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I think it’s best to leave the battery connected. Do all the steps to get the catalyst test. I may be wrong but I think it tests in the order it does leading up to the catalyst test, like if a step before it fails, it won’t go to the next test. Unsure of that idle thing you mention in step 3, I’m not seeing it.
Need to know the abs codes to really help. A description of what it’s doing or not doing other than the light. How are the brakes?
This is for an accord. Not sure how close it is.
Here is a typical Honda Accord drive cycle. Driving your Honda Accord in the manner below should make the required Emission Monitors “Ready”. Before you start the Drive Cycle make sure your Honda Accord’s fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4, otherwise the EVAP test won’t run. Make sure to obey all traffic laws while performing the drive cycle.1. Begin by idling the engine while 2 1/2 minutes. Next idle for another 2 1/2 minutes with the A/C compressor and rear defroster on and while the transmission is in Drive (D); only of automatic transmission. This part of the drive cycle checks the oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge system.
2. Turn the A/C compressor off and rear window defroster off and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and EVAP canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for 3 minutes. The computer will now be testing the EGR system, air injection pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch). Once again the computer system will check EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system will look for misfires, fuel trim and EVAP purge.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for 5 minutes. Catalytic converter efficiency, EGR flow, ignition misfire, fuel trim, EVAP system and oxygen sensors operation will now be checked.
7. Decelerate to a stop without braking (or depressing clutch). The OBDII system will complete the drive cycle at this point.
We recommend completing this drive cycle at least twice in order to insure all required parameters have been met.
Not sure about Hondas but test won’t run on a full tank. It something like 15-85% fuel level that’s required. I’ll search around and see what I find.
Check to see that the relay is working and there is 12v present at the relay contacts. If you jump the relay and the fans come on your relay may not be getting the signal to turn on. From there I’d check your temp sensor
The engine won’t heat up much at all since the coolant will be flowing and getting cooled as well. The thermostat is closed until the engine reaches the units stated range of temperature. Then opens to allow coolant to flow and be cooled. No engine heat and no cabin heat, points to a stuck open thermostat.
You wouldn’t be laying on your back. But there is lots of bending and wierd positions. I have a bad back as well due to an injury. You won’t need many tools. Cheap sockets, wrenches and angles needle nose for those spring clamps.
[quote=”mbill002″ post=163206]Sorry, I forgot to mention this happens only when I’m accelerating. So, I am assuming its not the wheel bearing.[/quote]
You accelerate getting off the freeway? Your first post makes it sound like a bearing. Your 2nd post contradicts your first. But maybe your cv’s while under load