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See if this helps. http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/21/ee/bf/medium/0996b43f8021eebf.gif
Also you may want to get your hand on a pressure tester. Hook it up to your system and pressurize, then look for leaks. Probly a good idea to test in a quiet spot so you can listen as well.
How much fluid does it use? Seems like a small amount since it’s not noticeable on the ground or out the pipe. Does it have antifreeze in it?. Unplug the temp sender and see what the gauge does. How does it run otherwise?
Sounds like it’s a broken grommet which protects the wiring from damages from rubbing on the metal. You can probly just wrap the wire in plastic wire loom available at auto part stores.
My experience with these is heat related. Do you do a lot of towing with the vehicle. The modules need to be installed with heat sink compound
[quote=”Pita14131″ post=162533]nightflyr;
I just tried to start this car…all it does is whine. It acts like a no-spark condition. Could it be it jumped time? Does a 2.2L OHV Chevrolet engine have a timing chain? Might be the coil pack(s) also. I pulled a spark plug wire and cranked the engine but did not see any spark. Any help diagnosing this would be greatly appreciated.[/quote]Pull a plug out and with it attached to the wire ground the plug to the engine block or any good ground. Then check for spark. Unless you did something similar with a screw driver.
You can test a coil for resistance but does not mean the coil works. They break down under load. A couple volts your meter uses to test resistance is a far cry from the high voltage they run under.
Check that your getting voltage to the regulator. Those switches can go internally. I’ve taken them apart and cleaned the contacts. It’s not fun at all. See if you can find a used switch to try.
Try contacting Toyota directly. Dealers can be well, like you found out. The only issue now maybe that you have done work to it yourself. You have to even get a warranty approved oil change up here or its void.
Yes you would lose its charge. You may be able to replace the bearings. Not sure, I would wait for others to reply. Or see if this may help
How about the intake? It has 2 coolant lines going to it by the throttle body. Not sure it goes beyond that though. If not then +1 on the head being warped or cracked
I would get rid of that stuff . let the oring do its job. That stuff looks like it would be happy to clog up the rad if it broke loose.
OK, it was hard to see in the pics. Is the AC charged? If not maybe one from a Junkers? Others will have other ideas on possible repairs
[quote=”brandonlamb25″ post=162703]My luck as well. The new carries a 2.5 year replacement warranty and 5 year prorated coverage. The remanufactured one has a 30 day warranty which has me concerned.[/quote]
That’s pretty bad for a reman. You get 30 day warranty from the wreckers here. I would go with new if I were you.
Something must be out of alignment or a loose pully. Check all pullies for being loose, and if you can fit a level or some other flat edge up against the front of the pullies you may find whats off. I can’t really tell by the pics. Make sure no spacers fell out while you had things apart.
Also. Is the belt on upside down? Hard to see in pics. But it kinda looks like it. Smooth side of belt goes on smooth pullies. Ribbed side rides on ribbed pullies. If I’m not seeing that correctly my appologies
