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Ok so i really messed up here. I do believe now that the wire wheel i used scored the surface and i will have to get them resurfaced. thanks everyone for your input. at this moment i just pasted silicone on the outer seem where it seals and leaks and it has temporarily helped on the top part so i can drive the car. I will attempt to have them resurfaced but i dont know if i will find anyone to do it yet (my country sucks with regards to these things) and hope it works out will keep you all posted.
u can look into ribbon sealer and see if thats a better option for you but clear silicone is cheap and works
u can look into ribbon sealer and see if thats a better option for you but clear silicone is cheap and works
it could be one of the doors in the dashboard has collapsed but check ur cabin air filter first and make sure its clean and allows air through
it could be one of the doors in the dashboard has collapsed but check ur cabin air filter first and make sure its clean and allows air through
it could be the throttle position sensor gone bad try checking that use a multimeter and look for a dead spot or any unusual readings.
it could be the throttle position sensor gone bad try checking that use a multimeter and look for a dead spot or any unusual readings.
I am pretty sure that nothing got in the way, as for slipping i placed it on the studs and it fitted snug, i also checked to make sure i put it the correct way as there was a single extra hole on one side, there was very little of the older gasket materials remaining and thats also why i decided to use the shellac to help. So i took it down again to recheck my work and everything i said above was true. the shellac also seemed to have sealed it nicely. i was unsure what to do so left the gasket that came off on the manifold side on their and cleaned the head again and then i used grey rtv silicone ( i know its not a good idea as it will dissolve in the gas but i tried it just to see if it would seal for a little bit) and this did not help. i put everything back up and it still did not work same problem leaking everywhere. i then just wanted the car to at lease run so i took the rtv and filled to reachable top part of the manifold seam where it meets the head with silicone and only then did it seal on the top part but i am not feeling satisfied with this and it it still leaking on the underside. I dont know what to do anymore
I am pretty sure that nothing got in the way, as for slipping i placed it on the studs and it fitted snug, i also checked to make sure i put it the correct way as there was a single extra hole on one side, there was very little of the older gasket materials remaining and thats also why i decided to use the shellac to help. So i took it down again to recheck my work and everything i said above was true. the shellac also seemed to have sealed it nicely. i was unsure what to do so left the gasket that came off on the manifold side on their and cleaned the head again and then i used grey rtv silicone ( i know its not a good idea as it will dissolve in the gas but i tried it just to see if it would seal for a little bit) and this did not help. i put everything back up and it still did not work same problem leaking everywhere. i then just wanted the car to at lease run so i took the rtv and filled to reachable top part of the manifold seam where it meets the head with silicone and only then did it seal on the top part but i am not feeling satisfied with this and it it still leaking on the underside. I dont know what to do anymore
Eric is right, for most applications its 10w-30 for 0c and above, and 20w-40 and 20-50 also works in that range but will negatively affect fuel economy and acceleration in my experience.
Eric is right, for most applications its 10w-30 for 0c and above, and 20w-40 and 20-50 also works in that range but will negatively affect fuel economy and acceleration in my experience.
the bottom line here is that the compressor is continuously running, that means the evaporator will not stop getting cold and will freeze and condensation on it. when all the ice is built up in the evaporator hardly any air will flow through resulting less airflow to your vents making it seems like the blower is not blowing but the air just cant pass. when the air cant pass the evaporator will freeze up even more because it does not get any heat to dissipate so even your low side line will freeze up. to fix this u have to look at everything that controls when the compressor shuts off, like the low pressure cut out switch or your thermostat in the evaporator, if your system in controlled by a hvac computer then it may have a temperature control sensor replacing the thermostat. hope this helps
the bottom line here is that the compressor is continuously running, that means the evaporator will not stop getting cold and will freeze and condensation on it. when all the ice is built up in the evaporator hardly any air will flow through resulting less airflow to your vents making it seems like the blower is not blowing but the air just cant pass. when the air cant pass the evaporator will freeze up even more because it does not get any heat to dissipate so even your low side line will freeze up. to fix this u have to look at everything that controls when the compressor shuts off, like the low pressure cut out switch or your thermostat in the evaporator, if your system in controlled by a hvac computer then it may have a temperature control sensor replacing the thermostat. hope this helps