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That might help but I’m not sure If I were up to the task for that. Anyway, I just did more test. I re-created the symptom by going reverse, stop and reverse again until the drag felt strong. I left it in N without any like of brake applied. Jacked up the rear and turned the wheels just to see if the brake is limiting them but unfortunately, maybe fortunately, both rear wheels spin freely. I also stopped the car headed up on a hill road, let go the brake and let the car roll backward, both in N and in R with the same gas and stop manner. I didn’t notice any drag in either case. I then turned the car around, headed downhill and did the test. As expected, no problem at all the first time in R and gave gas, but it dragged like hell when my foot off the paddle and stepped on it again.
Yes Kenzo, it is definitely odd. I do need to switch back to N from R in order to clear the drag then back to R and step on the gas paddle continuasly. I never had to do it a couple of times. It works every time after I “reset” it. I don’t have a flashing D4 light nor a check engine light. I have put on about 190k since I bought it new. The transmission fluid was changed about one and a half years ago by a complete flush and the level is fine.
Evil-I, your idea is also possible. Is there a way to temporarily disable the brake self-adjuster just to verify if it is the cause of this issue? I don’t know where to start looking but from the mechanical point of view, will the self-adjuster cause the lock up when the car reverse, slow down then go again?My intention was to have easier winter start up and shorter warm up time. Now I ended up with an expensive paper weight. 🙁
I guess it’s not worth to wrack the car for that. Thanks.