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The car really doesn’t become that comfortable after long drives. It seems that from my testing, it will cool a max of about 15-20 degrees (Fahrenheit) from the ambient temperature. It really is not enough to make a difference.
When I flushed the lines, I replaced the oil with Ester oil, which is the recommended oil for the rotary compressor with r134a. The air conditioner has really never worked well- It’s acting very similar- if not the same as it was last year. As I recall, the capacity is, with r12, 2.15 lbs. I think I filled it with about 2lbs, But I really don’t know exactly because of the cans, and I started with a half can; this meant I didn’t have a great idea. I do know the static pressure is about where it should be when considering the ambient temperature.I don’t have direct access to a set of manifold gauges, so right now I’ll just have to tell you a few of my observations. First, the system produces a temperature difference in the lines. The one going from the compressor to the condenser becomes incredibly hot, and the line from the evaporator to the compressor is cool, but not cold. Secondly, I notice little vent temperature change when I turn the system on, or leave it off. Thirdly, last year, it seemed to cool by about 15-20 Fahrenheit, but after my (stupid) attempt to boost the amount of refrigerant in the system, as I thought it lost some, it doesn’t do that much. How best can I remove refrigerant from the system, as it is illegal to let it go into the air. I though about taking it to a shop, but one place told me it would be $125 to take out the refrigerant. I thought that was crazy.
I can’t remember the pressures exactly, but I seem to recall that the high side was something like 290-300, and the low side was something like 150-180 at idle. Resting was something like 90 psi. I put in approximately the amount of refrigerant per a BMW r12 to r134a service builtin. I evacuated the system before charging it. Now that I think about it, the receiver drier may have been open to outside air for a short time (day-two days), but I evacuated it for quite awhile. What could be the symptoms of an over-charged system?
When I charged the system I charged it with 32oz of r134a. The factory charge of r12 is 2.42 LBS. The official BMW conversion guide said to put in 2 LBS or 32oz. I removed the glove box and got to the lines coming out and to the evaporator. the smaller one was very warm when the system was running.
When I charged the system I charged it with 32oz of r134a. The factory charge of r12 is 2.42 LBS. The official BMW conversion guide said to put in 2 LBS or 32oz. I removed the glove box and got to the lines coming out and to the evaporator. the smaller one was very warm when the system was running.
I finished the conversion. Except for the pressures are WAY too high. I put the right amount of oil and Freon the system per BMW specs, but the pressures are 300 high and 80 low. The air is not even cool out of the vent, except when driving for a bit with the fan on low, then if it is tuned on a higher speed it momentarily blows cold. What could be wrong?
I finished the conversion. Except for the pressures are WAY too high. I put the right amount of oil and Freon the system per BMW specs, but the pressures are 300 high and 80 low. The air is not even cool out of the vent, except when driving for a bit with the fan on low, then if it is tuned on a higher speed it momentarily blows cold. What could be wrong?
Should I replace the rubber lines if they still look good?
Should I replace the rubber lines if they still look good?
58 min. drive. Possibly.
58 min. drive. Possibly.
I could hear the injectors clicking. Although, I took the rusted pulsation damper off, and looked at the fuel flow again, but this time, it was a slow drip trickle right out of the second in-line fuel pump. Does this car have two filters? One after the first pump, and one after the second(which is the one I changed.)?
I could hear the injectors clicking. Although, I took the rusted pulsation damper off, and looked at the fuel flow again, but this time, it was a slow drip trickle right out of the second in-line fuel pump. Does this car have two filters? One after the first pump, and one after the second(which is the one I changed.)?
I spilled on the fuel filter. I replaced the fuel filter, and tested the flow…it gushed. Problem still persists. Could it be the fuel injection computer? Injectors?
I spilled on the fuel filter. I replaced the fuel filter, and tested the flow…it gushed. Problem still persists. Could it be the fuel injection computer? Injectors?
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