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I had some time to double check everything, I have spark, compression, all timing marks lined up, injector pulse. This car should run. I am very sure the fuel pressure is good being as I can smell fuel when cranking the car. I do not have an adaptor to test it, being as it is a straight line into rail
Any ideas?
If you could that’d be great. I don’t have access to labscope at home. I just want to be sure I am right, this guy is a really good friend/customer of my side work and always fixes everything. Thank you.
I should also add where I read what to check it advised turning engine by hand and observing dc voltage while back probing signal wire. If it comes off 5 volts the sensor is seeing a reading and not to condemn the crank sensor. I am no import expert but have fixed quite a few. I do appreciate the advice.
I have verified no injector pulse/spark. I was looking for a way to test crank sensor and found a site that wanted me to check power and ground at the connector, I have both. They made it easy with the connector coming out of timing cover. I’m going to check and see if the signal pin shows anything other than the 5 volt reference. If it stays at 5v and doesn’t change that should indicate a bad crank sensor. If it does change I will look into the cam sensor. Is there any good way to test it.
I did not see a stand alone crank sensor. I assume it is part of the dist?
I work at a ford dealer so I bring it on myself. Usually I can fly through stuff easy being as I am a heavy line tech, but thus week sucked.
I work at a ford dealer so I bring it on myself. Usually I can fly through stuff easy being as I am a heavy line tech, but thus week sucked.
Most noises like that are made by the pump, however I would listen to it with a mechanics stethoscope when it’s making the noise. Listen around the bell housing and the pan. If you hear it better around bell housing it would indicated bad pump or converter. If you hear it in the pan something with valve body or further in is faulty.
Most noises like that are made by the pump, however I would listen to it with a mechanics stethoscope when it’s making the noise. Listen around the bell housing and the pan. If you hear it better around bell housing it would indicated bad pump or converter. If you hear it in the pan something with valve body or further in is faulty.
You have have an issue with the parking brake on that side of the car. If the parking brake is built into the caliper you may have a cable issue.
You have have an issue with the parking brake on that side of the car. If the parking brake is built into the caliper you may have a cable issue.
I’m not 100% familiar with dodges but most vacuum hvac systems will default to defrost for this reason if there is a lack of vacuum. Further, it would have to have vacuum to hold the vent door open. It’s likely an issue with the switch, if not you may have a broken blend door.
I’m not 100% familiar with dodges but most vacuum hvac systems will default to defrost for this reason if there is a lack of vacuum. Further, it would have to have vacuum to hold the vent door open. It’s likely an issue with the switch, if not you may have a broken blend door.