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In the back of my head I was thinking it wasn’t the original. But if there was problems since it was changed definitely check over the work that was done
Could be a bad electrical connection or your pump is giving up. Since it is a 92 it could very well be the pump
[quote=”college man” post=175892][quote=”01prelude” post=175871]In the case of the brass radiator and aluminum engine, they touch through antifreeze, which in this case is an electrolyte in a cell battery of sorts because of dissimilar metals. Antifreeze is still conductive a little despite water being distilled due to some minerals, etc. If the radiator happens to be grounded (as I understand it – from the factory it must not be grounded at all costs, but I could have screwed up installation). I just need to find a way to reliably test if I inadvertently grounded it and completed the circuit for the electrolysis to occur.
Thanks again.[/quote]
I give it 15+ years to happen. Lets talk then. :)[/quote]
+1. It will outlast the vehicle.
I’m thinking pump. Need more pressure to force fluid through smaller hoses as the bigger rad hoses are much bigger and easier flow
Use the little bit of grease the give you, don’t need much. Try the trans out with new clutch. It may shift well for you
This may give a idea. http://www.aa1car.com/library/throttle-by-wire.htm
Flakey throttle actuator? Is it drive by wire?
[quote=”terryf” post=175223]I had problem with stalling before and it lead me to Crankshaft Position Sensor. Is you car equipped with that?[/quote]
Agreed, when heated up the can just lose signal like the vehicle is not running. Won’t always set a code
Another test is to charge the battery up good. Take the regulator out of the loop. Run it and see if it still happens
[quote=”Rob781″ post=175186]sounds like your thermistate it stuck….. your tempture should barlly move up and down… and you said when the car is off it will drop very quickly too…
and if its not opening up fully it could cause your car to over heat… and/or your ratator or heater core is clogged,,, you can check if its clogged by feeling your upper and lower heater hoses… when your thermistat is open they should be about the same tempture and same pressure….. but I would rec replacing with a good thermistae not a really cheap one[/quote]The lower rad hose should be noticably cooler to the touch which would rule out a blocked rad and bad fans
IAC?
I would replace the rear main. You never know how much life it has left. Your in there anyway
That seems to be out putting way too much at over 15 volts. Bad regulator? Try unplugging one headlight, testing again, then unplugging the other and testing again. Maybe a very high resistance short to ground?
Then the engines shot. Work with him. Not against him. Oil pressure unit. Once the engine is off, you may see no visual leaks right away
[quote=”Nodak81″ post=174902]Firstly of course verify that there’s no leak anywhere. Now with that said, this is a common problem with Toyotas over the last few years. It’s more than likely eating all of it due to bad rings and/or poor engine design. Always possible this isn’t your issue but I personally know 3 people dealing with a Toyota eating oil like candy so it’s the first thing that jumps into my mind.
Check this site to see what I mean. Your car isn’t listed but it’s an ever-growing problem with more cars than they’ll admit being affected. Just do a search for excessive oil consumption + Yaris and you’ll find you’re not at all alone in this.
Luckily you at least got some good mileage out of the car, far as I know there isn’t a whole lot to do other than a rebuild or ditch the car.[/quote]Instead of jumping the gun and scaring him. Maybe check the above post first. If it’s burning it like that you would see it. Crawl underneath. See if there is traces or drench in oil
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