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Hey Eric. A couple episodes ago I asked you about a p2135 code on a 2011 Cruze. It relates to the throttle position and pedal position voltage correlation. I did notice while we turned Eskimos here in Canada that the vehicle took a very long time to heat up to operating temperature. Since the deep freeze and temps around -10 Celsius we have had no problems with this vehicle. Would the unlivable cold for a human set a code that we had on the car? It did not give any codes for not reaching operating temp. Thanks Eric. You can make regina, Saskatchewan one of your meet up stops? Shaun
Hey Eric. 2011 Cruze, 1.4. have a p2135 code which is either the petal position sensor or either tps sensors. Ever ran across this? I have yet done any testing. But hoping to this weekend. Thanks
[quote=”maxiitech” post=180860]If I wanted to jump off the injectors to test them would I need a 12V charge at just 10 amps?
A lot of ways to diagnose fan motors, fuel pumps and so on is to hook it direct to the battery but the battery is 500 amps.
Could testing the injectors direct from the battery be too many amps?
Make a long story short I wound up just replacing all of the injectors with new OEM injectors.[/quote]The load will draw however many amps it needs to operate. The battery is capable of supplying 500 amps. If the source actually pushed what is capable of through a vehicle it would quickly fry everything and melt every wire. As long as you test using the correct voltage you will be fine.
[quote=”TauroTech” post=177137]I don’t have experience with many brands, but I have been thrilled with my ryobi cordless tools. I have two drills, a driver, recipe saw and circular saw. I also know people who really like Home Depots rigid tools. Whatever you get, consider the cost of new batteries. A good set of tools will outlast it’s original batteries[/quote]
Where did you find a recipe saw? I need one of those for when the wife bakes a new recipe.
A bright blue spark indicates that your probably OK there. And compression is good. But you really need to check that fuel pressure. Even at 5 psi it would spray out when loosening a fitting. Too low or even too high of pressure can cause problems.
What is the actual fuel pressure. Always good to cover the basics. Also check how the spark is and maybe the compression. No codes, start with the basics
If the core flows good out of the vehicle a new core won’t solve the problem. There’s a reason why coolant isn’t getting to it. Maybe messy but disconnect the ingoing hose and run the engine, then work your way back
[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=175878]Your not rude at all.
About 28 years ago i was in a really bad car accident “hit a patch of black ice” and one of the injuries was a fractured skull with brain damage that permanently paralyzed my left arm and mild paralysis on my left side.
So the name not only fits me but also the business.[/quote]
Ouch man. Good thing your around to tell the story. Being from Saskatchewan it’s very common. Bad thing is you can’t see it at all
Is there a valve inline with the heater core? By the sounds of it you have a vacuum controlled one. That’s what I’d look for
The o2 doesn’t effect timing. I’d be looking at your timing chain. Timing is also btdc. Could also be a bad sensor in the distributor if such equipped
Yes the relay is activated to keep the pump running. Try to clean the terminals or even slightly bending the relay prongs to help with a better connection. Will get you by for now
Just drain and refill. Not an issue. If the oil comes out full of shavings the you have an issue. But such low milage, drain and replace