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It’s more than likely the front rotors are warped causing your issue. But I have seen brand new drums out of the box being warped. Don”t know how many sets I’ve installed and the stupid things were worse than the old ones that were on the car!
Welcome to the forums and congrats on the first timing belt change. They can be a little tricky. All of the ones I work on at the GM dealer are DOHC so you have an extra camshaft to line up. Great idea marking the old belt and matching it up with the new one, never thought of that. That’d definitely guarantee you getting it on the right way.
Yes you have to remove the nut, like 3SheetsDiesel said, the head end of the bolt is splined. Remove the nuts and then knock the bolts out. And yes you’ll need an alignment after you install the new strut assemblies.
From reading all your posts, to me it sounds more like the strut bearings/mounts. If you hear a clunk noise when turning the wheel back and forth lock to lock, like a bung bung bung noise the strut bearings are seized, the noise is the coil spring binding then snapping free when there’s enough tension on it. The clunks could be the mount being separated. Lower control arm bushings are common to separate in these cars like said above and when you brake the control arm could come up and smack the cradle giving you the clunk when you’re braking.
The wheel bearings could cause some popping noises while driving straight down the road, but if their that bad usually they’d be howling so loud you couldn’t hear yourself think in the car. The play you think is in the inner tierod could actually be the wheel bearing being loose and not the inner tierod.
The Mastercraft Professional and Maximum series tools are very good tools for the price, bought a set of wrenches and socket set of mastercraft maximum 6 1/2 years ago when I got in the trade and still have all of them, broke a couple sockets, never broke a wrench though. Broke a couple snap on and matco wrenches… You got a good deal!
Usually if the NOx level is sky high it’s something to do with the EGR. Get it retested, if it still fails on NOx you’ll be looking at a cat like Eric said.
Yeah the spring clamps are handy and do work well when the vehicle is fairly new, but once some years of corrosion hit them they start to lose their tension and will even rot off. Especially here in Ontario where we get hard winters all the time with lots of snow, ice and cold temps. Salt is hammered on the roads here like you wouldn’t believe, I’ve replaced lower rad hose clamps on 2006 trucks because they’ve simply corroded in half.
I use tools for a living so I always buy Snap On and Matco. Still have the Mastercraft set I started out with 6 years ago, many of them still in tact. Must say no comparison to the bigger names though. Never broke a snap on ratchet, broke one matco one in half but that was mostly my fault. Went to break a wheel bearing bolt loose in a tight spot with my longer 1/4″ flex ratchet, broke the head right off, oops lol. Broke quite a few sockets, some chrome ones with the impact when i was in a rush, my dealer has never refused warranty. I guess it all depends on the dealer.
Well P0171 and 174 are fuel trim lean on both banks. Not exactly sure what the fuel pressure is supposed to be on that particular vehicle, most of the newer fuel injection systems are between 50 and 60psi. 22 sounds very low. It’s either getting too much air or not enough fuel. Check for a vacuum leak, but if the fuel pressure is supposed to be higher than that it’s probably either a bad fuel pump or restricted fuel filter.
More info would be great like johnzcarz said. The smoke sounds like there’s a leak of something somewhere. Those cars were famous for the cylinder head gaskets leaking, mainly on the left rear side of the engine when looking at it from the front. The intake gaskets also leaked on those cars. Give us a little more info and we’ll go from there.
Make sure to replace the upper plenum if you plan on fixing it. If you just change the gaskets you’ll have the same problem. The plenum itself rots out. May as well do the lower intake gaskets while you’re in there too.
All good tips, the rust and debris on the hub is the big one, that hub has to be good and clean for the rotor to sit on it flat. It is possible you got a warped rotor out of the box, happened to a buddy of mine not long ago, I had to take 0.030″ to make that sucker true.
Thanks guys, took a lot of time and screwing around with certain things. For the most part, getting the engine in and ready to run was the easy part. Installed stock V8 motor mount brackets on the frame. LS6 block is identical to the 4.8/5.3/6.0L blocks so it drops right in place. Now my battle is trying to get a starter to fit without dragging on the flywheel. I’m using a 4.8L 5-speed flywheel and clutch, can’t find a starter to fit. Not sure if the starter holes are drilled different in the aluminum block versus the cast 4.8 block or what it is. Already have the LS6 flywheel. Might say screw the 5 speed and get a T-56 6-speed manual transmission and clutch. It’s a fairly easy swap. Just need to get some 4:56 or 5:12 gears for the rear end to accomodate the 0.5:1 6th gear ratio in the T-56.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Interesting as ive never heard or seen of the yoke ‘binding’ before…..
Yup, very common for the newer GM trucks, there was actually a TSB on them I believe. The yoke won’t slip as it’s supposed to causing that clunk/noise when coming to a stop fairly quickly or accelerating.