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You really have two choices here. Either buy the tools to diagnose it yourself or take it to a different shop that is reputable and able to fix it. To find the leak you really need a set of ramps or jack and stands and start digging around under and on top of the car to find the leak. One of my favorite tools is my stant pressure tester when it comes to coolant leaks. I think you can “rent” them at most auto parts stores, you pay for the tool in full and when you return it they refund all your money. An inspection mirror is also nice in these situations. But if you aren’t going to fix it yourself I would just find a good shop and take it there. Seems like the shop you have been taking it to has just been throwing parts at it.
You really have two choices here. Either buy the tools to diagnose it yourself or take it to a different shop that is reputable and able to fix it. To find the leak you really need a set of ramps or jack and stands and start digging around under and on top of the car to find the leak. One of my favorite tools is my stant pressure tester when it comes to coolant leaks. I think you can “rent” them at most auto parts stores, you pay for the tool in full and when you return it they refund all your money. An inspection mirror is also nice in these situations. But if you aren’t going to fix it yourself I would just find a good shop and take it there. Seems like the shop you have been taking it to has just been throwing parts at it.
I did a 97′ not to long ago. Two things come to mind here.
First, if you didn’t adjust your pushrods you very easily could have bent one. They can be a little tricky to get seated right. Then there is a pretty specific procedure for adjusting the rockers. You have to do TDC and then you can only do certain intake and exhaust on certain cylinders rockers. Then you have to rotate the engine and you can do the other intake and exhaust rockers on certain cylinders. You are also supposed to “pre load” the oil pressure since they are hydraulic lifters they will change if you don’t have any oil pressure. You have to get these adjusted close or you will bend push rods and have problems running. I get them close by tightening them(with the engine at the correct TDC) and rotating the pushrod with my hand and then when engine is good I re adjust them. I take the valve covers off and have a set of rocker stoppers to put on the push rods so oil doesn’t shoot everywhere. Then with engine running I adjust the rockers. You can google “vortec rocker adjustment” and get lots of info. Also google “rocker stoppers”, well worth the 10 bucks or so to keep oil from flying all over.
Second, setting the timing on these is crazy. You mentioned using a timing light. No timing light needed, you HAVE to use an expensive scanner that will read cam retard. To set the timing you have to follow the procedure to get the distributor close. It has to be within +/- 2 degrees. Then you have to use the scan tool to actually “set” the timing. You can google this also, lots of info out there.
I did a 97′ not to long ago. Two things come to mind here.
First, if you didn’t adjust your pushrods you very easily could have bent one. They can be a little tricky to get seated right. Then there is a pretty specific procedure for adjusting the rockers. You have to do TDC and then you can only do certain intake and exhaust on certain cylinders rockers. Then you have to rotate the engine and you can do the other intake and exhaust rockers on certain cylinders. You are also supposed to “pre load” the oil pressure since they are hydraulic lifters they will change if you don’t have any oil pressure. You have to get these adjusted close or you will bend push rods and have problems running. I get them close by tightening them(with the engine at the correct TDC) and rotating the pushrod with my hand and then when engine is good I re adjust them. I take the valve covers off and have a set of rocker stoppers to put on the push rods so oil doesn’t shoot everywhere. Then with engine running I adjust the rockers. You can google “vortec rocker adjustment” and get lots of info. Also google “rocker stoppers”, well worth the 10 bucks or so to keep oil from flying all over.
Second, setting the timing on these is crazy. You mentioned using a timing light. No timing light needed, you HAVE to use an expensive scanner that will read cam retard. To set the timing you have to follow the procedure to get the distributor close. It has to be within +/- 2 degrees. Then you have to use the scan tool to actually “set” the timing. You can google this also, lots of info out there.
Just curious if you did another compression test after you completed the repair in order to compare the numbers?
Just curious if you did another compression test after you completed the repair in order to compare the numbers?
I firmly believe in keeping the fluids fresh. I follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and then some. Drain and fills on all the fluids and keep the fluids and filters fresh. Lots of people change the oil and wait until a problem comes around in order to fix it. I do as much preventative maintenance as possible.
I firmly believe in keeping the fluids fresh. I follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and then some. Drain and fills on all the fluids and keep the fluids and filters fresh. Lots of people change the oil and wait until a problem comes around in order to fix it. I do as much preventative maintenance as possible.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor
Here is a google image search for “Nissan maxima map sensor” hopefully one of the pictures will help you.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&qscrl=1&rlz=1T4GGNI_enUS517US518&q=nissan+maxima+map+sensor&ion=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.42768644,d.dmQ&biw=1032&bih=480&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=fgspUbLAPNOp0AG5xoHwAgYour sensor on rockauto is 120 bucks.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor
Here is a google image search for “Nissan maxima map sensor” hopefully one of the pictures will help you.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&qscrl=1&rlz=1T4GGNI_enUS517US518&q=nissan+maxima+map+sensor&ion=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.42768644,d.dmQ&biw=1032&bih=480&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=fgspUbLAPNOp0AG5xoHwAgYour sensor on rockauto is 120 bucks.
Did you adjust the shoes so there was a little drag on the drum when you spin it by hand? Did you bleed the brakes? Part of a good brake job is bleeding the brakes and flushing the fluid if it hasn’t been done in the last couple of years.
Did you adjust the shoes so there was a little drag on the drum when you spin it by hand? Did you bleed the brakes? Part of a good brake job is bleeding the brakes and flushing the fluid if it hasn’t been done in the last couple of years.
I’m not familiar with that engine but I do the belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump if it’s in there, cam oil seals if needed. If you go to rock auto you can usually find kits with all the parts you will need. I just looked there and it looks like the kits come with belt, tensioner, pulley. So water pump must not be in the timing belt? I’m not sure if there are any special tools you need to set the timing on that engine or not.
I’m not familiar with that engine but I do the belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump if it’s in there, cam oil seals if needed. If you go to rock auto you can usually find kits with all the parts you will need. I just looked there and it looks like the kits come with belt, tensioner, pulley. So water pump must not be in the timing belt? I’m not sure if there are any special tools you need to set the timing on that engine or not.