Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Is the trickle charger necessary if I plan to run the car every week for an hour or so? I’d rather not invest in a piece of equipment I’m only going to use once.
The Fuel pump has not been removed or replaced that I’m aware of.
We did buy it Certified Pre-Owned at 12,000 miles, so unless it was replaced in that first year, it should still be the original part.
Next time the code comes on, shall I ask (demand?) they check the fuel lines as a potential cause of the 456?
Checked that link out, checked the fuse – completely blown out.
Will replace the fuse and test from there. Thanks!
Checked that link out, checked the fuse – completely blown out.
Will replace the fuse and test from there. Thanks!
I finally managed to carve out some time to get the hose replaced, and after a blissfully straightforward replacement, the caliper seems to be operating properly now. I have yet to give it a good workout yet, and I suspect I may have warped the rotor in the meantime, but for now, at least the primary problem has been fixed.
I also did a “poor man’s” brake fluid change with the turkey baster and boy am I glad I did – I must have been way overdue for new fluid based on the color of the stuff I took out of the master cylinder.
Thanks for the help Eric and everybody else!
I finally managed to carve out some time to get the hose replaced, and after a blissfully straightforward replacement, the caliper seems to be operating properly now. I have yet to give it a good workout yet, and I suspect I may have warped the rotor in the meantime, but for now, at least the primary problem has been fixed.
I also did a “poor man’s” brake fluid change with the turkey baster and boy am I glad I did – I must have been way overdue for new fluid based on the color of the stuff I took out of the master cylinder.
Thanks for the help Eric and everybody else!
I finally managed to get the car up and do some investigation today, and I’ve got some results that I think are pretty definitive.
First, a little background: I’ve noticed recently a substantial delay in the car actually starting to move under idle when letting off the brake from a full stop. This is after having replaced a caliper on the front driver’s side due to a badly leaking piston dust boot on the factory-original caliper that was discovered while changing brake pads and rotors.
There has also been a burning smell coming from the driver’s side brakes, and at one point I noticed tiny wisps of smoke emitting from around the pads after some highway driving. An infrared thermometer read the driver’s side rotor as twice as hot as the passenger side. Investigating, I found what I thought were melted dust boots on the brand new caliper and a ton of sooty residue all over the assembly. That’s when I came to this forum.
Following Eric’s advice, I checked for hose malfunction by pumping the brakes 5-6 times then cracking the bleeder valve. A small squirt of brake fluid fired out roughly 1″ from the fitting opening. I closed the valve and tried again, and this time a substantial dribble came out. Unsure if this was normal or abnormal, I decided to try the other, non-suspect caliper.
When I cracked THAT caliper’s bleeder valve, nothing came out – not a drop. After trying 3 times, I unscrewed the bleeder valve completely to make sure there was brake fluid in there, and sure enough there was. So now I think Eric’s instincts were right, and my caliper is fine, but my hose needs replacement.
I also took a good look at the boots with better light and I now don’t think the they’ve melted at all. They must be a different style that have a small lip that sits above the caliper body; I was confused because my factory calipers have boots that fully retract flush with the piston. I imagine the smell is probably my brand-new (admittedly cheap) brake pads overheating against the rotor due to the non-retracting pistons.
So, unless anybody sees some major flaw in my reasoning, I think my next step is replacing the brake line on the driver’s side.
Thanks for all your help, and I’ll let you know how it goes!
I finally managed to get the car up and do some investigation today, and I’ve got some results that I think are pretty definitive.
First, a little background: I’ve noticed recently a substantial delay in the car actually starting to move under idle when letting off the brake from a full stop. This is after having replaced a caliper on the front driver’s side due to a badly leaking piston dust boot on the factory-original caliper that was discovered while changing brake pads and rotors.
There has also been a burning smell coming from the driver’s side brakes, and at one point I noticed tiny wisps of smoke emitting from around the pads after some highway driving. An infrared thermometer read the driver’s side rotor as twice as hot as the passenger side. Investigating, I found what I thought were melted dust boots on the brand new caliper and a ton of sooty residue all over the assembly. That’s when I came to this forum.
Following Eric’s advice, I checked for hose malfunction by pumping the brakes 5-6 times then cracking the bleeder valve. A small squirt of brake fluid fired out roughly 1″ from the fitting opening. I closed the valve and tried again, and this time a substantial dribble came out. Unsure if this was normal or abnormal, I decided to try the other, non-suspect caliper.
When I cracked THAT caliper’s bleeder valve, nothing came out – not a drop. After trying 3 times, I unscrewed the bleeder valve completely to make sure there was brake fluid in there, and sure enough there was. So now I think Eric’s instincts were right, and my caliper is fine, but my hose needs replacement.
I also took a good look at the boots with better light and I now don’t think the they’ve melted at all. They must be a different style that have a small lip that sits above the caliper body; I was confused because my factory calipers have boots that fully retract flush with the piston. I imagine the smell is probably my brand-new (admittedly cheap) brake pads overheating against the rotor due to the non-retracting pistons.
So, unless anybody sees some major flaw in my reasoning, I think my next step is replacing the brake line on the driver’s side.
Thanks for all your help, and I’ll let you know how it goes!
Thanks for the info – I’ve done a bit of research and ordered what I think are the correct hoses, based on VIN. Any suggestions on how to seal off the brake line when I do the swap?
Thanks for the info – I’ve done a bit of research and ordered what I think are the correct hoses, based on VIN. Any suggestions on how to seal off the brake line when I do the swap?
Normally I would’t attempt the rebuild, but this caliper is literally less than a month old. The only thing wrong with it is the dust boots (assuming it’s the brake lines causing the trouble).
I’m going to attempt the rebuild and if it fails, well, the refurbishment company will get the cleanest core return they’ve ever seen!
Thanks!
Normally I would’t attempt the rebuild, but this caliper is literally less than a month old. The only thing wrong with it is the dust boots (assuming it’s the brake lines causing the trouble).
I’m going to attempt the rebuild and if it fails, well, the refurbishment company will get the cleanest core return they’ve ever seen!
Thanks!
I have yet to test the brake lines, but regardless, the dust boots on that brand new caliper need to be replaced. Is there any way to do that without removing the caliper piston?
I’m wary of disassembling what is effectively a brand-new refurbished caliper for fear of screwing something up, but the smell of those melting dust boots is just awful.
Is it safe to cut/pull them out of the caliper in the short term until I can rebuild/replace the caliper?
I have yet to test the brake lines, but regardless, the dust boots on that brand new caliper need to be replaced. Is there any way to do that without removing the caliper piston?
I’m wary of disassembling what is effectively a brand-new refurbished caliper for fear of screwing something up, but the smell of those melting dust boots is just awful.
Is it safe to cut/pull them out of the caliper in the short term until I can rebuild/replace the caliper?
In investigating replacement hoses in case that turns out to be the culprit, I’ve become confused.
RockAuto offers me brake hoses with “double inverted flare cylinder ports & hose threads” and “bubble flare cylinder ports & hose threads.”
What’s the difference between these two and is it important to get the right type for my vehicle?
If it is, how do I tell which I need?
If it’s not important, is one better than the other?
Thanks for all your help!