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water is by far the safest way. I use Carb cleaner myself. you will never find a can of WD40 in my shop. after finding how useless the stuff is, and the crap it leaves behind, its a dirt magnet, and not many use it as for what the crap is actually made for. Water Displacing. the last and really only thing I found WD40 good for, is making a ring of fire around spiders. its amusing and it gets rid of that crap. maybe you can put it to somewhat of a use for your exhaust flames?
water is by far the safest way. I use Carb cleaner myself. you will never find a can of WD40 in my shop. after finding how useless the stuff is, and the crap it leaves behind, its a dirt magnet, and not many use it as for what the crap is actually made for. Water Displacing. the last and really only thing I found WD40 good for, is making a ring of fire around spiders. its amusing and it gets rid of that crap. maybe you can put it to somewhat of a use for your exhaust flames?
how about just torquing them to spec? I find the one that are hard to come off were most likely put on with the impact and never actually torqued. all I do is make sure the studs are clean and tighten the wheel properly. but I suppose that alot of these factory supplied tire removal tools were not made with leverage in mind. you don’t see tire irons much anymore. now you get this little baby handle, that’s used to remove a hub cap, turn the nut on the little baby scissor jack, and then have no hope of loosening anything. fun times
how about just torquing them to spec? I find the one that are hard to come off were most likely put on with the impact and never actually torqued. all I do is make sure the studs are clean and tighten the wheel properly. but I suppose that alot of these factory supplied tire removal tools were not made with leverage in mind. you don’t see tire irons much anymore. now you get this little baby handle, that’s used to remove a hub cap, turn the nut on the little baby scissor jack, and then have no hope of loosening anything. fun times
[quote=”grg88″ post=73800]My gosh, I read in some old car book long ago that antifreeze helped heat transfer, but I guess that was wrong. According to this: http://hellafunctional.com/?p=629. You lose like 12% with a 50/50 mix. Live and learn.
But 100% water is bad from a corrosion standpoint. Listen to Eric, he really knows his stuff.[/quote]
antifreeze does raise the boiling temp slightly in a pressurized system, but water itself is the best coolant
[quote=”grg88″ post=73800]My gosh, I read in some old car book long ago that antifreeze helped heat transfer, but I guess that was wrong. According to this: http://hellafunctional.com/?p=629. You lose like 12% with a 50/50 mix. Live and learn.
But 100% water is bad from a corrosion standpoint. Listen to Eric, he really knows his stuff.[/quote]
antifreeze does raise the boiling temp slightly in a pressurized system, but water itself is the best coolant
well the daytime running can stay on if the relay has welded itself on, had that before. the wipers is puzzling though
well the daytime running can stay on if the relay has welded itself on, had that before. the wipers is puzzling though
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=72250]Actually I learned quite a bit about those Honda carburetors from a former boss of mine. You could say I cut my teeth on them. That said, it’s been years since I’ve worked on one. For the purposes of video I think that an old quadrajet would work better. We can work our way up to the keihin’s that were on those Hondas after the basics are covered.[/quote]
Eric, I have a couple Rochester’s here, one is a feedback Carb, I’m not sure how much shipping would be from Canada, but I’d need them back, you won’t need to put a kit in either one, I can do those carbs blind.