[Hikaru]

Thanks for the link
So I can use Dexron VI to replace Dexron III

[Hikaru]

Thanks for the link
So I can use Dexron VI to replace Dexron III

[Hikaru]

Oh, my engine does not have the device, the hose direct connect to the manifold.
ok then I’ll try to replace the FPR (very expensive tinny device (>_<) )
btw do you know how to test it without tools?
i thinking to redirect the return hose to a bottle so i can see any return gas (if i see gas in the bottle then the FPR still working, if not, FPR fail, can it be done (safely i mean)?

[Hikaru]

Oh, my engine does not have the device, the hose direct connect to the manifold.
ok then I’ll try to replace the FPR (very expensive tinny device (>_<) )
btw do you know how to test it without tools?
i thinking to redirect the return hose to a bottle so i can see any return gas (if i see gas in the bottle then the FPR still working, if not, FPR fail, can it be done (safely i mean)?

[Hikaru]

The engine work’s fine with the non original fuel pump, looks like it have more power.
and yes that’s what i feel, the mix felt more richer, and i don’t have vacuum gauge to test it.
is there any chance the FPR broken even it not leaking from the vacuum hose? (eg : not open even it had vacuum)
my FPR is vacuum base, not the electrical solenoid.

[Hikaru]

The engine work’s fine with the non original fuel pump, looks like it have more power.
and yes that’s what i feel, the mix felt more richer, and i don’t have vacuum gauge to test it.
is there any chance the FPR broken even it not leaking from the vacuum hose? (eg : not open even it had vacuum)
my FPR is vacuum base, not the electrical solenoid.

[Hikaru]

Yes it has, and I “think” it still working
is the FPR, 1 of many suspect?
what’s the symptom if FPR broken
I already check it by remove the hose from intake plenum/manifold and not smelling any gas from it, so i think it not leak, or is there any more test to do with it? (i don’t have vacuum tools)

thanks

[Hikaru]

Yes it has, and I “think” it still working
is the FPR, 1 of many suspect?
what’s the symptom if FPR broken
I already check it by remove the hose from intake plenum/manifold and not smelling any gas from it, so i think it not leak, or is there any more test to do with it? (i don’t have vacuum tools)

thanks

[Hikaru]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=116457]The above video should work well for you then. Just make sure the engine is at operating temperature and that you’re on a level surface. Also know that the between the low and high marks is 1/2 quart normally, not a full quart. Also, overfilling is just as bad or worse than under filling. If it’s between the min/max line I’d leave it alone.[/quote]

Ok, thanks for the info
I have to start check the oil in idle/park and running engine from now , hihihihi

I usually check it at the morning without starting the engine 😀
same as i check the engine oil, before starting the engine.

[Hikaru]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=116457]The above video should work well for you then. Just make sure the engine is at operating temperature and that you’re on a level surface. Also know that the between the low and high marks is 1/2 quart normally, not a full quart. Also, overfilling is just as bad or worse than under filling. If it’s between the min/max line I’d leave it alone.[/quote]

Ok, thanks for the info
I have to start check the oil in idle/park and running engine from now , hihihihi

I usually check it at the morning without starting the engine 😀
same as i check the engine oil, before starting the engine.

[Hikaru]

Hi ^^, Sorry for my late response,

My car = Toyota Soluna GLi (AL-50)
Engine = 5A-FE
Automatic transmission
Production year = 2000
I adopt this car about 4 years ago, without manual book

[Hikaru]

Hi ^^, Sorry for my late response,

My car = Toyota Soluna GLi (AL-50)
Engine = 5A-FE
Automatic transmission
Production year = 2000
I adopt this car about 4 years ago, without manual book

[Hikaru]

Have you check the ignition coil and capacitor or the cdi?
I was have the same problem, idle and shut when I put the gas, I replace the distributor (coil, cdi and capacitor), it runs fine until now.

[Hikaru]

Have you check the ignition coil and capacitor or the cdi?
I was have the same problem, idle and shut when I put the gas, I replace the distributor (coil, cdi and capacitor), it runs fine until now.

[Hikaru]

[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=78932]…

looks like you have covered all the bases but i would try pulling codes and see what they say, they may lead you in more of the right direction…[/quote]

I haven’t check for code for this problem
but
About 2 year ago i try to diagnose the car by engine check because of hesitation and low torque
(jumper TE1 – E1 if im not mistaken)
it resolve 42 (4 blink and 2 blink in a row)
42 error code possibility:
– indicate Knock Sensor (Soluna didn’t have this sensor)
– indicate MAF/MAP sensor (Soluna didn’t have MAF but have a MAP, I check and OK)
– indicate IIA problem (Distributor Assy) (Check this one take apart to clean it up and check every part and reassembled I didn’t find any problem just very small crack at the coil cassing)
– indicate ECU problem (physically not damage, i don’t know about he firmware)

than I found out that leaking vacuum pipe PCV and MAP pipe, and the problem solve for the hesitation and torque and also the check engine blink for normal.
but now it become more economically non friendly
and 1 more problem, now the engine have 3 stage rpm instead of 2 stage when warming up.
normally warming at 1500 rpm than go to 850 rpm when idle
now warming at 1200rpm and increase slowly to 1500 rpm than go to 1000 rpm idle after about 2 minutes go to 900 rpm and constant at 900 rpm idle i don’t know if this related to the very poor fuel economic.

thanks

[Author]

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