[NoName]

I believe I found the culprit: the roof channel is a bit loose right behind the B pillar area. It did not get wet since I put the duct tape on.

[NoName]

Thank you Chris.
I did not check the floor specifically but everything else around the belt and the door seal seems to be dry. I’ll try to remove the covers and check further.

Thank you.

[NoName]

Sorry, I missed that – 2013 Honda Accord EX

[NoName]

[quote=”nightflyr” post=188713]If the rear rotors shown no warping, and it gives you some peace of mind to replace the pads …
By all means replace them.
In the end you need to feel comfortable driving the vehicle.[/quote]

Thanks. I will feel comfortable either way, I am just asking what’s “better” (for the lack of a better word) in this case.

[NoName]

I’ll change both front rotors and pads, it makes sense.
Still not sure about the rear. The rear rotors and pads are fine, according to Honda dealership. Can’t decide what is a better action in this case: keep 5 mm rear pads with “all new” in the front, or a mix of older (rear) rotors with new (rear) pads.

Thanks.

[NoName]

[quote=”Einstein” post=151110]Sticking caliper. If you replaced the caliper with an reman. Check the brake hoses for kinks. Its possible that left rear hose had an obstruction.[/quote]

I did not replace the caliper and there was no issue for 2 months after the brake job.

[NoName]

[quote=”AcuraTL3.2″ post=151094]Sbi !

I have the exact same problem on my Honda !
I changed the caliper (new), silicone the pins, flush the fluid, even changed the brake hose (new) and my car still doing what you described only on one rear wheel

Bottom line I took out the metal spring from the caliper and where the pads sit, now the pads are making noise going down the road but least I know they are loose (only on the problem wheel)

It will work for 3-4 weeks and they will lock up again, and I don`t know why !

Good luck and keep us posted if you find the cause[/quote]

Are you sure it’s the pads and not the caliper?

[NoName]

[quote=”bigbird1971″ post=151050]sounds like your left rear caliper is sticking, causing friction while you drive. It could be either the piston or more likely the slide pins are stuck. When you changed the pads, did you re-grease the slide pins?[/quote]

Absolutely, but not re-grease, re-silicone 😛 . I highly doubt that the pins are stuck, I applied nice amount to all pins.

[NoName]

Thank you.

Is it possible that there was an extension tube that went forward towards the engine and it fell off?

[NoName]

Thank you both.
But it wasn’t even a humid day for the amount of water that was under the car and as I said – I remember the a/c condensation much closer to the front, underneath the engine.

[NoName]

[quote=”college man” post=146240]Two choices. Rebuild the caliper or replace the caliper.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/brake-videos/710-how-to-rebuild-a-front-brake-caliper%5B/quote%5D

OK, what happens if I leave it like this?
Re-building a caliper (Note: it’s the rear one) is out of my league, so obviously if/when I’ll just have to replace them. How do remove the rear caliper with the hand brake cable attached to it?

Thanks.

[NoName]

[quote=”wysetech” post=145796]I have been doing brake service for many years and have never opened the bleeder when pushing the piston back and have never had a problem. If you don’t open the bleeder there is no reason to bleed the system.[/quote]

I do want to, I want to change the brake fluid, but these are two separate issues I suppose. My only concern is whether or not it can cause damage to the master cylinder/brake system if you let fluid go back to the cylinder while pushing the piston.

[NoName]

[quote=”DaFirnz” post=145771]attempting to loosen the bleeder valve can be a one way trip to caliper replacement.[/quote]

So how do you flush or bleed the system if you don’t open the valve?

[NoName]

[quote=”Evil-i” post=145748]Clamping/pinching/crushing the line shut is not a great idea. I consider it an incredibly bad idea. Like you said, open the bleed valve when retracting the piston, or separate the caliper from the line altogether.

If you think about it, clamping the line shut is going to prevent you from retracting the piston anyway. The fluid has no place to go.[/quote]

I am referring to how Eric does it – clamping the line and opening the bleed. Question is – if you just open the bleed without clamping the line, where will the fluid go…I suppose it’ll travel through the easiest route – out through the bleed valve or up the hose to the cylinder 🙁

[NoName]

Thank you Eric.

That’s what I meant by “flushing”, replacing it using the method in this video.

Thanks again.

[Author]

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