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Wow that’s quite the bill! Most expensive one I did was an engine change in a 2005 Cadillac CTS-V, R&R engine, replaced clutch, rear diff bushing, and wheel alignment, the bill was $16,000. That’s actually the car I got the engine for my truck out of. Did a full rebuild plus a big cam and other upgrades on it, pulled the 4.3L V6 out and dropped in the built LS6 with the factory 5 speed. It’s a sleeper for sure, fun truck to have for a daily driver.
Wow that’s quite the bill! Most expensive one I did was an engine change in a 2005 Cadillac CTS-V, R&R engine, replaced clutch, rear diff bushing, and wheel alignment, the bill was $16,000. That’s actually the car I got the engine for my truck out of. Did a full rebuild plus a big cam and other upgrades on it, pulled the 4.3L V6 out and dropped in the built LS6 with the factory 5 speed. It’s a sleeper for sure, fun truck to have for a daily driver.
I need to do some work on my truck. Right front hub needs to be replaced along with the front brakes. Both front O2 sensors are dead, so I’m currently running it in open loop with no MAF. Left rear axle seal is leaking, need to replace that along with the rear rotors and backing plates. Park brake cables are seized. Body needs done, rocker panels are almost obsolete on it. Hood needs to be replaced. God bless our salty roads here in Canada in the winter!!
Oh well its safe, looks good from far but far from good. I drive it around 55 miles per day at 80mph+ down the freeway. As long as it goes fast and can get me there and back in one piece I don’t really care about the cosmetics. If all goes as planned I will take it off the road for the winter, get something to drive over the winter and have it showroom condition when I put it back on the road in the spring.
I need to do some work on my truck. Right front hub needs to be replaced along with the front brakes. Both front O2 sensors are dead, so I’m currently running it in open loop with no MAF. Left rear axle seal is leaking, need to replace that along with the rear rotors and backing plates. Park brake cables are seized. Body needs done, rocker panels are almost obsolete on it. Hood needs to be replaced. God bless our salty roads here in Canada in the winter!!
Oh well its safe, looks good from far but far from good. I drive it around 55 miles per day at 80mph+ down the freeway. As long as it goes fast and can get me there and back in one piece I don’t really care about the cosmetics. If all goes as planned I will take it off the road for the winter, get something to drive over the winter and have it showroom condition when I put it back on the road in the spring.
I was a GM technician for 8 years and left in April for many reasons. Dealership politics were driving me crazy. Not getting paid for things, especially warranty!! Left and went to the marine/recreational vehicle industry, best move I ever made.
I was a GM technician for 8 years and left in April for many reasons. Dealership politics were driving me crazy. Not getting paid for things, especially warranty!! Left and went to the marine/recreational vehicle industry, best move I ever made.
Knock sensors are fairly common on these. I recommend changing the two knock sensors and the harness to be safe, as stated above the intake manifold has to come off. Not a real hard job by any means. One tool you may not have is the fuel line disconnect tool. Yours being a 2000 you’ll need both the 5/16″ and 3/8″ since it has the return style fuel system.
Knock sensors are fairly common on these. I recommend changing the two knock sensors and the harness to be safe, as stated above the intake manifold has to come off. Not a real hard job by any means. One tool you may not have is the fuel line disconnect tool. Yours being a 2000 you’ll need both the 5/16″ and 3/8″ since it has the return style fuel system.