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[quote=”college man” post=180524]Looks like someone tried to fix it with jb weld or silicone. No Good. :angry:[/quote]
Funny you should say that – I thought the exact same thing – the junk looked just like jbweld
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[quote=”Evil-i” post=180484]Call me crazy, but in the picture that shows the top side of the valve cover, it looks like the spark plug hole was manufactured elongated like that.
Gotta say, looking from the underside, that your engine oil or oil change intervals aren’t doing the engine any favors.[/quote]
Yeah, I was not pleased to find all that gunk in there…bought it from a dealer a year ago…all notes available at the time seemed to indicate good maintenance…
Oh, the value of regular oil changes…Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It seems the van had overheated at one point.
I had to replace the vc – see pics
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161206/2a282b7d6bf848c71b04f11c4dc2a7ad.jpg[/IMG]And here are some better views of the old one:
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161206/40571da18f0121430caf229fe60b0dbb.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161206/64c6b40ea70190f4e7ac6791818b3f98.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161206/dd6a5f16baa6ff79ecdea95cdd473442.jpg[/IMG]Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[quote=”Goldchevyck95″ post=162503]If you’re planning to just run off the aftermarket headunit power, your stock speakers, battery, and wiring should be fine. There are wiring adapters on the market that convert your aftermarket HU’s harness to the stock harness.
Your stock speakers will probably be happier with the aftermaket HU’s power output rather than the stocker’s. In audio, while it is possible to destroy speakers by overpowering them, it is more likely for you to kill speakers by clipping your amp, or turning it up beyond its capability, sending direct current to your speakers at the top and the bottom of the soundwave, rather than alternating currect throughout the speaker cycle.
This is all decided by how far you turn the volume knob.
I don’t think you’re in any danger of damaging your car if you’re just installing a radio. Besides wiring the harness adapter to the HU’s harness, it should be reletively plug and play.[/quote]
Agreed.
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Try installing a ground loop isolator.
Or, gain access to the speaker to make sure the connectors at the speaker are still tight.
Otherwise, it may be a preamp grounding issue in your head unit on the left rear output.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
College man is highly intelligent – I wouldn’t check him off too quickly. 🙂
If you get moaning or groaning while driving down the road, make sure your kid has a trash can to throw up in, or if you think the moaning is coming from your car, suspect the wheel bearings.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Check distributor/coils.
Did the first line say you don’t hear the fuel pump priming at startup? Could be fuel-related.
After some cranking, pull a spark plug out – is it wet, and smells like fuel?
Post a picture of one or all of the spark plugs – may point you in the right direction as far as the issue prior to the crank-no-start.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scraping while driving: check your wheel bearings/ hub assemblies.
Cranking while turning: inspect your steering column/rack & pinion, inner tie rods, or outer tie rods.
Bumps: could be the dampers going bad on your suspension mounts – macpherson struts sometimes do that…Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What sort of flashing is the d4 giving you? Consistent flashes continuously? A pattern?
Try resetting it by disconnecting your battery overnight. (Really only takes 20 mins or so, but I find it easier to just do it overnight).
When the d4 light begins flashing, jump the connector (might want to make sure the connector doesn’t have issues of its own) and count the flash pattern.
D4 light generally indicates transmission issues and the SES light indicates motor/computer/electricalSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don’t know if I’d go the iacv route just yet; they’re very costly – at least it was on my ’93 accord – and it didn’t even fix my problem, which was similar to yours.
First check for vacuum leaks in line AFTER the fast idle valve.
After replacing so many items on my accord to nail down the idle issue, it ended up being a faulty intake manifold gasket….Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk