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I would start by checking the fluid level. When you turned hard the fluid might have all went to one side causing a low fluid level where the sensor is. Then when the fluid leveled back out the light went out. Easy fix if that is what happened.
[quote=”Iam_william” post=51990]There are ways make your own, and even write ups/instructions for how to make this tool. However, this Dan Sullivan who is responsible for making and marketing the well designed and very convenient load pro leads has staked a lot in this tool and is having a lot of difficulty with other companies imitating and virtually steeling his product. I understand that it is sometimes hard to come up with extra money for tools, and in such dire times a little improvisation is needed. But, if I can say, please be kind to those who have taken the time, investment, and drive to invent and market something…
I love my leads, and really think the product is GREAT, it does what it says it will, and 70-80 dollars really isn’t that much money. Plus, the book that you have the option of buying with the test leads is a MUST read for the new technician and old technician a like.
Thanks,[/quote]
+1^^^^
Also just to add the test leads are really quality leads and have a feature I haven’t found on any other leads, hollow point tips. The tips are hollow which allow you to put them on pins and tabs and they won’t slip off like pointed tips. I really like the tips and keep them on my fluke at all times even when I don’t need the loadpro feature.
The book is also a nice read. It really goes into detail about electrical theory and is written in a way that anyone can understand. I was able to sit down and read it and understand it where most books just put me to sleep!
[quote=”Iam_william” post=51990]There are ways make your own, and even write ups/instructions for how to make this tool. However, this Dan Sullivan who is responsible for making and marketing the well designed and very convenient load pro leads has staked a lot in this tool and is having a lot of difficulty with other companies imitating and virtually steeling his product. I understand that it is sometimes hard to come up with extra money for tools, and in such dire times a little improvisation is needed. But, if I can say, please be kind to those who have taken the time, investment, and drive to invent and market something…
I love my leads, and really think the product is GREAT, it does what it says it will, and 70-80 dollars really isn’t that much money. Plus, the book that you have the option of buying with the test leads is a MUST read for the new technician and old technician a like.
Thanks,[/quote]
+1^^^^
Also just to add the test leads are really quality leads and have a feature I haven’t found on any other leads, hollow point tips. The tips are hollow which allow you to put them on pins and tabs and they won’t slip off like pointed tips. I really like the tips and keep them on my fluke at all times even when I don’t need the loadpro feature.
The book is also a nice read. It really goes into detail about electrical theory and is written in a way that anyone can understand. I was able to sit down and read it and understand it where most books just put me to sleep!
It’s not to bad but not the funnest. Here is a video I found that should give you an idea of what all is involved. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bkt9tfgJFdI
It’s not to bad but not the funnest. Here is a video I found that should give you an idea of what all is involved. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bkt9tfgJFdI
If your hazard lights work but the turn signals don’t I would lean towards the multi function switch or a short in the wiring.
If your hazard lights work but the turn signals don’t I would lean towards the multi function switch or a short in the wiring.
I have one of these for CV axles and love it, http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7507-Joint-Removing-Adapter/dp/B0002SRFLC/ref=sr_1_28?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362106630&sr=1-28&keywords=otc+slide+hammer. You use it with a slide hammer and it yanks the CV axle out. There is also an axle popper made by steck, I’ve never used it but it looks nice.
I have one of these for CV axles and love it, http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7507-Joint-Removing-Adapter/dp/B0002SRFLC/ref=sr_1_28?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362106630&sr=1-28&keywords=otc+slide+hammer. You use it with a slide hammer and it yanks the CV axle out. There is also an axle popper made by steck, I’ve never used it but it looks nice.
[quote=”drthrift035″ post=51666]Does anyone know of a 1 person method of bleeding the brake system ? Please let me know thanks.[/quote]
There are a couple ways to do it. I believe Eric has a video on using a plastic soda bottle to bleed the brakes. Cheap and works. Otherwise you can buy a bleeder, either pressure or vacuum. I personal like the vacuum method, don’t like the idea of brake fluid under pressure in case something were to go wrong and spray it all over. Also the motive pressure bleeder you have to have a different adapter for every make of vehicle you use it on. Where the mityvac vacuum bleeder works on all vehicles and pulls the fluid from the master to each wheel. It’s about 140 bucks but well worth it to me, even for a home mechanic. Most manufacturers are recomending brake fluid be changed now, most shops charge anywhere from 60-100 bucks so two flushes and you have your tool paid for.
[quote=”drthrift035″ post=51666]Does anyone know of a 1 person method of bleeding the brake system ? Please let me know thanks.[/quote]
There are a couple ways to do it. I believe Eric has a video on using a plastic soda bottle to bleed the brakes. Cheap and works. Otherwise you can buy a bleeder, either pressure or vacuum. I personal like the vacuum method, don’t like the idea of brake fluid under pressure in case something were to go wrong and spray it all over. Also the motive pressure bleeder you have to have a different adapter for every make of vehicle you use it on. Where the mityvac vacuum bleeder works on all vehicles and pulls the fluid from the master to each wheel. It’s about 140 bucks but well worth it to me, even for a home mechanic. Most manufacturers are recomending brake fluid be changed now, most shops charge anywhere from 60-100 bucks so two flushes and you have your tool paid for.
So what was the problem then?
If the car needed pads then the rotors at least needed to be turned. I assume you checked them with a run out gauge since you are so sure they didn’t need to be replaced or turned right? Sorry man slapping pads on isn’t the right way to do it. I didn’t make assumptions, I read your posts which stated the brake job wasn’t done the way it should have been. I’m not going to get into a pissing match, your customer and all. But there’s a lot more to a proper brake job then pad slapping it. If a customer won’t pay for a propere job then I would send them away so you don’t have to deal with problems that arrise like this. Good luck.
So what was the problem then?
If the car needed pads then the rotors at least needed to be turned. I assume you checked them with a run out gauge since you are so sure they didn’t need to be replaced or turned right? Sorry man slapping pads on isn’t the right way to do it. I didn’t make assumptions, I read your posts which stated the brake job wasn’t done the way it should have been. I’m not going to get into a pissing match, your customer and all. But there’s a lot more to a proper brake job then pad slapping it. If a customer won’t pay for a propere job then I would send them away so you don’t have to deal with problems that arrise like this. Good luck.
[quote=”2StrongMNG” post=51602]LOL yes i know to pump the brakes.. i do 20-30 brake jobs a week.. i wouldnt have posted this question if it wasnt rare.. ill try bleeding.. but again.. you shouldnt have to bleed brakes when changing pads… no air is introduced to the system[/quote]
20-30 brake jobs a week sounds like a shop. You say rotors and then you say drums, which is it? A good brake job includes new rotors or drums or machining the old rotors if there is enough stock on them. Just slapping pads on isn’t the right way to do a brake job. Did you clean and lube the slide pins of this is disc? That is also part of a good brake job along with bleeding or flushing the system. Most manufacturers recomend replacing brake fluid every so many miles or a certain time. Pad slapping is not a good way to do brake jobs.
If you didn’t open the bleeders when pushing the piston back into the caliper there may have been some crud at the bottom of the caliper that you pushed back into the lines. Dirty fluid tends to settle down in the caliper. Always open the bleeders when pushing the caliper back in. Buy a vacuum or pressure bleeder and charge a little more to bleed the system, since it’s recomended maintenance by most manufacturers.
This is why I tell people to go to a quality shop instead of just the cheapest shop. Slapping new pads on without addressing the rotors/drums is a sloppy way to do brake jobs. I know you probably won’t like reading this but it’s the truth. If you are a shop(doing 30 brake jobs a week) do your customers a favor and give them a full service brake job. It will also allow you to charge more for your quality service. New rotors/drums and a brake flush take an extra 15 minutes to do and can make some good proffit and your new pads will last longer. Most shops charge around 80-100 to flush the fluid. Charge 40-50 while you’re doing the brakes anyway, takes you 15 minutes.
[quote=”2StrongMNG” post=51602]LOL yes i know to pump the brakes.. i do 20-30 brake jobs a week.. i wouldnt have posted this question if it wasnt rare.. ill try bleeding.. but again.. you shouldnt have to bleed brakes when changing pads… no air is introduced to the system[/quote]
20-30 brake jobs a week sounds like a shop. You say rotors and then you say drums, which is it? A good brake job includes new rotors or drums or machining the old rotors if there is enough stock on them. Just slapping pads on isn’t the right way to do a brake job. Did you clean and lube the slide pins of this is disc? That is also part of a good brake job along with bleeding or flushing the system. Most manufacturers recomend replacing brake fluid every so many miles or a certain time. Pad slapping is not a good way to do brake jobs.
If you didn’t open the bleeders when pushing the piston back into the caliper there may have been some crud at the bottom of the caliper that you pushed back into the lines. Dirty fluid tends to settle down in the caliper. Always open the bleeders when pushing the caliper back in. Buy a vacuum or pressure bleeder and charge a little more to bleed the system, since it’s recomended maintenance by most manufacturers.
This is why I tell people to go to a quality shop instead of just the cheapest shop. Slapping new pads on without addressing the rotors/drums is a sloppy way to do brake jobs. I know you probably won’t like reading this but it’s the truth. If you are a shop(doing 30 brake jobs a week) do your customers a favor and give them a full service brake job. It will also allow you to charge more for your quality service. New rotors/drums and a brake flush take an extra 15 minutes to do and can make some good proffit and your new pads will last longer. Most shops charge around 80-100 to flush the fluid. Charge 40-50 while you’re doing the brakes anyway, takes you 15 minutes.