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[quote=”Alfred2189″ post=54700]Thanks for the replies, I guess I’ll just stay away from it. I’m assuming its leaking, but that assumption is only based on the ever growing white smoke out the tail pipe. I guess I’ll try to hit it with the blue devil. I’m not one for using deal rants and what not, but the blue devil, well it seems to be a pretty sure thing. Thanks again everyone![/quote]
The only “sure thing” about blue devil is that it’s not a sure thing that it’ll work. I would NOT put anything in until you do more testing. While white smoke can indicate a blown head gasket it isn’t a for sure diagnoses. You need to do some tests to see if you actually have a blown gasket before throwing chemicals into your system that can cause more problems then good. A block test is a good test to see if you have a blown head gasket and doesn’t cost much. Also a leak down tester can help find a blown head gasket. Before putting any chemicals in do some more testing. If you do have a head gasket leak I would strongly suggest not using any fast fix including blue devil. Fix it right.
[quote=”Alfred2189″ post=54700]Thanks for the replies, I guess I’ll just stay away from it. I’m assuming its leaking, but that assumption is only based on the ever growing white smoke out the tail pipe. I guess I’ll try to hit it with the blue devil. I’m not one for using deal rants and what not, but the blue devil, well it seems to be a pretty sure thing. Thanks again everyone![/quote]
The only “sure thing” about blue devil is that it’s not a sure thing that it’ll work. I would NOT put anything in until you do more testing. While white smoke can indicate a blown head gasket it isn’t a for sure diagnoses. You need to do some tests to see if you actually have a blown gasket before throwing chemicals into your system that can cause more problems then good. A block test is a good test to see if you have a blown head gasket and doesn’t cost much. Also a leak down tester can help find a blown head gasket. Before putting any chemicals in do some more testing. If you do have a head gasket leak I would strongly suggest not using any fast fix including blue devil. Fix it right.
[quote=”utitech93″ post=54584]Hey Eric so the problem was that it was low on brake fluid I topped it off and its all good now[/quote]
Like mentioned the fluid level will drop as the pads wear. So if you go to replace the pads and just push the caliper piston back in you can make a mess of the fluid if there is too much in the master cylinder. Lot of times the fluid level is a very good indicator of pad wear.
[quote=”utitech93″ post=54584]Hey Eric so the problem was that it was low on brake fluid I topped it off and its all good now[/quote]
Like mentioned the fluid level will drop as the pads wear. So if you go to replace the pads and just push the caliper piston back in you can make a mess of the fluid if there is too much in the master cylinder. Lot of times the fluid level is a very good indicator of pad wear.
I had a 2000 focus that was running rough and idling like it was missing. Ended up being a motor mount bolt had cracked somehow. Probably pretty rare cause of rough idle but something to keep in mind. I spent a good deal of time chasing down the normal rough idle things until I found the broken bolt.
I had a 2000 focus that was running rough and idling like it was missing. Ended up being a motor mount bolt had cracked somehow. Probably pretty rare cause of rough idle but something to keep in mind. I spent a good deal of time chasing down the normal rough idle things until I found the broken bolt.
Really hard to read and take a post serious when there are more faces with tongues sticking out then words.
Can you take a picture of your caliper and the leak you can see?
Really hard to read and take a post serious when there are more faces with tongues sticking out then words.
Can you take a picture of your caliper and the leak you can see?
How did you bleed the brakes? Did you do it old fashioned with one person pushing the brake pedal while you open the bleeder? If so did the brake pedal get pushed all the way to the floor? If the pedal got pushed all the way to the floor chances are you damaged the seals on the master. The pedal isn’t used to going all the way to the floor and when it does while bleeding the brakes it can damage the seals. I usually put a 2×4″ under the pedal to prevent this.
How did you bleed the brakes? Did you do it old fashioned with one person pushing the brake pedal while you open the bleeder? If so did the brake pedal get pushed all the way to the floor? If the pedal got pushed all the way to the floor chances are you damaged the seals on the master. The pedal isn’t used to going all the way to the floor and when it does while bleeding the brakes it can damage the seals. I usually put a 2×4″ under the pedal to prevent this.
I’ve never used a pressure bleeder but they get a lot of good reviews, especially the motive bleeder. Most dealerships use a pressure bleeder also from what I have seen. I chose a vacuum bleeder. The mityvac MV6835, http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv6835.aspx. It basically does the reverse. It has an auto refill bottle that goes on the master and uses shop air to suck new fluid threw the system from each wheel bleeder. It’s quick and easy and works on all vehicles. The pressure bleeders need a cap to fit each vehicle. The mityvac pressure bleeder you show is 280 bucks, the motive is cheaper but you have to buy a cap adapter for each vehicle so the price adds up. The mityvac vacuum bleeder is 140 bucks or so and no adapters needed. I also wasn’t to fond of having brake fluid under pressure.
I’ve never used a pressure bleeder but they get a lot of good reviews, especially the motive bleeder. Most dealerships use a pressure bleeder also from what I have seen. I chose a vacuum bleeder. The mityvac MV6835, http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv6835.aspx. It basically does the reverse. It has an auto refill bottle that goes on the master and uses shop air to suck new fluid threw the system from each wheel bleeder. It’s quick and easy and works on all vehicles. The pressure bleeders need a cap to fit each vehicle. The mityvac pressure bleeder you show is 280 bucks, the motive is cheaper but you have to buy a cap adapter for each vehicle so the price adds up. The mityvac vacuum bleeder is 140 bucks or so and no adapters needed. I also wasn’t to fond of having brake fluid under pressure.
I personally don’t believe in the “lifetime” fluid crap. Of coarse the fluid is going to last the life of the tranny, but the real question is would your tranny have had a longer life if you had changed the fluid? My belief is that the fluid breaks down over time and loses some of it’s properties it needs to do it’s job. Changing it can’t hurt. Also believe that if you need a filter it needs to be changed, lot of newer cars have non serviceable filters now. You can also say your oil is “lifetime” and never change it, probably get a lot of miles out of until the engine dies. But the oil lasted the “lifetime” of the engine.
I change trans fluid and filter if possible every 30,000 miles no matter the make of vehicle or what the manufacturer says. Just my way weather it’s right or wrong.