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Do u have the owners manual? I find most times the fuses are listed better in there. And the trailers lights come on with your park lights/running lights?
[quote=”KerbDragonRider” post=115029]When pure antifreeze is used the boiling point is 150c ish the freeze point is only -10c
As you add water strangely the freezing point lowers and so does the boiling point.
There comes a point where the antifreeze takes on the properties of water if you dilute it too much, I think off the top of my head 60% antifreeze 40% water is the optimum solution.
It’s been a while since I read it but I found it weird and interesting so I remembered it. That’s why you should always dilute antifreeze.
Kerb[/quote]
Try testing pure antifreeze with a tester, you will find the freezing point to top the scale, it then drops as water is added, diluting the mixture.
Any fuses in the interior of the truck trailer related? Or a fuse called tow?
To me it sounds like the rack. Internal seals could be leaking.
Just clearing the code erases the pcm’s memory. It’s not a fix. If it’s intermittent it may take awhile to reset that code.
Is the axel nut torqued down on that side? A little clicking play like that on the axel will be multiplied many times under load.
See if this logic works. I think your hubby is getting battery voltage off the main wire to the starter. And he is simply using a screwdriver or such to jump battery voltage to the solenoid wire and the engine then cranks?
[quote=”Notnotjose” post=166126]Decided to have a look see at the car again. The engine was cold coolant was cold and everything was working great. The car seemed to have fixed itself. But when the car got hot the problems started coming little by little I realized that the engine coolant temperature sensor had to be the problem now. Because when it was cold I was able to connect everything up and the car was great working good as new but when the engine got hot the problems started coming I tried to disconnect the sensor harness and the problem got to a point the car wanted to die hooked it back up and the car tried to maintain itself but struggled I disconnected the hoses again and the car stabilized sort of. Still struggling but it was better I think the sensor could be the problem. What do you guys think?[/quote]
If you unplugged the ect sensor and it started running worse then chances are that sensor is working. You need to see what the o2 sensors are seeing once it goes into closed loop.
[quote=”Timothy S” post=166214]Buzzing probably means arcing, either inside the relay, or at the terminals under it. Is the relay box melting underneath the relay? Might need to clean the connections and possibly receipt or solder the wires connecting to the relay receptacle. Check for high resistance on the relay, or measurable voltage drop on either side of the relay in the circuit.
If none of this checks out, the control voltage to the relay might be weak or intermittent, causing it to switch on and off quickly. Might still do a wiring issue.[/quote]Agreed. Relays will buzz if they don’t get the full control voltage they need
Your alternator is going, hense the battery light. But do make sure all connections are tight first
Owned 2 1999 grand am’s. 3.4L for both. Those vehicles are just disposable units. They have many common failures and they do fail. Just junk them and replace lol
Check the weep hole on the water pump for signs of leakage
Ohms is also continuity. You want to be close to 0 ohms on those cables which is good continuity
Sounds like you have an instrument cluster problem as the speed sensor does sound as it’s operating the speedo fine
Yes a picture would help for sure. Could even be the oil pressure switch/sender
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