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One thing that I’m still wondering is if he actually did a head gasket job or not? Couple of things that lead me to this thought. First is just the fact he believes it’s “normal” to use stop leak after putting in a new gasket to fix the problem. Second is the amount he used, even if he thinks it’s beneficial to put stop leak in after a head gasket job I would expect he would use one bottle since “it’s just to seal things up faster”. But from your pictures it looks like he used way more than a bottle. These two things lead me to suspect he never did the head gaskets. I may be wrong here but if it was me I would want some serious proof that he did actually do the gasket job like you were charged for.
Sorry to hear about your medical issues and it’s really stand up of you not to want to just dump this on someone else, way to many people jsut ditch a bad car onto someone that doesn’t know better. What year is this vehicle and what do you have into it? I know you said you got it cheap. IF it’s not worth a lot for trade in I would consider just flushing the crap out of it the best you can and drive it till it dies, or deal with issues as they come up. While I’m 100% against stop leak products there is a chance it will never cause any damage. Another option would be to see if this mechanic would give you a 3 or so year warranty on the whole cooling system since it was his idea to add the stop leak and NO head gasket repair instructions that I’m aware of, factory manual or otherwise, tell you to add stop leak after a new head gasket. So he went against standard procedure.
Just some options.
One thing that I’m still wondering is if he actually did a head gasket job or not? Couple of things that lead me to this thought. First is just the fact he believes it’s “normal” to use stop leak after putting in a new gasket to fix the problem. Second is the amount he used, even if he thinks it’s beneficial to put stop leak in after a head gasket job I would expect he would use one bottle since “it’s just to seal things up faster”. But from your pictures it looks like he used way more than a bottle. These two things lead me to suspect he never did the head gaskets. I may be wrong here but if it was me I would want some serious proof that he did actually do the gasket job like you were charged for.
Sorry to hear about your medical issues and it’s really stand up of you not to want to just dump this on someone else, way to many people jsut ditch a bad car onto someone that doesn’t know better. What year is this vehicle and what do you have into it? I know you said you got it cheap. IF it’s not worth a lot for trade in I would consider just flushing the crap out of it the best you can and drive it till it dies, or deal with issues as they come up. While I’m 100% against stop leak products there is a chance it will never cause any damage. Another option would be to see if this mechanic would give you a 3 or so year warranty on the whole cooling system since it was his idea to add the stop leak and NO head gasket repair instructions that I’m aware of, factory manual or otherwise, tell you to add stop leak after a new head gasket. So he went against standard procedure.
Just some options.
I would start by hooking a fuel pressure gauge up and taking some readings. Also check out the fuel pressure regulator.
I would start by hooking a fuel pressure gauge up and taking some readings. Also check out the fuel pressure regulator.
Looks like you can use a face spanner wrench like some of these, http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_seeall_2?rh=k%3Aadjustable+face+spanner+wrench%2Ci%3Aautomotive&keywords=adjustable+face+spanner+wrench&ie=UTF8&qid=1362718080. You just have to make sure to get one that the pins fit in the slots that are there.
Looks like you can use a face spanner wrench like some of these, http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_seeall_2?rh=k%3Aadjustable+face+spanner+wrench%2Ci%3Aautomotive&keywords=adjustable+face+spanner+wrench&ie=UTF8&qid=1362718080. You just have to make sure to get one that the pins fit in the slots that are there.
They make a couple different tools for tie rods with no flats. http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-46600.aspx this one is just like the long tube with the interchangable sizes of flats but you tighten down the set screws and then turn the tube. http://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-946-Profile-Inner/dp/B0066PI154/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362613726&sr=1-3&keywords=tie+rod+tool, You tighten it down on the round part and then use an extension and ratchet to remove the tie rod.
They make a couple different tools for tie rods with no flats. http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-46600.aspx this one is just like the long tube with the interchangable sizes of flats but you tighten down the set screws and then turn the tube. http://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-946-Profile-Inner/dp/B0066PI154/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362613726&sr=1-3&keywords=tie+rod+tool, You tighten it down on the round part and then use an extension and ratchet to remove the tie rod.
Almost forgot about this! No more check engine light so hoping new plugs solved the problem. Thanks for the advice.
Almost forgot about this! No more check engine light so hoping new plugs solved the problem. Thanks for the advice.
You can “rent” the press and adapters at most auto parts stores. You have to pay full price for the tools and when you return them you get all your money back.
You can “rent” the press and adapters at most auto parts stores. You have to pay full price for the tools and when you return them you get all your money back.
[quote=”tassien4″ post=52015]I am about to undertake my first ever timing belt, water pump, etc replacement. I have heard mixed things about the difficulty. A few maintenance shops have advised me not to do it myself do the severe damage screwing it up can cause, but I would love any advice you guys have.
My 1997 Subaru Impreza 2.2L with 176k on it and is about 40k miles over the recommended replacement, but it is an interference engine (EJ22) which makes me a little apprehensive for my first timing belt job.
I am thinking about completing the job on my 2000 4runner V6 with 170k on it since it is only 10k from “needing” the service and is a noninterference engine. Do you think that is a good idea?
I am planning on replacing the: timing belt, all idlers, waterpump, and thermostat. Is there anything else I should do while I’m in there? I’ve heard of doing the crank and cam seals maybe?? Plus, any brand suggestions on the parts would be much appreciated. I’ve been leaning toward Gates at this point.
Also, I don’t have air tools and both vehicles are automatics so how should I get the crankshaft bolt off??
Thanks in advance!!
Noah[/quote]First thing I would do is search ebay for a factory manual, you can usually find them pretty cheap and the factory ones are better then the haynes manuals. Timing belts aren’t to bad but are a little intimidating on interference engines. But the manual while walk you threw it.
Replace the tensioner also. Seals are a judgement call, some say if they aren’t leaking to leave them alone, some say to always replace. I usually wait and see what they look like when I get in there and replace as necesary. I’ve had good luck with gates belt kits.
I don’t have experience with either of those engines but you should be able to get the crank bolt off with a breaker bar and cheater pipe if needed. Then will need a puller to get the balancer off. Search youtube for videos on your engines and see if there is any good info there.
[quote=”tassien4″ post=52015]I am about to undertake my first ever timing belt, water pump, etc replacement. I have heard mixed things about the difficulty. A few maintenance shops have advised me not to do it myself do the severe damage screwing it up can cause, but I would love any advice you guys have.
My 1997 Subaru Impreza 2.2L with 176k on it and is about 40k miles over the recommended replacement, but it is an interference engine (EJ22) which makes me a little apprehensive for my first timing belt job.
I am thinking about completing the job on my 2000 4runner V6 with 170k on it since it is only 10k from “needing” the service and is a noninterference engine. Do you think that is a good idea?
I am planning on replacing the: timing belt, all idlers, waterpump, and thermostat. Is there anything else I should do while I’m in there? I’ve heard of doing the crank and cam seals maybe?? Plus, any brand suggestions on the parts would be much appreciated. I’ve been leaning toward Gates at this point.
Also, I don’t have air tools and both vehicles are automatics so how should I get the crankshaft bolt off??
Thanks in advance!!
Noah[/quote]First thing I would do is search ebay for a factory manual, you can usually find them pretty cheap and the factory ones are better then the haynes manuals. Timing belts aren’t to bad but are a little intimidating on interference engines. But the manual while walk you threw it.
Replace the tensioner also. Seals are a judgement call, some say if they aren’t leaking to leave them alone, some say to always replace. I usually wait and see what they look like when I get in there and replace as necesary. I’ve had good luck with gates belt kits.
I don’t have experience with either of those engines but you should be able to get the crank bolt off with a breaker bar and cheater pipe if needed. Then will need a puller to get the balancer off. Search youtube for videos on your engines and see if there is any good info there.