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To be honest with you I’d probably stay where you are if you enjoy it. Not sure about other dealers than GM but warranty times suck, and with the newer powertrain warranties out now 5 years and 100K miles of rust and newer means you still get regular warranty rate, sure you can get some straight time but waste most of that running around looking for the shop foreman to issue it. I do the automatic transmissions at work and might break even on half of them, must say my boss is pretty good to compensate for me due to GM’s ridiculous warranty times for internal trans jobs these days… We get $24/hour flat rate at the dealer I work at, go inside the city add at least $6/hour more, but I don’t think I could handle working in the city even though it’s only a 25-30 miles each way.
Even if you got back into it after 2-3 years you’d have quite a bit of training to do with all the new hybrid stuff these days.
Most GM automatics take the Dexron VI, with the exception of the 2005-2009 Equinox with the 5-speed Aisin trans, Pontiac Vibe and Aveo which take the Saturn T-IV trans fluid.
Definitely get it scanned to see what corner you’re dealing with. Sounds like a possible wiring issue, shorting or opening when going over bumps. Like stated above you can check the hub for AC voltage with it unplugged and turning the wheel. I usually do a resistance check, all GM sensors are 1000-1100 ohms, also go from each pin to ground (IE rotor or spindle) to see if it’s internally shorted to ground.
Just put a jack under the control arm to put some pressure on the joint to hold it solid while you tighten the nut.
Glad I was able to aid in resolving your issue! At a cheap cost too I imagine to get the procedure done, if any. When a crankshaft variation learn is performed it basically recalibrates the position of the crankshaft with the camshaft. Like Eric said these two sensors are a major role in ignition and fuel timing. So that explains why the truck seems to run better. Both timings will be virtually perfect now. It takes minute variation between the two sensors to cause a P0300. Slight wear in the timing chain could cause it, or could even be a slight computer glitch. I’ve seen this happen a number of times. Even looking at misfire data when I’m diagnosing an obvious misfire on one cylinder I’ll see odd misfires on other cylinders. Usually I’ll do a crank relearn first and most of the time it’ll take care of those false ones.
Sounds like a head gasket to me, if it builds pressure fairly quickly after having the rad cap off the headgasket is probably split between the cylinder and a waterjacket pumping air into the cooling system which will cause an airlock and an overheat condition, the GM 3.1 and 3.4 engines are well known for that, they do pretty much the same thing. Also are common for leaking externally as well.
Sounds like a head gasket to me, if it builds pressure fairly quickly after having the rad cap off the headgasket is probably split between the cylinder and a waterjacket pumping air into the cooling system which will cause an airlock and an overheat condition, the GM 3.1 and 3.4 engines are well known for that, they do pretty much the same thing. Also are common for leaking externally as well.
Yeah could be a loose connection or terminal at the connector for the fuel pump. I’ve also saw the inline connector on the near the R/R tire that goes up to the sending unit corrode. I’d pull that off and check for corrosion. Next time it does it get someone to crank it and give the bottom of the tank a few swats with a soft hammer and see if it fires up, if it does you may have a faulty pump.
My first car was a 2003 Cavalier 2-door 5 speed with the good ole 2.2 Ecotec, bought it with about 22,000 miles and drive it til it had around 65,000 miles, not a single problem with it but the truck I own now got traded in at work and I had to have it. Hated to see the Cavy go, still miss blowing the doors off all the rice rockets in town. Had a lot of fun with that, drove it out to Wisconsin twice, 40mpg running high test gas and driving 70-80 the whole way. Man that little car could scoot for a Cavalier.
I agree with Eric, sounds like more of a starter issue. Keep a hammer handy in your car, next time it happens get someone to hold the key in the “START” position and give the starter a couple taps with the hammer, if it fires up you found your problem. You can also check for power at the S terminal and it’ll give you the same answer.
Cool! Fun looking project. That should be a quick little car when it’s all done. Just did a swap from a 4.3 V6 to a 5.7 LS6 V8 in my 2000 Silverado. Long but fun project, still ironing out all the little issues with it, but I have had it running. Good luck with the rest of the project man!
Good luck guys! Do you have to renew your certifications in the States by writing tests? Here in Canada if we pass the big exam we have it for life as long as we renew every 3 years, all we have to do is pay the $60 fee and we get a new 3 year sticker for our certificate. We only have one exam to get our licence, I think it was 125 multiple choice questions, all different categories, engines, transmissions, suspension etc. I managed to get 87% on my first try. I think we needed 70 to pass, you got your provincial certification which means you’re only licenced in the province you reside in, if you moved provinces you’d need to rewrite in that province to be certified. Over 80% and you got “Red Seal Certification” which means you’re certified in all of Canada with the exception of Quebec, they have different regulations than the rest of the country for some stupid reason…