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Also check your coolant. if you lost coolant and no external leak shown, it’s posible leaking in to engine cylinder(s). what happen is when coolant leaking into a cylinder it will foul out the plug. it will cause hard to start. Just a though.
snap on air hammer ph3050 is the beast to work on suspensions. power probe 3 to diagnose electrical. it work so well, i has two of them. one @ the shop and one @ home.
1 filament? I think the bulb should have 2. one for signal and one for running light, check to see how many wire that going into your light socket, one should be ground, one for turn, and one for running light. Check the wiring diagram as beefy stated, also i forget to mention about current draw. use a test light instead of the multimeter. just in case you have a broken wire. a strange is all it take to power the multimeter, but will not light a bulb.) also check the GROUND.
Jumped time. computer can not calculate to trigger spark. Please correct me if I’m wrong, If I remember right crank and cam have to sync.
You have 12v or batt voltage @ the light socket when you turn park lamp switch on..then your bulb is bad (I know you said it good). but theory, your light would work for the signal light but not the park light. according to the diagram, the bulb is dual filaments and it shared the same ground. then your park lamp should work, recheck the brown wire for battery voltage when you turn on park lamp. and make sure the lamp socket is not too loose and it not make contact with the bulb (park lamp bulb filament)
It could be anything, compressor, clutch, freon leak, wirings, controller, or sometimes it simple as a/c compressor clutch relay is bad. You have to understand a/c system to able to check it. Like Eric wrote on other post.
You can not check a/c system accurately with just low side, you must have a/c gauge r134 showing high and low side. now the number shown on low side (70) is static pressure. from my point of view, your a/c compressor clutch should come on. Look like you have an electrical problem (ranging from a switch to control head)
If I read correctly, you have spark and fuel, and truck ran before you replaced cap, rotor,distributor, spark plugs and wires. And now you have crank, but no start, I would first pull one of the spark plug to see what the condition is it in? If it fouled with fuel. you probably stab the distributor wrong. keep us posted.