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I personally own a bunch of the Craftsman C3 tools. I have a 1/2inch drill and a 3/8in right angle drill that I purchased in early 2005, and they survived Hurricane Katrina (they were above the water line) but the charger wasn’t so lucky. I got new batteries, a new charger, and have added pieces to the set over the years. I now own the two drills just mentioned, plus another new style drill, 5.5″ circular saw, jigsaw, and reciprocating saw. Other than the batteries having to be replaced every 2 years, they have served me very well. I now have the new Lithium batteries which seem to be more powerful and hold a charge longer than the NiCad batteries.
I also have a few DeWalt 18v power tools, impact drivers to be specific. I have a 1/4″ impact drive impact driver, a 3/8″ impact gun, and a 1/2″ impact gun. The 1/4″ only accepts hex bits, but it is a beast when it comes to driving screws or lags. I used one daily at work so I just HAD to have one. Then I bought the 3/8 and 1/2 impact guns for Auto repair since they accept impact sockets. I think Eric uses the same 3/8″ 18v impact in some of his videos, the thing is a BEAST. The 1/2″ is even more of a beast. But its so huge that I mostly use it for wheel lugnuts and not much more, except for when I replaced my shocks a while back. The 3/8″ helped me zip the bolts right out when I was replacing my fuel pump this summer.If you are planning on keeping this truck for many years, go ahead and change the transmission fluid soon too. I would do a good trip hailing the trailer, and then change the transmission fluid after that. I know that Dodge probably won’t recommend changing the fluid until it hits 36,000 or more, but if you change it before 10k, you by all the initial break in dirt and debris out of the transmission.
I personally have the PowerProbe 3. I’ve had it for about 10 years or so. I used to install car stereos and alarm systems and remote starters for a living. The powerpobe was invaluable in finding all the correct wires to splice into when installing alarms and remote starters. I could not only test the wire with the probe, but I could even double check by powering the locks or the parking lights to make SURE that I had the correct wires. To this day, its my favorite electrical diagnosing tool. I don’t use it every day for work any more but I do still use it periodically when working on anything electrical on my own vehicles. I used it to verify that my fuel pump was indeed bad. I used it when my window regulators went out. The motors were still good, but the regulators were all jammed up. I used it recently when I helped my neighbor had a problem with his power window.
I checked into the Power probe 4 when it was released, but I saw that there were not quite enough differences between the 3 and the 4 to justify buying a 4. Now the Hook has caught my eye, but I just don’t have the funds for it right now. Maybe one day…Glad to hear that you got it fixed. I had a similar issue with my 2001 Suburban. I don’t have the Auto Climate controls, but the Ambient light sensor was causing my lights to go haywire. I picked up a new sensor at the local Chevy dealership for under $20, swapped it out and all has been fine ever since.
Last tools I bought was two torque wrenches from Harbor Freight, a 1/4″ and a 1/2″. I VERY rarely use a torque wrench, but I was replacing the knock sensors on my 5.3 Chevy truck. I also got some TekTon brand impact sockets from Amazon to go with my DeWalt impact gun.
I had a very similar issue with my wife’s 2005 Altima ever since it was new in 2005. The dumbasses at the dealership never could figure it out, but Nissan finally did a tech service bulletin about air being trapped in the system. So in 2008 I finally put the car up on ramps to get the front end higher, and had my wife rev the engine to about 3k RPMs so I could burp the air out. I believe Eric did a video on how to do this. If not, I saw someone else do it on YouTube. The process included making a “bleeder bottle” out of a milk jug and some rubber hose. Attach the rubber hose in place of the hose that connects the radiator to the overflow reservoir, and hold the bottle up as high above the engine as possible while revving up the engine to at least 3k RPMs. But instead of building a bleeder bottle, I simply unbolted the reservoir and held it up high leaving the hose attached. So that was basically the bleeder bottle. It only required removing two bolts to lift up the bottle on the Altima, I’m not sure how the Durango is set up. It might be a lot easier to make a bleeder bottle.
I don’t have any experience working on the 3100 or 3400 GM engines, but like you guys, I have heard about constant issues of intake gasket failures. Are these issues related to the massive GM lawsuit about the Dexcool coolant eating away at the intake gaskets in certain engines? I’m not sure. But I know when searching for a car to purchase many years ago, I heard from several mechanics to try and avoid a car with a 3100 engine in it unless I know the entire history of the car, and the owner recently had the intake gasket replaced. I was looking at a few late 90s early 00’s Chevy Malibus and Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera and Cutlass Supreme and I was told to avoid them. A coworker of mine had a 96 Ciera and he had issues with overheating and the intake gasket leaking. All of that definitely steered me away from any car with that engine. Now the 3800 engine on the other hand is a very stout reliable engine.
I have purchased parts from this site before.
http://www.pacparts.comI have purchased plugs, harnesses and interface cables for Alpine, Pioneer, and Kenwood stereos.