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I’d say it’s the thermostat as well. As to who you take it to? Whoever you trust the most and does good work.
If the wheels spin opposite directions you have an open differential. You may have to have the engine running to test, or at least the key on so the solenoid gets power.
Probly have a limiter. Speed sensors measures how fast your moving over land not how many rpm’s the engine is doing
Depends on the condition of the engine. New is always better, most times. But agreed with other. Not really necessary unless she fouls them up quick.
It’s compensating for too much air. Your o2 is reading very lean. Make sure your not getting unwanted air. Especially between maf and intake. Vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks before o2’s. Unplug the maf while it’s running and see if you get a change. Is there black smoke out the rear? How’s the egr?
You should get at least dimming lights when trying to crank. Is the boosting vehicle running? This send extra voltage through the system although not even 2 volts. It may just be enough to kick something. Could be the solenoid.
The long term is stored in memory and gets updated by the short term. You won’t get a light til long-term is about 25%.
The upstream sensor is reading normal but your downstream is reading slightly rich above .7 volts? The downstream should be the catalyst one and it should ready steady. And will not have fuel trims. Effincency maybe. Your upstream should be changing.
What’s the LTFT at?
Sure sounds like on of the pullies. Best advice I have is to remove the belt and feel each one by hand. Or maybe a quick spray of some lubricant on each til the noise disappears. Clean engine by the way