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Hey Eric,
Here is a tricky one on my brother’s Nissan AD ( does not exist in the US). its the 1.5l same platform as the sentra se-r. the problem is it burns gas because there is poor fuel economy along with black soot on the bumper. however when on WOT the o2 sensor is pegged lean which would be false because the fuel wont be burning. the spark plugs and coil packs are all good and im unsure as to what to do next.
Hmmm, do you think i should swap out my distributor with another that i have then?? also i saw my pcv valve was leaking oil so i changed it like yesterday cant say if it made a difference yet but that could mean that there is alot of carbon buildup in d engine. I uploaded a haynes manual and pictures of the distributor. i believe that screw on top of it is what u were refering to.
Well the hoses are connected pretty much where they were since i bought the car, but worth a check. What i did lately is advance the timing on the distributor and the car felt much better and got faster but the engine pinged, so i retarded it back to the original. I’ll attempt to get the engine timed. it might solve the no power at high rpms but will it solve my poor mpg?. Oh and one other clue i dont remember giving was that when i dont get low power at high rpms i also get the smell of gas. and gas stains the my fuel bowl vents and throat before the venturi. idk if it will give another clue.
Ok, so i connected the vacuum gauge to the top hose first and it read just like manifold vacuum. Then i connected it to the second line and it read no vacuum at idle and it increased when i increased the rpms. I kno that advance can be checked with a timing light and while increasing the rpms. i just dont have a timing light. and yeah you may get information on the car with a 1.6 injected engine but the ones with the carb came to mine with the 1.3 and some swapped to the 1.5 which is what i have.
If you do want to replace the compressor, then be sure to have your refrigerant removed by an ac shop first. Then disconnect your lines and unbolt the compressor. Once the compressor is out, then u should also replace the drier or accumulator, whichever the system has, and orifice if it has one as well. Be sure to change your seals where to disconnect the lines. I would reseal the entire system if it was easy enough. be sure to add oil to your new compressor if it didnt come with oil in it and then u would be good enough to head to a shop and get vacuumed and add refrigerant.
I have the E5 engine with the electronic ignition, thankfully. I do have another distributor lying around that i can swap the module over to and install if anything. I know that my timing is not too accurate but it is close. I do not have a timing light unfortunately but i can at least static time it. I also do not have access to a hand vacuum pump. They just dont sell those things alot in my country. What do you think i should do?? I have not tinkered to much with the timing.
Ok people
I put a vacuum gauge on it and held the engine rpms to about 2500 and it held the vacuum. So I now I have no idea what is going oni read this entire post because the subjects was calling all nissan techs lol. bear in mind nissan are usually very simple vehicles from my experience. there are 2 things i see that u should look at here and try to rule out first. that is the O2 sensor and the fuel pump.U already Ruled out the fuel pump. so the next thing is the O2. Try switching the upstream and downstream sensors and see if it make any difference
i read this entire post because the subjects was calling all nissan techs lol. bear in mind nissan are usually very simple vehicles from my experience. there are 2 things i see that u should look at here and try to rule out first. that is the O2 sensor and the fuel pump.U already Ruled out the fuel pump. so the next thing is the O2. Try switching the upstream and downstream sensors and see if it make any difference
if its a japanese or asian vehicle
go right ahead and push it in without bleeding.
American vehicles, not so much, better to bleed it.u only have to push it in when installing new brake pads, because they will be thicker and need more room for the caliper to go in.
if its a japanese or asian vehicle
go right ahead and push it in without bleeding.
American vehicles, not so much, better to bleed it.u only have to push it in when installing new brake pads, because they will be thicker and need more room for the caliper to go in.
