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Removed dogbone; it’s perfectly intact. No tears at all in the rubber. I’m leaning heavily toward the bottom mount in the front. Apparently that’s the main one that absorbs the acceleration torque in this engine and is the first to fail. But I wish I knew for sure. The cheapest I can find a new OEM front mount for is about $140 shipped! I may pay a shop to diagnose them all for me on a rack just to be sure.
Here’s what the workshop manual says. It doesn’t look that bad to me. At least you can pull it from the top. On our Windstar you have to actually support the condenser to the frame, remove the bracket, and then pull the radiator out from underneath. (Thanks for that one, Ford..)
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Section 03-03: Engine Cooling 1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
——————————————————————————–
Radiator
Aluminum Core, Crossflow
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set T90T-9550-SRemoval
CAUTION: Do not mix Standard (green) Coolant with Extended Life Coolant (orange). If mixing occurs, drain engine cooling system and refill with originally equipped coolant type. If this contamination occurs, the service interval on Extended Life Coolant will be reduced from 6 years/150,000 miles to 3 years/30,000 miles.
Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
Remove battery (10653) as described in Section 14-01 .
Remove battery tray (10732) as described in Section 14-01 .
Remove clip retaining contant control relay module and position module aside.
Remove radiator cap (8100).
Raise vehicle on hoist as described in Section 00-02 .
Remove radiator splash shield.
Drain engine cooling system as described in this section.
Remove the radiator mounting bracket assembly.
Remove lower radiator hose (8286).
Partially lower vehicle.
Remove upper radiator hose (8260).
Remove radiator overflow hose (8075).
Remove upper A/C condenser core retaining bolts.
Remove upper transmission oil cooler tube clips.
Remove lower transmission oil cooler tube (7C410) using 3/8 Inch Fuel Line Disconnect Tool T90T-9550-C.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove lower transmission oil cooler tube clips.
Remove lower transmission oil cooler tube (7C410) using 3/8 Inch Fuel Line Disconnect Tool T90T-9550-C.
Remove transmission oil cooler bracket and position transmission oil cooler aside.
Remove lower A/C condenser core bolts and position A/C condenser core (19712) aside.
Remove radiator support bracket.
Remove radiator (8005).
Installation
Position radiator (8005).
Position radiator support bracket and tighten nuts to 8-12Nm (71-106 lb-in).
Position A/C condenser core (19712)and tighten lower A/C condenser core bolts to 5-7 Nm (45-61 lb-in).
Position transmission oil cooler tube and install transmission oil cooler tube bracket. Tighten nuts to 5-7Nm (45-61 lb-in).
Install lower transmission oil cooler tube (7C410)(EPN=7C410).
Install lower transmission oil cooler tube clips.
Install lower radiator hose (8286).
Install radiator mounting bracket assembly. Tighten bolts to 8-12Nm (71-106 lb-in).
Install radiator splash shield.
Lower vehicle.
Install upper tranmission oil cooler tube (7C410)(EPN=7C410).
Install upper transmission oil cooler tube clips.
Install upper A/C condenser core retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 5-7Nm (45-61 lb-in).
Install radiator overflow hose (8075). Tighten clamps securely.
Install upper radiator hose (8260).
Position constant control relay module and clip securely.
Install battery tray (10732).
Install battery (10653)(EPN=10653).
Connect battery ground cable (14301).
Fill and bleed cooling system as described in this section.
Start engine and inspect for leaks.
Here’s what the workshop manual says. It doesn’t look that bad to me. At least you can pull it from the top. On our Windstar you have to actually support the condenser to the frame, remove the bracket, and then pull the radiator out from underneath. (Thanks for that one, Ford..)
—–
Section 03-03: Engine Cooling 1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
——————————————————————————–
Radiator
Aluminum Core, Crossflow
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set T90T-9550-SRemoval
CAUTION: Do not mix Standard (green) Coolant with Extended Life Coolant (orange). If mixing occurs, drain engine cooling system and refill with originally equipped coolant type. If this contamination occurs, the service interval on Extended Life Coolant will be reduced from 6 years/150,000 miles to 3 years/30,000 miles.
Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
Remove battery (10653) as described in Section 14-01 .
Remove battery tray (10732) as described in Section 14-01 .
Remove clip retaining contant control relay module and position module aside.
Remove radiator cap (8100).
Raise vehicle on hoist as described in Section 00-02 .
Remove radiator splash shield.
Drain engine cooling system as described in this section.
Remove the radiator mounting bracket assembly.
Remove lower radiator hose (8286).
Partially lower vehicle.
Remove upper radiator hose (8260).
Remove radiator overflow hose (8075).
Remove upper A/C condenser core retaining bolts.
Remove upper transmission oil cooler tube clips.
Remove lower transmission oil cooler tube (7C410) using 3/8 Inch Fuel Line Disconnect Tool T90T-9550-C.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove lower transmission oil cooler tube clips.
Remove lower transmission oil cooler tube (7C410) using 3/8 Inch Fuel Line Disconnect Tool T90T-9550-C.
Remove transmission oil cooler bracket and position transmission oil cooler aside.
Remove lower A/C condenser core bolts and position A/C condenser core (19712) aside.
Remove radiator support bracket.
Remove radiator (8005).
Installation
Position radiator (8005).
Position radiator support bracket and tighten nuts to 8-12Nm (71-106 lb-in).
Position A/C condenser core (19712)and tighten lower A/C condenser core bolts to 5-7 Nm (45-61 lb-in).
Position transmission oil cooler tube and install transmission oil cooler tube bracket. Tighten nuts to 5-7Nm (45-61 lb-in).
Install lower transmission oil cooler tube (7C410)(EPN=7C410).
Install lower transmission oil cooler tube clips.
Install lower radiator hose (8286).
Install radiator mounting bracket assembly. Tighten bolts to 8-12Nm (71-106 lb-in).
Install radiator splash shield.
Lower vehicle.
Install upper tranmission oil cooler tube (7C410)(EPN=7C410).
Install upper transmission oil cooler tube clips.
Install upper A/C condenser core retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 5-7Nm (45-61 lb-in).
Install radiator overflow hose (8075). Tighten clamps securely.
Install upper radiator hose (8260).
Position constant control relay module and clip securely.
Install battery tray (10732).
Install battery (10653)(EPN=10653).
Connect battery ground cable (14301).
Fill and bleed cooling system as described in this section.
Start engine and inspect for leaks.
I’ve done brake service maybe 6-7 times in my life so I’m certainly wouldn’t claim to have all the answers. However, just something I do — instead of putting those rotor screws back in, I simply spin on two lug nuts across from the caliper mounting point temporarily to hold the rotor in place. In this video, they would be at about the 2:00 and 6:00 position. It works perfectly well and avoids having to deal with the screws ever again. Yeah, it’s a LITTLE bit more work to install and remove them, but it’s a lot less work than dealing with those screws in the future. They’re really only there for the assembly line anyway.
Thanks again for another great video!
I’ve done brake service maybe 6-7 times in my life so I’m certainly wouldn’t claim to have all the answers. However, just something I do — instead of putting those rotor screws back in, I simply spin on two lug nuts across from the caliper mounting point temporarily to hold the rotor in place. In this video, they would be at about the 2:00 and 6:00 position. It works perfectly well and avoids having to deal with the screws ever again. Yeah, it’s a LITTLE bit more work to install and remove them, but it’s a lot less work than dealing with those screws in the future. They’re really only there for the assembly line anyway.
Thanks again for another great video!
Thanks for that suggestion. Bending steel tubing is definitely more of an art form than it would appear and practice and tips like that definitely help.
This job, while not overall terribly difficult, has it’s quirks. Working with that steel brake line tubing can be very unforgiving.
Thanks for that suggestion. Bending steel tubing is definitely more of an art form than it would appear and practice and tips like that definitely help.
This job, while not overall terribly difficult, has it’s quirks. Working with that steel brake line tubing can be very unforgiving.
I would recommend, strongly, that everyone read Dale Carnegie’s “How to win friends and influence people”. The title kind of opens itself up to mockery, but it is truly the best thing you could ever read. I attended the 12-week seminar which included a copy of the book. It’s made me a better worker in my career and personal life and is helpful to just about anyone. The way you approach a situation will determine the outcome as much, if not more, than its facts and circumstances.
Here are Dale Carnegie’s 30 “golden rules for success”. My favorite is the first one. Eric, (perhaps unknowingly…heh) runs his business here by these principles, which I believe is key to his success. There is never an arrogant statement in any video, he admits and shows us mistakes, always has a friendly attitude, and responds positively to all suggestions.
(Note: These are posted all over the internet and are distributed freely; I would not post copyrighted content.)
Become a Friendlier Person
1. Don’t criticize, condemn or complain.
2. Give honest, sincere appreciation.
3. Arouse in the other person an eager want.
4. Become genuinely interested in other people.
5. Smile.
6. Remember that a person’s name is to that person the sweetest and most
important sound in any language.
7. Be a good listener. Encourage others to talk about themselves.
8. Talk in terms of the other person’s interests.
9. Make the other person feel important – and do it sincerely.Win People to Your Way of Thinking
10. The only way to get the best of an argument is to avoid it.
11. Show respect for the other person’s opinion. Never say, “You’re wrong.”
12. If you are wrong, admit it quickly and emphatically.
13. Begin in a friendly way.
14. Get the other person saying “yes, yes” immediately.
15. Let the other person do a great deal of the talking.
16. Let the other person feel that the idea is his or hers.
17. Try honestly to see things from the other person’s point of view.
18. Be sympathetic with the other person’s ideas and desires.
19. Appeal to the nobler motives.
20. Dramatize your ideas.
21. Throw down a challenge.Be a Leader
22. Begin with praise and honest appreciation.
23. Call attention to people’s mistakes indirectly.
24. Talk about your own mistakes before criticizing the other person.
25. Ask questions instead of giving direct orders.
26. Let the other person save face.
27. Praise the slightest improvement and praise every improvement. Be “hearty in your approbation and lavish in your praise.”
28. Give the other person a fine reputation to live up to.
29. Use encouragement. Make the fault seem easy to correct.
30. Make the other person happy about doing the thing you suggest.I would recommend, strongly, that everyone read Dale Carnegie’s “How to win friends and influence people”. The title kind of opens itself up to mockery, but it is truly the best thing you could ever read. I attended the 12-week seminar which included a copy of the book. It’s made me a better worker in my career and personal life and is helpful to just about anyone. The way you approach a situation will determine the outcome as much, if not more, than its facts and circumstances.
Here are Dale Carnegie’s 30 “golden rules for success”. My favorite is the first one. Eric, (perhaps unknowingly…heh) runs his business here by these principles, which I believe is key to his success. There is never an arrogant statement in any video, he admits and shows us mistakes, always has a friendly attitude, and responds positively to all suggestions.
(Note: These are posted all over the internet and are distributed freely; I would not post copyrighted content.)
Become a Friendlier Person
1. Don’t criticize, condemn or complain.
2. Give honest, sincere appreciation.
3. Arouse in the other person an eager want.
4. Become genuinely interested in other people.
5. Smile.
6. Remember that a person’s name is to that person the sweetest and most
important sound in any language.
7. Be a good listener. Encourage others to talk about themselves.
8. Talk in terms of the other person’s interests.
9. Make the other person feel important – and do it sincerely.Win People to Your Way of Thinking
10. The only way to get the best of an argument is to avoid it.
11. Show respect for the other person’s opinion. Never say, “You’re wrong.”
12. If you are wrong, admit it quickly and emphatically.
13. Begin in a friendly way.
14. Get the other person saying “yes, yes” immediately.
15. Let the other person do a great deal of the talking.
16. Let the other person feel that the idea is his or hers.
17. Try honestly to see things from the other person’s point of view.
18. Be sympathetic with the other person’s ideas and desires.
19. Appeal to the nobler motives.
20. Dramatize your ideas.
21. Throw down a challenge.Be a Leader
22. Begin with praise and honest appreciation.
23. Call attention to people’s mistakes indirectly.
24. Talk about your own mistakes before criticizing the other person.
25. Ask questions instead of giving direct orders.
26. Let the other person save face.
27. Praise the slightest improvement and praise every improvement. Be “hearty in your approbation and lavish in your praise.”
28. Give the other person a fine reputation to live up to.
29. Use encouragement. Make the fault seem easy to correct.
30. Make the other person happy about doing the thing you suggest.Another way to do this repair might be to cut the line on either side of the compression fitting. Then you can pick up a pre-flared 12″ section from advance auto or wherever and two flare unions, and then attach it in. The only problem doing it that way would be that you basically have to lie on your back and use the hand-flare tool instead of your really awesome flare tool. That’s not better or worse (depends on circumstances really); it’s just another way of doing the repair. Replacing the entire line on a vehicle this old isn’t a bad thing, though, that’s for sure.
For anyone who has an ABS HCU module, just FYI — if you disconnect that thing or let any air in, you MUST get it bled with a dealer-level scan tool. There’s just no way to cycle it through and do it yourself. (There are some hacks to DIY for certain vehicles but they’re not always easy to find or carry out.) In my case, by using the pedal-hold-down method, I was able to replace the section via the crappy loaner tool and pre-flared repair 12″ section and flare union and not allow any air into the HCU.
One last note to anyone who may read this regarding Eric’s advice on using a flare wrench and not cross-threading the fittings: Heed those warnings DILIGENTLY. Having done both the first of the two times I did a brake line repair, I can tell you that rounding off and cross-threading one of those flare fittings while screwing it in to a component will ruin your weekend and your wallet. I was lucky that I was able to find a new HCU at the junkyard, but cross-threading that steel fitting into the aluminum HCU destroyed the ability to ever screw in another fitting again.
Thanks again for the videos, Eric.
Another way to do this repair might be to cut the line on either side of the compression fitting. Then you can pick up a pre-flared 12″ section from advance auto or wherever and two flare unions, and then attach it in. The only problem doing it that way would be that you basically have to lie on your back and use the hand-flare tool instead of your really awesome flare tool. That’s not better or worse (depends on circumstances really); it’s just another way of doing the repair. Replacing the entire line on a vehicle this old isn’t a bad thing, though, that’s for sure.
For anyone who has an ABS HCU module, just FYI — if you disconnect that thing or let any air in, you MUST get it bled with a dealer-level scan tool. There’s just no way to cycle it through and do it yourself. (There are some hacks to DIY for certain vehicles but they’re not always easy to find or carry out.) In my case, by using the pedal-hold-down method, I was able to replace the section via the crappy loaner tool and pre-flared repair 12″ section and flare union and not allow any air into the HCU.
One last note to anyone who may read this regarding Eric’s advice on using a flare wrench and not cross-threading the fittings: Heed those warnings DILIGENTLY. Having done both the first of the two times I did a brake line repair, I can tell you that rounding off and cross-threading one of those flare fittings while screwing it in to a component will ruin your weekend and your wallet. I was lucky that I was able to find a new HCU at the junkyard, but cross-threading that steel fitting into the aluminum HCU destroyed the ability to ever screw in another fitting again.
Thanks again for the videos, Eric.
Quick tip: Next time use something to hold the brake pedal down (and pull fuses or disconnect battery to prevent draining it due to brake lights staying on.) Other than the little squirt initially, that’ll seal off the master and hold all the upstream fluid in place.
Quick tip: Next time use something to hold the brake pedal down (and pull fuses or disconnect battery to prevent draining it due to brake lights staying on.) Other than the little squirt initially, that’ll seal off the master and hold all the upstream fluid in place.
Both of our 2002 model year vehicles (a Ford and a Toyota) have a design that makes it basically impossible to replace the solenoid separately. It’s probably just the modern way because it’s more profitable to make you replace the whole thing. It feels a lot like how they don’t sell wiper inserts anymore and make you replace the whole blade every time.
Both of our 2002 model year vehicles (a Ford and a Toyota) have a design that makes it basically impossible to replace the solenoid separately. It’s probably just the modern way because it’s more profitable to make you replace the whole thing. It feels a lot like how they don’t sell wiper inserts anymore and make you replace the whole blade every time.