[Richard Ramon]

Richard,

So a person on the Tacoma World forum suggested that I bleed all brakes and LPSV and that my rear brakes need adjustment. Not sure I buy that analysis.

[Richard Ramon]

Replaced the pads. Still have the issue. Brake lines llook good with no frays.
I noticed the left front caliper inside pistons did not close completely and when I put the pad in it was loose but not as loose as the outer.
Not sure what to do other than replace the caliper and see if that works.

[Richard Ramon]

Not on my type caliper. The pins do not go into a rubber boot but thread thru the pads and caliper and are fastened by a flexible wire clip.

These are the same pads that had no issues before I started the suspension work. Not sure new pads will fix the problem

[Richard Ramon]

Also used anti seize on the pins and on the calipers where the pads are inserted.

[Richard Ramon]

Yes, I used brake clean to take off the stuff used on rotors to prevent rust. Since the pads still have plenty of life 7-8 millimeters, I just put them back on. Should I have replaced them? I do have new Raybestos in the box.

[Richard Ramon]

Richard Kirshy,

I put on new rotors and still have the same issue. I now think it is a caliper, maybe both front. I did notice some scoring on the brake pads left front.
What are your thoughts??

[Richard Ramon]

Yeah, that’s what I have heard. I still think it is cheaper to turn them than buy new. AM auto has them for $65.00 for the pair but are out of stock at the moment. I will call my guy in the morning to see what he changes

[Richard Ramon]

R. Kirshy,

I did a brake service on the driver’s side and cleaned up the calipe, hardware and bracket and that did not fix the problem.

I will have the rotors turned next and see if that solves the problem

[Richard Ramon]

Thank you Richard. I already did the front passenger side and will do the driver’s side tomorrow morning

[Richard Ramon]

Hey Richard Kirshy

Good news is that my bleeder screws were not rusted at all and I was able to gravity bleed all 4. Strange thing was that the flow of brake fluid was very slow on all 4 wheels even though I opened up the valve at least one and a half turns.
What does that mean?

Also, when I test drove the truck the brakes continued to make what I call is a “farting” noise. This only happens when I am just about to come to a full stop. I will look at videos right now because my suspicion is that my master cylinder is going bad.

Thoughts??

[Richard Ramon]

Never use a torch before. My brakes don’t have slide pins. Hoping my calipers are still good

[Richard Ramon]

Thank you Richard.
I will work on the rotors and try to bleed all 4 lines. From the looks of the blenders, they haven’t been opened in a long time. I don’t have a acetylene tank/torch to heat up so hopefully with lots of penetrating oil they will loosen up.

[Richard Ramon]

Hi Richard and thank you for your quick response.

My Taco is a 2003 Prerunner, 2WD, 3.4L with 205400+ miles. The suspension parts I replace were all original judging by the age of the cotter pins.
I am not sure if/when the brake fluid was replaced and it is a bit on the darker side. The hoses are probably all original as well.

The rotors were replaced a couple of years ago (within the last 10,000 miles) and have never been turned. They are in okay condition and I cleaned off just a slight amount of surface rust; the only rust is along the outer edge as mentioned previously. And yes, I removed the calipers when I completed the suspension work, or at least hung them with an ‘S’ bracket. Hoses were not crimped nor twisted during and after the work.

I decided to remove the passenger side wheel, fix the bent dust plate and performed a brake service on that side, to include cleaning the slide pins and using anti-seize on the lug nuts and hub. There was not much rust on the hub and I wired-brushed what was there before I applied the anti-seize.
Pad surfaces were cleaned and dry with no cracks nor damage.

Because my calipers are multi-piston types, two on each side, I used the racheting tool to push the pistons. I also emptied some of the brake fluid from the reservoir prior to the brake service to allow the fluid to be pushed up into the reservoir.

I am wondering if I need to bleed the passenger side to fix the problem??? Will try and loosen the bleeder valve this weekend.

Question: It is safe to used 400/600 grit sand paper to remove that surface rust on the edge of the rotor???

thanks

[Richard Ramon]

Yes, I am learning to rely on cordless tools more often if I can get away with it. The ibuprofen really helped though. Knee pads are a great idea. Used them in my 20’s when roofing and construction. I’m afraid a creeper won’t help; the nerve damage in my legs/feet makes it difficult to get up and down off the ground. Just age!

I hope to finish the driver’s side upper ball joint and inner tie rod on Saturday (rain pending). I bought a 1/2 extension for the cordless as the clearance between the forks of the knuckle just isn’t there. As Robby Brown and Richard Kirshy said, “it’s better after getting car work done than to pay a mechanic”. I just can’t afford one these days so I get to wrench!

Stay dirty and OLD!!!!

[Richard Ramon]

Thank you Billy, the ibuprofen worked great! I was able to complete the upper ball joint and inner tie rod on passenger side and the only soreness I have are my shoulder blades and you said it, hips.

[Author]

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