Forum Replies Created
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I wonder if, perhaps, the expansion valve in the front is sticking but the rear one is still good. Thus, you get minimal cooling in the front with just the front unit running, but when you turn on the rear, the refrigerant can flow throughout and thus provide some cooling. It seems to happen in Toyotas from time to time, albeit this is coming from very minimal experience. I’d probably see if it holds the charge for a little while first but I thought I’d throw the idea out there just for the heck of it. It’d suck for you to have to recover and recharge that thing again, but it’d make an awesome video for the rest of us to watch in the comfort of our climate controlled homes! 🙂 And, you’d get to try out yet another new toy (as if you need more) once you get a recovery machine. I’ll donate the valve for Barbara!
This was a really, really cool series. Thanks for doing it. I’m looking forward to the next!
BTW – I ordered a window motor from carpartkings.com and let them know where I got the referral from. (They said only good things about Eric back, of course.) I strongly encourage others to do the same. If you buy from a vendor featured on this site and Eric’s videos, be sure to let them know where you got the referral from. It’s the least we can do and it takes very minimal effort to send them a quick email.
As far as you know, have those transmission problems been corrected in this van and later models or do you expect the same issues down the road? I’m looking at replacing the 2002 Windstar in the next year or two (ONLY STILL RUNNING thanks to your videos mainly) and would like to avoid something with a known transmission defect.
Thanks for your time and congrats on all the new toys… I mean, tools!
I just decided to order my very own can (now plastic bottle) of silicon paste.
Question: Is it supposed to be thick, as in REALLY thick? It almost feels like glue that’s half dried out. It actually took a little force to pull the attached brush all the way out of the bottle.
I just decided to order my very own can (now plastic bottle) of silicon paste.
Question: Is it supposed to be thick, as in REALLY thick? It almost feels like glue that’s half dried out. It actually took a little force to pull the attached brush all the way out of the bottle.
Exactly! Unless you hit a curb or a pothole since then, they could not possibly have done a proper alignment with loose tie rods. Demand they do it again, and properly this time! Then, find a more honest shop for next time.
Exactly! Unless you hit a curb or a pothole since then, they could not possibly have done a proper alignment with loose tie rods. Demand they do it again, and properly this time! Then, find a more honest shop for next time.
Yup. Fortunately they’re not that expensive. (Get Moog or a decent brand; skip the super cheap ones).
Don’t forget to drive straight to a shop for an alignment when you’re done!
Yup. Fortunately they’re not that expensive. (Get Moog or a decent brand; skip the super cheap ones).
Don’t forget to drive straight to a shop for an alignment when you’re done!
Change the outer, then just snug up the castle nut and check again. Shake the hub back and forth (3-9) and also pull up and down up on the rod up towards the boot and make sure that doesn’t move either. Process of elimination. It’s most likely just the outer. Usually when you hit a bit pothole or something one of the two get damaged. It’s possible both are bad but check first before replacing parts that aren’t broken.
Either way, don’t forget that you need to get an alignment when you’re done.
Change the outer, then just snug up the castle nut and check again. Shake the hub back and forth (3-9) and also pull up and down up on the rod up towards the boot and make sure that doesn’t move either. Process of elimination. It’s most likely just the outer. Usually when you hit a bit pothole or something one of the two get damaged. It’s possible both are bad but check first before replacing parts that aren’t broken.
Either way, don’t forget that you need to get an alignment when you’re done.
Do you hear a clunk or noise when moving the tire? Is the steering wheel locked? If not, it could just be steering movement.
Ensure the steering is locked, get an assistant if possible, and wiggle the wheel back and forth while looking at all the components behind the wheel. See if a tie rod, control arm bushing, ball joint, sway bar link, or something else I didn’t mention is moving. Finally, sometimes the CV axles will have a small amount of normal movement at the transmission. I would not be concerned with that either.
I wouldn’t replace anything without verifying what it is. Guessing is very expensive and often a big waste of time. Watch Eric’s video on diagnosing noises, too.
Do you hear a clunk or noise when moving the tire? Is the steering wheel locked? If not, it could just be steering movement.
Ensure the steering is locked, get an assistant if possible, and wiggle the wheel back and forth while looking at all the components behind the wheel. See if a tie rod, control arm bushing, ball joint, sway bar link, or something else I didn’t mention is moving. Finally, sometimes the CV axles will have a small amount of normal movement at the transmission. I would not be concerned with that either.
I wouldn’t replace anything without verifying what it is. Guessing is very expensive and often a big waste of time. Watch Eric’s video on diagnosing noises, too.