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I personally don’t believe in the “lifetime” fluid crap. Of coarse the fluid is going to last the life of the tranny, but the real question is would your tranny have had a longer life if you had changed the fluid? My belief is that the fluid breaks down over time and loses some of it’s properties it needs to do it’s job. Changing it can’t hurt. Also believe that if you need a filter it needs to be changed, lot of newer cars have non serviceable filters now. You can also say your oil is “lifetime” and never change it, probably get a lot of miles out of until the engine dies. But the oil lasted the “lifetime” of the engine.
I change trans fluid and filter if possible every 30,000 miles no matter the make of vehicle or what the manufacturer says. Just my way weather it’s right or wrong.
[quote=”Passey” post=53174]It is the 5.7 vortec would I be ok to put the distributor in then drive three miles into town and have a shop do the computer part?[/quote]
First google to see if your 96 will have the same issue as the 98 I worked on, I’m not positive if it is or not. Just giving a heads up if it is. If it does need the scan tool then yes you should be able to get it close enough to drive. There is lots of info on how to set the distributor to TDC which will get you close. Then call a shop and see what they charge to hook up the scan tool and finish setting the timing for you.
[quote=”Passey” post=53174]It is the 5.7 vortec would I be ok to put the distributor in then drive three miles into town and have a shop do the computer part?[/quote]
First google to see if your 96 will have the same issue as the 98 I worked on, I’m not positive if it is or not. Just giving a heads up if it is. If it does need the scan tool then yes you should be able to get it close enough to drive. There is lots of info on how to set the distributor to TDC which will get you close. Then call a shop and see what they charge to hook up the scan tool and finish setting the timing for you.
Is this a 5.7 vortec? I”m not sure on the 96 but I worked on a 98 5.7L and learned that you HAVE to have a scan tool that reads cam retard in order to set the timing. You get the distributor close +/- 2 degrees and then have to use the scan tool to set final timing. Most sub 500 dollar scan tools won’t read cam retard on these either. Just a heads up if this does apply to your engine also.
Is this a 5.7 vortec? I”m not sure on the 96 but I worked on a 98 5.7L and learned that you HAVE to have a scan tool that reads cam retard in order to set the timing. You get the distributor close +/- 2 degrees and then have to use the scan tool to set final timing. Most sub 500 dollar scan tools won’t read cam retard on these either. Just a heads up if this does apply to your engine also.
I’m not a shop owner but have run into some issues helping others out with repairs and them wanting to buy parts. The problem you run into is people that don’t know that much about parts trying to pick the right part for their vehicle, all they see is price and will go with the cheapest parts they can find. There are some instances where OEM parts are almost manditory or where it pays to go with a higher priced higher quality part. People that want to bring their own parts usually are trying to save money or don’t trust you with their money. So they almost always will just get the cheapest parts.
Take spark plugs for instance. Most cars are pretty picky on what plugs they like. So if the owner just runs down to the closest parts store and gets the cheapest plugs and you install them and the car has a misfire or other issue a month down the road due to the plugs who’s fault is it? Obviously we know it’s most likely due to cheap plugs the car owner is going to blame you and want you to fix it for free, remember that whole thing about them being cheap? So now you have an arguement over who pays for new plugs and labor to install them. Most shops use quality parts and offer a warranty on them.
I’ve heard of shops making customers sign a sheet saying NO warranty on parts they bring in.
I’m not a shop owner but have run into some issues helping others out with repairs and them wanting to buy parts. The problem you run into is people that don’t know that much about parts trying to pick the right part for their vehicle, all they see is price and will go with the cheapest parts they can find. There are some instances where OEM parts are almost manditory or where it pays to go with a higher priced higher quality part. People that want to bring their own parts usually are trying to save money or don’t trust you with their money. So they almost always will just get the cheapest parts.
Take spark plugs for instance. Most cars are pretty picky on what plugs they like. So if the owner just runs down to the closest parts store and gets the cheapest plugs and you install them and the car has a misfire or other issue a month down the road due to the plugs who’s fault is it? Obviously we know it’s most likely due to cheap plugs the car owner is going to blame you and want you to fix it for free, remember that whole thing about them being cheap? So now you have an arguement over who pays for new plugs and labor to install them. Most shops use quality parts and offer a warranty on them.
I’ve heard of shops making customers sign a sheet saying NO warranty on parts they bring in.
Do you have insurance? I would call and ask what their policy is for windshields, lots of them have free replacements. Just tell them you don’t know what happened since you kind of don’t know. I was told one time it was a law or something because they don’t want you chasing semis and dumptrucks to get their license plates when a stone chips your window, not sure if that’s true or not.
Do you have insurance? I would call and ask what their policy is for windshields, lots of them have free replacements. Just tell them you don’t know what happened since you kind of don’t know. I was told one time it was a law or something because they don’t want you chasing semis and dumptrucks to get their license plates when a stone chips your window, not sure if that’s true or not.
Sounds like your bleeder is blocked. When you clamped off the brake line and opened the bleeder and couldn’t press the piston back in the caliper it was because with a blocked bleeder the fluid had no where to go. Once you took the clamp off the line the fluid was able to be pressed back towards the master and fluid resovoir.
I’m not sure about the soft spot in your brakes, might be air in the lines. In my opinion a good brake job includes a fluid flush which you can do yourself. Also many manufacturers are making changing the fluid part of recomended maintenance. Brake fluid is hydroscopic(SP) and absorbs water. If it’s left in for years moisture from hot/cold cycles will get in the fluid and start to break it down. You can do the two person method for brake bleeding to replace all the fluid but I use a vacuum bleeder. You might be able to clear up your blocked bleeder by having a helper sit in the vehicle and pump the brakes a couple times and hold it. While you loosen the bleeder, sometimes the pressure from the brake fluid will push the blockage out the bleeder. Then while they are still holding the pedal down tighten the bleeder and repeat as needed. But try and clean the bleeder first with a pick or small drill bit by hand, don’t use a drill! Then try to push the blockage out with the brake fluid. Put a 2×4 under the brake pedal so it’s not allowed to drop all the way to the floor while your helper is pumping it. Sometimes since the pedal isn’t used to going that far there is some build up of gunk on the master and you can ruin a seal if you let it go farther then it’s used to.
There should be some videos on youtube about bleeding brakes and I think Eric even has one.
Sounds like your bleeder is blocked. When you clamped off the brake line and opened the bleeder and couldn’t press the piston back in the caliper it was because with a blocked bleeder the fluid had no where to go. Once you took the clamp off the line the fluid was able to be pressed back towards the master and fluid resovoir.
I’m not sure about the soft spot in your brakes, might be air in the lines. In my opinion a good brake job includes a fluid flush which you can do yourself. Also many manufacturers are making changing the fluid part of recomended maintenance. Brake fluid is hydroscopic(SP) and absorbs water. If it’s left in for years moisture from hot/cold cycles will get in the fluid and start to break it down. You can do the two person method for brake bleeding to replace all the fluid but I use a vacuum bleeder. You might be able to clear up your blocked bleeder by having a helper sit in the vehicle and pump the brakes a couple times and hold it. While you loosen the bleeder, sometimes the pressure from the brake fluid will push the blockage out the bleeder. Then while they are still holding the pedal down tighten the bleeder and repeat as needed. But try and clean the bleeder first with a pick or small drill bit by hand, don’t use a drill! Then try to push the blockage out with the brake fluid. Put a 2×4 under the brake pedal so it’s not allowed to drop all the way to the floor while your helper is pumping it. Sometimes since the pedal isn’t used to going that far there is some build up of gunk on the master and you can ruin a seal if you let it go farther then it’s used to.
There should be some videos on youtube about bleeding brakes and I think Eric even has one.
He said the starter was drawing 80 amps while at rest? Or was the 80 amps while trying to start the vehicle? 80 amps is a large number. Your parasitic drain test looks more accurate at .03x MV.
He said the starter was drawing 80 amps while at rest? Or was the 80 amps while trying to start the vehicle? 80 amps is a large number. Your parasitic drain test looks more accurate at .03x MV.
Well if you saw the heads off then I would say he did install new gaskets. I just can’t for the life of me understand why any mechanic would want to add stop leak after putting new gaskets in.
I’m not sure what trade in is on that year of truck but I wouldn’t expect it to be to much. If it was me I would drive it until something goes wrong. You might get a month or you might get 5 years, who knows.
Well if you saw the heads off then I would say he did install new gaskets. I just can’t for the life of me understand why any mechanic would want to add stop leak after putting new gaskets in.
I’m not sure what trade in is on that year of truck but I wouldn’t expect it to be to much. If it was me I would drive it until something goes wrong. You might get a month or you might get 5 years, who knows.