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I came across one of Scotty’s videos last night and watched a few on his channel. Some were pretty good but like others have said they can be pretty vauge, like the clutch video and engine swap video. Basically unbolt everything and pull it out kind of thing without showing much detail on anything. Had to chuckle when I watched the Ford truck intake gasket replacement. He said it’s very important to torque them to specs and in sequence, 25lb in first and 89lb in the second pass, then he pulls the 1/2″ torque wrench with a reducer onto the 8mm socket or whatever size the puny intake bolts are. Needless to say it just showed him putting the torque wrench on 1 bolt then the frame ended in the video.
We sell BG services at work and I must say I’m pretty impressed with most of them. Coolant flush should be done every 5 years with Dexcool and 3 years with the glycol. Transmission service between 40,000 and 60,000 miles depending on the vehicle, this is a great service, unlike the conventional drop the pan and change 1/4 of the fluid in the transmission, the BG flush does it when the vehicle is running, there’s a tank with 2 sections with a bladder in the middle, new fluid is put in the machine and sits on the top portion, 1 hose hooked up to a cooler line, other hose to the radiator where the fluid enters the cooler. As it’s running the oil pump in the transmission pushes the old fluid out into the bottom portion of the tank which pushes the bladder up to put the new fluid sitting on top into the transmission. We run 12 liters through so it changes ALL of the fluid in the transmission, lines and cooler(s). Great service IMO.
The Fuel/air induction service is a pressurized tank with around 25oz of cleaner in it that sprays in the throttle body while the engine is running. Takes about 10 minutes to run through. Cleans all the carbon out everywhere the air goes into the whole engine. After it’s done you rev the engine up and there’s a big cloud of white smoke as it clears everything out. I’ve noticed a noticible difference in power in a lot of cars I’ve done this service to. There’s also 12oz of cleaner that goes in fuel tank to clean the fuel system, injectors etc.
Power steering flush is also done while the engine is running, sucking old fluid out as new fluid is being put in, turning the wheel lock to lock mid way through to get all the old stuff flushed out. We’ve only done a couple of the engine oil flush, that’s the only one I’m skeptical of.
RacerX22 you wouldn’t have to worry about the power steering flush because your car has electric power steering, as well as the transmission flush since it’s done on automatic transmissions and not manuals. It is a good idea to change your transmission fluid at the same intervals as the automatics though.
I have a little 8 gallon campbell and housefield I use at home, it was helpful when doing the engine swap in my truck! Kicked on quite often but did the job. If I was using it every weekend I’d definitely want to upgrade though. It sure hates the cold weather, it’d sputter and blow the breaker when I’d first kick it on at 20 below zero. Had to keep switching it on and off slowly to keep it turning over long enough for the oil to get flowing and run on it’s own
Glad I was able to aid in resolving your issue! At a cheap cost too I imagine to get the procedure done, if any. When a crankshaft variation learn is performed it basically recalibrates the position of the crankshaft with the camshaft. Like Eric said these two sensors are a major role in ignition and fuel timing. So that explains why the truck seems to run better. Both timings will be virtually perfect now. It takes minute variation between the two sensors to cause a P0300. Slight wear in the timing chain could cause it, or could even be a slight computer glitch. I’ve seen this happen a number of times. Even looking at misfire data when I’m diagnosing an obvious misfire on one cylinder I’ll see odd misfires on other cylinders. Usually I’ll do a crank relearn first and most of the time it’ll take care of those false ones.
Sounds like a head gasket to me, if it builds pressure fairly quickly after having the rad cap off the headgasket is probably split between the cylinder and a waterjacket pumping air into the cooling system which will cause an airlock and an overheat condition, the GM 3.1 and 3.4 engines are well known for that, they do pretty much the same thing. Also are common for leaking externally as well.
In 6 years of working at the dealership, I haven’t had to bleed the ABS system different than the conventianal brake system. I always start from the farthest wheel from the master and work my way towards the master, (R/R, L/R, R/F, L/F) Always got all my air out without doing anything else. However there is an ABS automated bleed procedure on the scanner available if needed. But if you have good a good pedal after regular bleeding, don’t worry about it.
Not sure, just paid $10 for one off the Matco truck today though. They sure do come in handy but like you said they have legs and run away! I took my cut-off wheel and made a little mark in mine today since there’s some people who lose theirs, steal yours and claim it’s there’s…
Welcome to the forums Preston! Well you don’t need anything too fancy for the basics, I see you live in Canada so keep an eye on the Canadian Tire flyers for one of those big mastercraft maximum socket sets to go on sale. Same with their wrenches. Great tools for the price and also carry a lifetime warranty.
Yes you have to remove the nut, like 3SheetsDiesel said, the head end of the bolt is splined. Remove the nuts and then knock the bolts out. And yes you’ll need an alignment after you install the new strut assemblies.
From reading all your posts, to me it sounds more like the strut bearings/mounts. If you hear a clunk noise when turning the wheel back and forth lock to lock, like a bung bung bung noise the strut bearings are seized, the noise is the coil spring binding then snapping free when there’s enough tension on it. The clunks could be the mount being separated. Lower control arm bushings are common to separate in these cars like said above and when you brake the control arm could come up and smack the cradle giving you the clunk when you’re braking.
The wheel bearings could cause some popping noises while driving straight down the road, but if their that bad usually they’d be howling so loud you couldn’t hear yourself think in the car. The play you think is in the inner tierod could actually be the wheel bearing being loose and not the inner tierod.
Welcome to the forums! Must say those ole Honda’s are built great. Seen quite a few of them up here with over 500,000km which is 300,000mi. By brother drives a 2006 Civic with almost 200,000km on it already which is around 120K miles. He drives the snot out of that poor car, hasn’t left him stranded yet!
Very common problem for the cavalier and sunfires, there’s a piece of foam that comes out of place and gets jammed in the defrost door, causing your exact issue. You’ll have to take the upper dash pad off to get the foam out. Been a while since I’ve done one but I’m pretty sure you just throw it in the garbage. Upper dash pad is fairly easy to get off, bunch of 7mm screws. 1 phillips where the vent is for the defrost, gotta go through the glovebox and you’ll see 2 gold 7mm hidden up there for the passenger airbag cover. Take the two little panels off the sides of the dash and there’s a couple in there. Think there’s two going up in front of the instrument cluster. Pull the trim panel off that goes along the edge of the bottom part of the windshield and there’s a few under it for the dashpad as well. Think there’s a couple under the knee bolsters too.
Can you actually feel the misfires and the engine running bad? It may be as simple as having a crankshaft variation relearn done. I had a 2005 2500HD in the shop this morning with a P0300, when the RPM’s got over 2700 or so it’d say about 4 cylinders were missing like crazy, couldn’t feel any misfire whatsoever. I did a crankshaft relearn on the Tech 2 and the problem was solved. Crank sensor must have been out of sync just enough to think it was misfiring when it really wasn’t. Might be something to have done before throwing parts at it. If it still is throwing codes after that, then continue diagnosing the problem.