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Ok, I got it done today. I tried using one of these inline fuse holders, that fits into the fuse port/fusebox. Damned thing was not conducting!! Nothing!! So i got out my new PowerProbe 3 and did me some testing.. actually started the engine using the powerprobe!!
I took the 12v from a live/hot wire, the white one going to the scr. Yhen I connected the killswitch/startbutton on this line, and reconnected to the white/black cable going into the relay. i have not ‘capped’ the ignition switch’s connection yet, so both starts are still possible.
I installed the panel, along with a PLX DM-6 gauge, in my sunglass cubby, up by the maplights.
Heres a quick pic of the install, and a vid of the starting:
[video src="http://vid410.photobucket.com/albums/pp189/mounty_guy/20160416_172829_zpstovxjtsh.mp4" /]
Markus
You drive an EM2?? 2 dr coupe?? The car already has either 115 or 127 hp. It has a fairly good acceleration, topspeed not so, but it’s fast enough for us/canada streets. There is nothing you can really do that would make you happy, with that 1,7 l engine, unless you went turbo/supercharger. For the money that would cost, you could swap in a K20/K24 from civic si/civic type r/RSX/TSX. A little mods here and there and without turbo/sc, you have good 220-230 horsies. A nice configuration for a vehicle with such a light body.. You can recon with 150-170 wtq, so she would pull in every gear…
Markus
Cost effective and tuning… do they really belong together in one sentence? Let us call it ‘optimizing’.
Like the others have stated: Maintenance is the key… if you install any power adders, that will usually require more maintenance, just for up-keep
Power adders, if done wrong/misconfigured, will cause stress to other parts of the vehicle, if they have not also been ‘brought up to par’.
Power is good, power is, well, power, but does the vehicle have the power to brake that power too?? I would not want a 300 hp monster with drum brakes
Never-the-less, it’s your car/time/money. No matter what anyone writes here, it’s your call…
Tuning is such a muli-facetted hobby. There is not one single person out there that can ‘do-it-all’ to perfection. Mechanics, upholstery, electricians/hifi pros, bodywork, painters… choose your poison, bro…Markus
Morning! I did as asked, and shot a few more pages aswell, more for me, as reference. I took a look at the lines you put on the diagram, and i do not understand what you are trying to show me… maybe the new pics will help clarify?
Regards
MarkusOk, did screenshots.. helluvalot easier.. thanks for that too!!
I believe i must “Take’ the normal 12v off the Ignition from WHT/RED (Terminal no. 5 on SCR)
I deliver the electricity to starter via BLK/WHT (Terminal no. 2 SCR/as-is/OEM??)
Do i have to deliver juice to terminal no. 4 via killswitch/startbutton combo and leave terminal no. 2 alone??
Pix/Screenshots:hello gents, thanks for both your replies!!
@ Dafirnz: Affirmative, yessir, that is what i am/was looking at doing… Having the key in the ignition, at Pos. 1, and using the ‘button’ to fire the engine. I believe I “must’ splice into the wire between the Ignition Pos. 2 and the Start Cut relay, using the SCR.
The 12v I need to power the fire-button, i can take anywhere, no?? If the Ignition is ON/Motor not running, Or i could power it right from the battery, via the killswitch and then run the wire down to the relay…Using an inline fuse of course….???
Yes, i will post manual print-outs.. I cannot copy/paste single pages due to copyright restrictions, so i have to print the (single) pages and then scan them in.. already have a pile printed.. just have to sift through and see what is needed… should i ‘highlight’ what i believe is the route i should go/take??Thanks again for your help!!
Markus
