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I took off the switches at each door. I used a piece of wire to successfully control each window. Therefore I know the switches are bad. I surprised because it turns out that every single switch was bad, but that’s what it turned out to be.
After speaking with several people, I have determined that it’s okay if the belt walks to one side or another as long as it is completely on the camshaft sprocket. In other words, as long as no part of the part is hanging off of the camshaft sprocket it’s fine. My belt was completely on the camshaft sprocket, it just wasn’t completely centered. Thanks to everyone for their help.
When I put the bracket back on after replacing the water pump, it was slightly out of place. There a little extra room around the holes for bolts in the bracket that allows it to be adjust slightly. After adjustment, I was able to reinstall the alternator. Check out my YouTube demonstrating how the bracket can be moved slightly. Thanks to everyone for their help.
After speaking to a few people about the belt walk, I have gotten feedback that it is okay as long as all of the belt is on the camshaft sprocket. In other words, none of the belt is hanging out over the camshaft sprocket at all. It just isn’t perfectly centered.
As far as the white smoke it seems to have cleared up. Also the downstream O2 is now back to reading around .750V
Thanks to everyone for their help.
After doing some research, I tried pulling the battery connections to reset the ECM instead of using my scan tool as I had done in the past. After completing another drive cycle, the P0133 was actually gone. I have a P0420 DTC, however I know the cat to be shot on the car. On to replacing the cat. Thanks to everyone for their help.
I tried bench bleeding the MC again. I put it back on the car and kept bleeding the brakes with the two man method, and the motive power bleeder. After I kept working it I eventually got the pedal back. Thanks to everyone for their help.
The gasket replacement went very smoothly. It was a metal gasket so there was nothing to scrap off of the block or manifold. I just put the new gasket on, torqued the nuts down from the center out, and everything was good to go. A few months later, I eventually replaced the manifold with a junkyard manifold. The junkyard manifold had a lot of rust on it, so I cleaned it up with a 3M Scotch-Brite Roloc Brake Hub Cleaning Disc Kit that I use to clean up the hub and brake rotor hats. Again, I installed the manifold from the center out at the specified torque spec. I started up the car and listened for exhaust leaks and everything was fine. Thanks to everyone for their help.
Here is an answer I received on another forum that I thought was a great explanation.
I know the Global OBD PID’s you’re looking at, and they’re very confusing! The short answer is that the O2 fuel trim PIDs are meaningless, and can be safely ignored. Nothing about the vehicles fuel control is actually getting trimmed to 99% (in the case of B1S2), and the data you see doesn’t reflect anything about O2 performance.
Long answer is that it has to do with SAE standards, and how the vehicle communicates with the scanner over Global OBD. The 99.2% value you saw for B1S2 is the default value for an O2 sensor that has no contribution to the fuel control strategy. The default value HAS to be there because the scanner requests the value of that PID from the PCM, and the PCM is required to send something.
Thanks to everyone for their input.
I bought rebuilt Hyundai calipers because I didn’t like the slop in caliper move when I slid it from side to side. I also bought new pads and rotors, all from RockAuto. When I replaced the rotors, I cleaned the hub up really well, it was very rusty. I have read the hub, as well as the rotor hat should be cleaned up as excessive rust can cause lateral runout. After the replacement, so far the pedal pulsation is gone. Thanks to everyone for their help.
Thanks for the reassurance. I finished the job and everything is fine. Thanks to everyone their help.
The book really screwed me over on this one. The voltage I observed was correct, there should be 5V when the CKPS is disconnected. So I needlessly bought an engine computer. At least it was only $70 at the junk yard. I fixed this car actually by replacing the fuel pump. I also replace the cam and crankshaft position sensors. I also fixed an air gap issue on the camshaft position sensor. I started down this rabbit hole because I had a no start condition with a P0335. I don’t know if poorly written computer software would cause a P0335 DTC with a bad fuel pump. Or if the DTC was coincidental and had nothing to do with the no start condition, which was fixed with the new cam and crankshaft position sensors. Thanks to everyone for their help.
I ended up ruining my compression gauge by putting too much oil in the one of the cylinders. I bought a new one and tested again, and I didn’t have the discrepancy in the two cylinders, all were roughly the same. I believe my gauge was faulty. I had done cooling system work subsequently on the car and it was able to hold pressure. So for now I’m going to just leave it as it is.
I installed the stud with the short end in first, it was a little shorter than the other studs but there was still plenty of stud for the nut to grab onto. You don’t need a lot of torque as mentioned by relative4. I went maybe a turn or two past hand tight with the two nut method. Others I have spoken to suggested just hand tighten the stud while torquing the nut to the proper torque spec. The torque spec for my car was relatively little torque, maybe 30 foot pounds or so.
Fixing just the missing stud didn’t fix the code. I had to also replace the exhaust manifold gasket as well. Interestingly, I also had to reset the ECM by pulling the battery connections for a few minutes. When I cleared the codes with my scan tool and ran another drive cycle, the P0133 DTC kept coming back. After some research, it was suggested that I try resetting the ECM by pulling the ECM fuse or disconnecting the battery. After I disconnected the battery and ran another drive cycle, the P0133 was gone and replace with a P0420 DTC. I know the cat is shot on this car, thus the corresponding P0420. Onto replacing the cat.
It also turned out to the be fuel filler neck on her car. On my 1996 Honda Accord, it is behind a plastic cover in the wheel well. In my mom’s Elantra, it’s not behind a cover so it is more exposed to the elements. There were several spots that were completely rusted out. I replaced the filler neck and the EVAP codes are good as gone. The tank can now be completely filled as well. Thanks to everyone for their help.
I replaced the catalytic converter to fix the flex pipe. The code was still there however. I noticed that a stud was missing from the exhaust manifold. I put a new stud in, replaced the exhaust manifold gasket which ended up fixing the issue. Not after replacement, I still had the same code P0133. After some research, I found that sometimes its necessary to do a soft reset of the ECM by either pulling the fuse, or simply disconnecting the battery for a little while. Clearing the codes with the scan tool wasn’t enough. After doing a soft reset and completing a drive cycle the code was gone and replaced with P0420. I know the cat on the car if shot so I believe the code to be justified. On the replacing the cat. Thanks for your help everyone.