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[quote=”SDMAN1981″ post=97843][quote=”college man” post=96434][quote=”SDMAN1981″ post=96411]Hey guys, I got my no start issue with the El Camino resolved, it was the dizzy cap, so I replaced it and now it runs again. My question is when I was testing the resistance of the coil the resistance jumped from 0.7-1.0 ohms, when it jumps how do you determine the exact reading?[/quote]
Don’t waste your time checking resistance. check the spark output
with a tester.Aslo check that 12v is being supplied to the coil and
switching on and off.[/quote]What do you mean “switching on and off”?
Also I checked the primary winding’s with a multimeter and it was fluctuating between 0.700 – 0.900 ohms…. shouldn’t it be steady?[/quote]
[quote=”college man” post=96434][quote=”SDMAN1981″ post=96411]Hey guys, I got my no start issue with the El Camino resolved, it was the dizzy cap, so I replaced it and now it runs again. My question is when I was testing the resistance of the coil the resistance jumped from 0.7-1.0 ohms, when it jumps how do you determine the exact reading?[/quote]
Don’t waste your time checking resistance. check the spark output
with a tester.Aslo check that 12v is being supplied to the coil and
switching on and off.[/quoteWhat do you mean “switching on and off”?
Also I checked the primary winding’s with a multimeter and it was fluctuating between 0.700 – 0.900 ohms…. shouldn’t it be steady?
[quote=”college man” post=96434][quote=”SDMAN1981″ post=96411]Hey guys, I got my no start issue with the El Camino resolved, it was the dizzy cap, so I replaced it and now it runs again. My question is when I was testing the resistance of the coil the resistance jumped from 0.7-1.0 ohms, when it jumps how do you determine the exact reading?[/quote]
Don’t waste your time checking resistance. check the spark output
with a tester.Aslo check that 12v is being supplied to the coil and
switching on and off.[/quoteWhat do you mean “switching on and off”?
Also I checked the primary winding’s with a multimeter and it was fluctuating between 0.700 – 0.900 ohms…. shouldn’t it be steady?
Well I’m mainly looking for a tester that tests CCA (the life of the battery) I don’t like taking the battery up to Autozone for a check.
Well I’m mainly looking for a tester that tests CCA (the life of the battery) I don’t like taking the battery up to Autozone for a check.
Found the problem… it was NOT the coil, although I did clean it up and put dialectic grease in it. The problem was the distributor cap carbon button underneath it, it is either pushed in or burned, I don’t see how it could be burned though. Have they been known to get pushed in and stuck? The dizzy, cap and rotor are 14 months old and less than 3000 miles on it.
Found the problem… it was NOT the coil, although I did clean it up and put dialectic grease in it. The problem was the distributor cap carbon button underneath it, it is either pushed in or burned, I don’t see how it could be burned though. Have they been known to get pushed in and stuck? The dizzy, cap and rotor are 14 months old and less than 3000 miles on it.
Alright guys, i’ll keep you posted.
Thanks. I’ll do more tests tomorrow.
Alright guys, i’ll keep you posted.
Thanks. I’ll do more tests tomorrow.
It is a HEI Pro-Billet breakerless distributor with an old school coil. I have reason to believe it is the coil, I also did a resistance test with a multi-meter and it was fluctuating between 00.7 – 00.9 on + and -.
Here is the photo of the coil… the main cap looks dry with corrosion also….
It is a HEI Pro-Billet breakerless distributor with an old school coil. I have reason to believe it is the coil, I also did a resistance test with a multi-meter and it was fluctuating between 00.7 – 00.9 on + and -.
Here is the photo of the coil… the main cap looks dry with corrosion also….
OK, tried unclogging the egr ports on the intake for the egr valve and the engine almost died after I tested it with a vacuum pump, so I must of unclogged it.
My question now is if the check engine light does happen to come back on what are other things to check in the egr system? I checked the VSV, modulator, EGR Valve but have not checked the EGR sensor, is that the only thing left to check as far as the EGR system goes?
The check engine should not come back on… I’m hoping that cured it.
Anyways thanks for the help.
OK, tried unclogging the egr ports on the intake for the egr valve and the engine almost died after I tested it with a vacuum pump, so I must of unclogged it.
My question now is if the check engine light does happen to come back on what are other things to check in the egr system? I checked the VSV, modulator, EGR Valve but have not checked the EGR sensor, is that the only thing left to check as far as the EGR system goes?
The check engine should not come back on… I’m hoping that cured it.
Anyways thanks for the help.
That video was to clean the EGR valve its self, is that also how you clean or clear out the EGR port(s) on the intake manifold too?
That video was to clean the EGR valve its self, is that also how you clean or clear out the EGR port(s) on the intake manifold too?
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