[shawn]

I did a little testing today
Both on the intake cam solenoid and the ehaust are the same. Key off 0.2 volts key on 8.6 volts with the engine running at idle 10.8 volts I checked the ground with a test light and its is definitely not as bright at the connectors compared to just touching the engine. Is it a grounding issue I wonder. I didn’t back probe the connection i just pulled it off for the test would that make any difference.

[shawn]

so i tried resetting the ECU last night. The battery cables are not long enough to touch with the battery in place so i used a jumper wire to short the wires together and left it shorted over night. Today i reconnected the terminals and drove it. After about 10 KM of city driving the light came back on. i had my scan tool with me and checked the codes. and there is 2 P0011
So no difference was made. Again there is no drive ability issues at all, it seems to run fine. once in a wile it stumbles a bit if your on the gas and snap the the throttle closed as if the throttle body might need cleaning. What and i do now. where should i start looking. i haven’t been able to find any wiring diagrams for it anywhere.

[shawn]

I have already read all that .
The oil is fine clean and full
I dont think the is an engine mechanical problems. The engine runs good. Starts good tons of pep. Where should I start looking . Is there anywhere to get free wiring diagrams

[shawn]

Would it have anything to do with a faulty cam position sensor

[shawn]

I have already read all that .
The oil is fine clean and full
I dont think the is an engine mechanical problems. The engine runs good. Starts good tons of pep. Where should I start looking . Is there anywhere to get free wiring diagrams

[shawn]

Problems solved well maybe not. Last night before he left work is when I red the codes and freeze frame data and I cleared the 2 codes. On his way home the check engine light was on solid and into the drive a it it started flashing a couple of times and went solid again and then shut off and he said when it shut off the truck ran fine actually as if nothing was ever wrong with it. I have no idea what to make of that I thought for sure the cop was gone and maybe the plug on cylinder 2
The truck runs good now no work done and the only thing I can think of would be the connection for the cop. Maybe loose or corroded

[shawn]

Ya I was just wondering what the chances of low fuel pressure making one cylinder have a dead miss. Or maybe both codes were caused by an ignition issue. And I going to say the truck has well I’ve 300000 km on it. I was thinking that a low fuel pressure would give a random miss fire
Thanks for the help. I’ll switch the coils and go from there

[shawn]

It was my understanding that wheels are lug or stud centric when using a tapered nut the rim centers on the stud not the hub. The studs do not touch the side on the holes in the rim and even with the correct center bore there is still a small gap (thousands of an inch) if there wasn’t a small gap it would make it impossible to remove the rim. IMO the weight of the car is not held buy the hub or the studs,its held buy the friction between the hub break rotor and the rim. the studs just supply the clamping force needed to create the friction. But i don’t know maybe my way of thinking is wrong. I also did by some poly carbonate centering rings ($9.00 with free shipping)) Once i install them will the rings come out wile i am driving there seams like there is nothing holding them in? Maybe a cheep set of junk yard hubcaps will help if the fall out they would still be under the hubcap.
Thanks for all you help everyone

[shawn]

It was my understanding that wheels are lug or stud centric when using a tapered nut the rim centers on the stud not the hub. The studs do not touch the side on the holes in the rim and even with the correct center bore there is still a small gap (thousands of an inch) if there wasn’t a small gap it would make it impossible to remove the rim. IMO the weight of the car is not held buy the hub or the studs,its held buy the friction between the hub break rotor and the rim. the studs just supply the clamping force needed to create the friction. But i don’t know maybe my way of thinking is wrong. I also did by some poly carbonate centering rings ($9.00 with free shipping)) Once i install them will the rings come out wile i am driving there seams like there is nothing holding them in? Maybe a cheep set of junk yard hubcaps will help if the fall out they would still be under the hubcap.
Thanks for all you help everyone

[shawn]

when you say it takes longer to start i assume it cranks for a longer time before it fires up.
maintenance is the key to longevity. Make sure your taking care of her and she will take care of you
Give it a tune up plugs, plug wires, fuel and air filters maybe take it out and have the injectors cleaned.
But it doesn’t sound to me that its a major problem just something to keep an eye on and remember 222 thousand miles is a lot

[shawn]

when you say it takes longer to start i assume it cranks for a longer time before it fires up.
maintenance is the key to longevity. Make sure your taking care of her and she will take care of you
Give it a tune up plugs, plug wires, fuel and air filters maybe take it out and have the injectors cleaned.
But it doesn’t sound to me that its a major problem just something to keep an eye on and remember 222 thousand miles is a lot

[shawn]

Update

Good news i got the replacement pump and it works. I embarrassed to say that it was my fault the other pump didnt work. I pulled the the non working pump off my car and when i wnt to transfer the fitting for the high pressure line to the new pump i saw that there is two groves on the fitting one with a hole in it and one for the o ring. Well somehow i put the o ring on the wrong grove and was blocking the hole. stupid me. So the power steering is back but i still have some wine to the new reman pump. hopefully it will quiet down after a few days of driving.
thanks for all your insights.

[shawn]

Update

Good news i got the replacement pump and it works. I embarrassed to say that it was my fault the other pump didnt work. I pulled the the non working pump off my car and when i wnt to transfer the fitting for the high pressure line to the new pump i saw that there is two groves on the fitting one with a hole in it and one for the o ring. Well somehow i put the o ring on the wrong grove and was blocking the hole. stupid me. So the power steering is back but i still have some wine to the new reman pump. hopefully it will quiet down after a few days of driving.
thanks for all your insights.

[shawn]

I know my pump is a varied steering pump I will try the pump cause it’s under warranty
So the one coming is free. Is there any way to test a rack or is it just replace it cause
It’s the only thing left. How much movement would you expect to see in a good working pump , car running not turning the steering wheel and then while turning the wheel ( in the fluid reservoir)
The pump I have on there now there is none unless the Car is off any thoughts

[shawn]

I know my pump is a varied steering pump I will try the pump cause it’s under warranty
So the one coming is free. Is there any way to test a rack or is it just replace it cause
It’s the only thing left. How much movement would you expect to see in a good working pump , car running not turning the steering wheel and then while turning the wheel ( in the fluid reservoir)
The pump I have on there now there is none unless the Car is off any thoughts

[Author]

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