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You get good and bad in either remans or new. As long as a warranty is provided you should be safe. I’ve had good luck with interstates myself
It will bleed off the surface charge pretty quick. Make sure the battery is clean. A slight amount of gunk can actually conduct and drain your battery. But after the surface charge drains off your battery should not keep draining just sitting.
Make sure you have nothing draining the battery as it sits. It should be able to sit for along time and still start. Heck my one truck sat all winter without being started and it fired up fine after approx 4 months of sitting. Although we didn’t really have winter this year lol
Your likely to lose some voltage due to the surface charge bleeding off after charging. Your alternator voltage seems OK. The voltage is one thing and should stay fairly Constant while the engine is running.
The more accessories you have running the more current (amperage) your alternator must generate to charge the battery. In essence, your alternator maybe putting out the correct voltage but may not be generating enough amperage to charge the battery.
If the battery failed the load test then replace the battery.
[quote=”waylongoss” post=162453]hello i have a 2003 ford taurus with a 3.0 duratech v6 and it runs great it has 175K on it. but its been throwing a p1506 code and all that i can find is the it means high idle and it idles around 1,200-1,500 rpm’s and i changed the throttle position sense and the idle air control valve. and cleaned the throttle body the mass air flow sensor i had it checked for vacuum leaks and i had all the parts and electrical circuits tested and it all tested and looked good. but the other day i ran seafood through the vacuum lines and of course the exhaust was smoking and blowing away from the car and it was smoking a little bit around the engine it was coming from the bottom and i think i might have an exhaust leak but I’m not sure please help me!!!!!!!!!![/quote]
Seafood through the vacuum lines? Seems kind of fishy to me. Talk about stinky exhaust. But you could have an exhaust leak. As noluck suggested, look underneath for starters, you should find at least one. Look for the potential exhaust leak as well. If it’s before your o2, your sensor will be off. But that’s no excuse for high idle. Is the idle air passageway clean? And certain of no vacuum leaks, have another look for those
PS. I know you meant seafoam.
Throttle body cleaner is oxygen sensor safe, not sure if all carb cleaner is. Will say on the can. Same stuff otherwise I think
[quote=”Crockett85″ post=162464][quote=”shaun” post=162461]It’s really up to you and is somewhat a gamble. Another vehicle could go for years without much work at all or could take you to the bank. If you like the car you have and you know what it needs. Then sure. Again it’s kinda a gamble unless you buy something under warranty.[/quote]
I am learning the hard way that new cars with warranties can be a gamble too. My Toyota has had ongoing powertrain problems for the last year. Even though I am still covered under the power-train warranty, the dealership always comes back and tells me that everything is “normal.” So a warranty doesn’t really mean much.[/quote]
Has the warranty taken you to the bank? Didn’t think so. He didn’t ask if new vehicles were perfect, he was wondering about money out of the pocket. To me, warrantees mean a lot, saved me a few bucks already.
It’s really up to you and is somewhat a gamble. Another vehicle could go for years without much work at all or could take you to the bank. If you like the car you have and you know what it needs. Then sure. Again it’s kinda a gamble unless you buy something under warranty.
Why are you going through that many ball joints? I thought we had pot holes lol. But I would jack it up one side at a time. Pop the tie rod out and see if the steering knuckle is hard to turn by hand
I’m thinking something is getting cleaned and slightly freed up when wet. A really stiff ball joint or tie rod. All I can think of
The water you add to pure antifreeze or to top off the rad is distilled water. Water straight from the tap will cause corrosion. I agree with college man.
Still the same today. Look for cracks and for the hose to bloat (get fat or bubble) in areas. Or replace just to feel reassured
It is definately related. It could and probly is the timing. Thanks for mentioning that. Anytime a failure happens after work has been performed, you always go back to what was recently done. In this case engine work, and the engine now fails to run properly. Take it back to where the work was done
You can use carb cleaner to propane and smoke. I personally use water in a spray bottle. Just spray around intake/head gaskets, hoses. Anywhere unwanted air can get in. Have a visual look at hoses for dry rot or cracking. Some people have an ear for it as well, depends where and how big the leak is it could be audible. Listen for changes to how the engine is running. When a leak is found the rpm and idle will change.
Also check/clean the maf sensor or any unwanted air between that and the throttle body