[Hikaru]

[quote=”Raistian77″ post=78898]It is true that a lean mixture burns much hotter than a rich mixture.

What is the issue you are having?[/quote]

I have problem with fuel economic
its to poor, about 6 km per liter or 14.1129 mpg

my car 1500cc toyota soluna 2000 AT (AL50) 5A-FE
when the emission (AFR test) test it mark 0.99 in lambda (still getting the 1:6 (its about 1:12 before))
now i want to try more leaner AFR maybe about 1,2 or 1,4 in lambda

or any other suggestions for my problem

what i have try
1. Tune up and carbon clean
2. Check TPS
3. Check MAP sensor
4. Check ISC (Cleaning inner part)
5. Check for vacuum leak
6. Check O2 sensor (this one im not sure, 0 V at off, and 13,xx V at ACC)

thanks

[Hikaru]

It’s exactly the same with my automatic transmission
same in every part.
mine are toyota soluna.
very helpful.

thanks

[Hikaru]

It’s exactly the same with my automatic transmission
same in every part.
mine are toyota soluna.
very helpful.

thanks

[Hikaru]

Have you try to clean the fuel sensor, the one has the buoy in your gas tank, open it carefully, you will see some kind of coils resistor, try to clean the coil with very smooth sand paper and see there is no damage on it, and clean the leaver also, and depress until it touch the coil, hook the terminal with your ohm meter and try to move the leveler (buoy) if you see the resistant change fast (fast but not erratic) as you move the buoy, than its all ready good, try to put it back and test the gauge.
hope solve your problems ^^

cmiiw

[Hikaru]

Have you try to clean the fuel sensor, the one has the buoy in your gas tank, open it carefully, you will see some kind of coils resistor, try to clean the coil with very smooth sand paper and see there is no damage on it, and clean the leaver also, and depress until it touch the coil, hook the terminal with your ohm meter and try to move the leveler (buoy) if you see the resistant change fast (fast but not erratic) as you move the buoy, than its all ready good, try to put it back and test the gauge.
hope solve your problems ^^

cmiiw

[Hikaru]

Have you try to tight the bolt/screw at your emergency brake handle (the one in cabin), its works great, just spin the bolt/screw until it make brake on it’s own, than spin it backward a little just to loose the brake, and try your emergency brake.

[Hikaru]

Have you try to tight the bolt/screw at your emergency brake handle (the one in cabin), its works great, just spin the bolt/screw until it make brake on it’s own, than spin it backward a little just to loose the brake, and try your emergency brake.

[Hikaru]

Try to remove the battery from your car, or at lease remove all the connector from the positive and the negative.
Mark the voltage with voltmeter, and try mark it again with volt meter in another day, is it drain fast or drain very slow, if in a day you have heavy drain in voltage, it’s sure that you have bad cell on your battery. if it’s a dry cell, you have to replace it, if acid battery you can flush the acid and purr new acid in it, and try to charge it again, and retest, if the problem occur, you can replace the cell at your battery repair, or buy new battery.

if you have good battery, try to series your battery with amp meter
[mass] —- (-) (+)—-(Amp Meter (min 10 Amp setting)—Load(car system), do not put any electrical load, just hook your amp meter as it the car in off position, and mark the amp drain, if you have heave drain, try to do this on suspected load, for example groundings, alarm, central lock, audio hu, power amp, lighting but don’t turn on the device. do that until you have the culprit.

cmiiw

[Hikaru]

Try to remove the battery from your car, or at lease remove all the connector from the positive and the negative.
Mark the voltage with voltmeter, and try mark it again with volt meter in another day, is it drain fast or drain very slow, if in a day you have heavy drain in voltage, it’s sure that you have bad cell on your battery. if it’s a dry cell, you have to replace it, if acid battery you can flush the acid and purr new acid in it, and try to charge it again, and retest, if the problem occur, you can replace the cell at your battery repair, or buy new battery.

if you have good battery, try to series your battery with amp meter
[mass] —- (-) (+)—-(Amp Meter (min 10 Amp setting)—Load(car system), do not put any electrical load, just hook your amp meter as it the car in off position, and mark the amp drain, if you have heave drain, try to do this on suspected load, for example groundings, alarm, central lock, audio hu, power amp, lighting but don’t turn on the device. do that until you have the culprit.

cmiiw

[Hikaru]

I think you have Idle Speed Control Valve problems, because when I see, it’s drop when you put the gear on D
cmiiw

[Hikaru]

I think you have Idle Speed Control Valve problems, because when I see, it’s drop when you put the gear on D
cmiiw

[Hikaru]

1. I don’t have a corolla
but I have a Toyota Soluna (close enough ^^)
I change the timing belt every 40KM with maximum 60KM, I’m not sure for the timing chain, may be about 100KM cmmiw.

2. For the exhaust, I use sand paper to remove the rust, and polish it again with some kind of compound to make it shine again ^^, but if it involve hard rust with hole, perhaps you can fix the hole with plate or replace the exhaust.

3. I never use engine treatment..sorry ^^

[Hikaru]

1. I don’t have a corolla
but I have a Toyota Soluna (close enough ^^)
I change the timing belt every 40KM with maximum 60KM, I’m not sure for the timing chain, may be about 100KM cmmiw.

2. For the exhaust, I use sand paper to remove the rust, and polish it again with some kind of compound to make it shine again ^^, but if it involve hard rust with hole, perhaps you can fix the hole with plate or replace the exhaust.

3. I never use engine treatment..sorry ^^

[Author]

Replies