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OK that means you have pressure and since the lower is cooler, your rad is functioning. I would take a look at the temp sending unit for the gauge. There is a separate one for the ecm
[quote=”college man” post=172680]The lugs were either over tightened or cross threaded. see if this helps.
Lugs made for steel rims used on aluminum rims is also a factor as they become loose. But for sure if they are stripped or over tightened ruining the threads, the wheels will loosen of and will start breaking studs
Sounds like a gauge issue. The laser temperature tester is a good idea to try. Feel both hoses, the lower hose should be noticably cooler by feel, or vice versa. Squeeze the top hose while running, you should feel the pressure. But if your hose is soft(haha) I would be careful about squeezing it. Does the gauge show hot when the engine is cold?
Agreed with college. Make sure the choke is opening all the way up
There is no cable on a hydraulic system. Could be either the slave, master, throwout bearing or pressure plate. You will unfortunately have to get in there for inspection.
If you followed the directions to replace the key fob and no luck it maybe the receiving end. Start with checking all fuses.
Please don’t use the donut to test a vehicle, especially at 65+ miles/hr. If the tires do show bad, replace them of the same size or what the manufacture has listed
Check the fuel pressure and also the fuel regulator. You can pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and see if there is fuel in the hose. Also try running the engine with that vacuum line disconnected and plugged to see if there is an immediate difference
If you goto uhaul and get a 14486 wiring kit. It is an easy splice in wiring kit. That’s where I get my wiring from. Cheap and your back on the road
Check for vacuum leaks. And you may have knocked some dirt into the IAC while cleaning. Try removing IAC and cleaning ports
Are the relays clicking? It maybe as to just run new wires right from your lights to the trailer connector. It the connector a 4 flat or 7 round?
It may be the ignition switch itself since it did originally just die on you and now won’t fire with the key on and jumping starter solenoid to crank engine
See if this attachment helps
Attachments:OK if part of the lights work it’s not a grounding issue. Did you probe every fuse while they are in place? You should have fuses such as trl lft turn or like. Make sure you have the signal on while testing the fuse
Could be your timing belt, listen around in that area. Heat up the engine, remove serp belt and temporarily run the engine, see if the squeak is there.
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