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When are you going to do another video with ScannerDanner. I heard he is a pretty cool dude 🙂
From your description and from watching that video. Your transmission is slipping. Forget about the other codes and symptoms right now, you have a neutral condition above 3000 rpm. No engine sensor or misfire or compression or fuel trim issues or long crank times or fuel psi problems will cause that.
From your description and from watching that video. Your transmission is slipping. Forget about the other codes and symptoms right now, you have a neutral condition above 3000 rpm. No engine sensor or misfire or compression or fuel trim issues or long crank times or fuel psi problems will cause that.
disconnect the alternator and see if your speedo acts normal. if it does one of your diodes in the alternator is bad and is pumping ac voltage into your system
disconnect the alternator and see if your speedo acts normal. if it does one of your diodes in the alternator is bad and is pumping ac voltage into your system
agree with Eric. There are no capabilities for single cylinder lean condition identification. you would need an O2 sensor for every cylinder. if you now have a 172 code this is a rich condition code not lean.
PO171 & PO174 = lean conditions
PO172 & PO175 = Rich conditionsFirst test I would do is check for a failing headset. Coolant contaminates the 02 and causes false rich conditions. also you can get cylinder specific and random misfire codes. Also you will NOT fix a P0172 code with a tune up…ever.
agree with Eric. There are no capabilities for single cylinder lean condition identification. you would need an O2 sensor for every cylinder. if you now have a 172 code this is a rich condition code not lean.
PO171 & PO174 = lean conditions
PO172 & PO175 = Rich conditionsFirst test I would do is check for a failing headset. Coolant contaminates the 02 and causes false rich conditions. also you can get cylinder specific and random misfire codes. Also you will NOT fix a P0172 code with a tune up…ever.
my bet is when you check those trouble codes is they are misfire related. it is very common to have a bad plug or bad plug wire cause this type of condition. it is very common to feel misfiring more so during the conditions you described. the reason why is the torque converter clutch locks up and transmits more pronounced engine vibrations. these are very commonly misdiagnosed as transmission problems
my bet is when you check those trouble codes is they are misfire related. it is very common to have a bad plug or bad plug wire cause this type of condition. it is very common to feel misfiring more so during the conditions you described. the reason why is the torque converter clutch locks up and transmits more pronounced engine vibrations. these are very commonly misdiagnosed as transmission problems
these are known for the u joint in the steering column to bind up. A friend of mine hAd success by just spraying his with some penetrAting oil
these are known for the u joint in the steering column to bind up. A friend of mine hAd success by just spraying his with some penetrAting oil
take the distributor cap off, then the rotor, and then the black plastic piece underneath the rotor and see if there is oil in the optical distributor. this is a very common problem and can cause what you are describing. oil will block the slots in the drive plate and prevent the optical distributor from creating the correct signals. this will cause the computer to not fire the coil at the proper time for particular cylinders and also the injectors
take the distributor cap off, then the rotor, and then the black plastic piece underneath the rotor and see if there is oil in the optical distributor. this is a very common problem and can cause what you are describing. oil will block the slots in the drive plate and prevent the optical distributor from creating the correct signals. this will cause the computer to not fire the coil at the proper time for particular cylinders and also the injectors
[quote=”Digger89L” post=43837][quote=”college man” post=43821]see if this helps
Very much appreciate the info in the video …but, again, not pointing in the right direction: I now know that I have spark, I have fuel flow, and (to make a sensible assumption) I likely have decent compression because the engine was starting easily, and running smoothly until it got cold outside. I put that in bold print because no one yet has taken that point seriously: the engine started and ran fine until it got cold out a month or so back. That is the only variable that has changed in the equation: warm outside – starts fine; cold outside – no start. I know its possible, but it would be a HUGE coincidence if any of these other possible things occurred (no spark, no fuel, no compression, bad crank sensor, etc.) on the exact same day the weather turned cold. Do I sound frustrated? ….you bet!![/quote]
The first things to do when it does not start is to check your fuel pressure. you said you have fuel but it may not be enough.. if you do not have a pressure gauge, you can try and see if it will start with propane or carb clean. if it does then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. another potential problem would be a skewed coolant temperature sensor. do you have access to a scan tool that will allow you to read the coolant temperature? if the coolant temperature sensor is reading a higher than normal temperature this could cause a no start during very cold temperatures[quote=”Digger89L” post=43837][quote=”college man” post=43821]see if this helps
Very much appreciate the info in the video …but, again, not pointing in the right direction: I now know that I have spark, I have fuel flow, and (to make a sensible assumption) I likely have decent compression because the engine was starting easily, and running smoothly until it got cold outside. I put that in bold print because no one yet has taken that point seriously: the engine started and ran fine until it got cold out a month or so back. That is the only variable that has changed in the equation: warm outside – starts fine; cold outside – no start. I know its possible, but it would be a HUGE coincidence if any of these other possible things occurred (no spark, no fuel, no compression, bad crank sensor, etc.) on the exact same day the weather turned cold. Do I sound frustrated? ….you bet!![/quote]
The first things to do when it does not start is to check your fuel pressure. you said you have fuel but it may not be enough.. if you do not have a pressure gauge, you can try and see if it will start with propane or carb clean. if it does then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. another potential problem would be a skewed coolant temperature sensor. do you have access to a scan tool that will allow you to read the coolant temperature? if the coolant temperature sensor is reading a higher than normal temperature this could cause a no start during very cold temperatures -
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