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Yes, I bought and imported an overhauled rear axle from Sweden. Couldn’t find any that provided that service in Norway. Also used the chance to get one with LSD.
I could also mention that I came across a service manual from Volvo. The spec there is that the backlash should be 0,13mm. I measured about 0,2mm, so clearly that was out of spec. I also inspected the gears and found signs of wear, what the service manual call “binding gears”. So the gears were slowly eating each other.
Yes, I bought and imported an overhauled rear axle from Sweden. Couldn’t find any that provided that service in Norway. Also used the chance to get one with LSD.
I could also mention that I came across a service manual from Volvo. The spec there is that the backlash should be 0,13mm. I measured about 0,2mm, so clearly that was out of spec. I also inspected the gears and found signs of wear, what the service manual call “binding gears”. So the gears were slowly eating each other.
I have now replaced the rear axle. All the clunking and bearing (singing/squealing) noises are gone now. Most of the slack I felt is also gone, so the drive train feel a lot more tighter now than it did. The handbrake doesn’t stick on the right side anymore as well. BUT the slight vibration I feel at around 60 km/h (~37 mph) is still there…
I had the car at a workshop a few days ago to have a few other things checked like alternator charging, the turbocharger etc. While they test drove my car they felt the vibration and had a quick look at that as well. They told me that something else is wrong, as it shouldn’t vibrate like that. Finally a workshop that agree with me! The dealership have tried to convince me that rear wheel drive cars are supposed to vibrate and make noises. Anyhow, they suspected the drive shaft to be the issue and thought I had incorrectly assembled it while changing the rubber coupling. Since I’ve tried several different shafts and been very careful to assemble them correctly, that can’t be the issue. They got quite puzzled as well when I listed up everything I’ve done.
This got me thinking, and I started reading my workshop manual again. I found an illustration of the drive shaft (see image below). I can’t remember the item “A” on the picture, called Centre sleeve. That sleeve might be missing, so I’m going to disconnect the shaft and check. If it is missing, then the shaft would have the possibility to flex out of balance while driving.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131112_183748_zps14329e7f.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131112_183748_zps14329e7f.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I have now replaced the rear axle. All the clunking and bearing (singing/squealing) noises are gone now. Most of the slack I felt is also gone, so the drive train feel a lot more tighter now than it did. The handbrake doesn’t stick on the right side anymore as well. BUT the slight vibration I feel at around 60 km/h (~37 mph) is still there…
I had the car at a workshop a few days ago to have a few other things checked like alternator charging, the turbocharger etc. While they test drove my car they felt the vibration and had a quick look at that as well. They told me that something else is wrong, as it shouldn’t vibrate like that. Finally a workshop that agree with me! The dealership have tried to convince me that rear wheel drive cars are supposed to vibrate and make noises. Anyhow, they suspected the drive shaft to be the issue and thought I had incorrectly assembled it while changing the rubber coupling. Since I’ve tried several different shafts and been very careful to assemble them correctly, that can’t be the issue. They got quite puzzled as well when I listed up everything I’ve done.
This got me thinking, and I started reading my workshop manual again. I found an illustration of the drive shaft (see image below). I can’t remember the item “A” on the picture, called Centre sleeve. That sleeve might be missing, so I’m going to disconnect the shaft and check. If it is missing, then the shaft would have the possibility to flex out of balance while driving.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131112_183748_zps14329e7f.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131112_183748_zps14329e7f.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
No input or suggestions on this? Would this be sufficient evidence that something is wrong to bring back to the workshop?
No input or suggestions on this? Would this be sufficient evidence that something is wrong to bring back to the workshop?
I’ve done some measurements on the differential. I’m a bit uncertain how to interpret the tooth pattern. The dial gauge gave a reading of about 0.2mm backlash (assuming I set it up correctly). If I interpret the pattern correct, the pinion gear should be moved slightly backwards?
The oil didn’t look too good either. It’s driven about 1000km (about 621 miles). The oil is metallic black/grey and I can’t see through it.
It also might look like the pinion bearing is bad? The differential housing is hot to the touch towards the back. The flange on the back have a very slight slack up and down. I can hear a weak “singing” noise while driving.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_190618_zps9cbd7587.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_190618_zps9cbd7587.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_191851_zps13bff6fa.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_191851_zps13bff6fa.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_191928_zps4de96371.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_191928_zps4de96371.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_191957_zps8f563fae.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_191957_zps8f563fae.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_192844_zpsfde039be.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_192844_zpsfde039be.jpg[/IMG][/URL][video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGmLlEUvM4c[/video]
I’ve done some measurements on the differential. I’m a bit uncertain how to interpret the tooth pattern. The dial gauge gave a reading of about 0.2mm backlash (assuming I set it up correctly). If I interpret the pattern correct, the pinion gear should be moved slightly backwards?
The oil didn’t look too good either. It’s driven about 1000km (about 621 miles). The oil is metallic black/grey and I can’t see through it.
It also might look like the pinion bearing is bad? The differential housing is hot to the touch towards the back. The flange on the back have a very slight slack up and down. I can hear a weak “singing” noise while driving.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_190618_zps9cbd7587.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_190618_zps9cbd7587.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_191851_zps13bff6fa.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_191851_zps13bff6fa.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_191909_zps294d5f78.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_191909_zps294d5f78.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_191928_zps4de96371.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_191928_zps4de96371.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_191957_zps8f563fae.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_191957_zps8f563fae.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130819_192844_zpsfde039be.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130819_192844_zpsfde039be.jpg[/IMG][/URL][video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGmLlEUvM4c[/video]
I’ve bought gear marking compound from eBay. Actually a lot cheaper than buying it here in Norway. It will take a week or so to arrive, that’s the only catch.
I just realized that the service/repair handbook I own don’t have any specs. It states that it must be brought to an authorized Volvo workshop. The problem here is that the specialist refuse to do the work… If anyone have the specifications for the backlash etc, please provide them.
My goal with this is to bring back hard evidence that there is a problem with the differential. The workshop that did the overhaul last year should replace it if needed.
This car have been a restoration project where I’ve tried to use all original parts if possible. A lot is brand new parts as well. If I were to upgrade, I’d use a original “anti-spin” rear axle. The type that have LSD. I would think that would be a great advantage in the winter, although not a big requirement.
I’ve bought gear marking compound from eBay. Actually a lot cheaper than buying it here in Norway. It will take a week or so to arrive, that’s the only catch.
I just realized that the service/repair handbook I own don’t have any specs. It states that it must be brought to an authorized Volvo workshop. The problem here is that the specialist refuse to do the work… If anyone have the specifications for the backlash etc, please provide them.
My goal with this is to bring back hard evidence that there is a problem with the differential. The workshop that did the overhaul last year should replace it if needed.
This car have been a restoration project where I’ve tried to use all original parts if possible. A lot is brand new parts as well. If I were to upgrade, I’d use a original “anti-spin” rear axle. The type that have LSD. I would think that would be a great advantage in the winter, although not a big requirement.
All the bushings are replaced. I even went as far as using polyurethane bushings. Another common problem is that the torque rods tend to get oval holes where the bushings are. That isn’t the case either. The issue is simply too much slack inside the differential housing.
I’ve bought my self a dial gauge to measure with. Now I’m just missing the special paint. No car part dealers around my area sell that. Guess I’ll have to look at eBay.
All the bushings are replaced. I even went as far as using polyurethane bushings. Another common problem is that the torque rods tend to get oval holes where the bushings are. That isn’t the case either. The issue is simply too much slack inside the differential housing.
I’ve bought my self a dial gauge to measure with. Now I’m just missing the special paint. No car part dealers around my area sell that. Guess I’ll have to look at eBay.
EDIT: No, the Volvo is not lowered. Brand new stock suspension.
Yes, indeed. I’ll drive it for a while, but it is annoying with the vibration and clunking. I kind of hope something will go wrong so I can tell them “I told you so”.
I had a look under the car a while ago, and they haven’t even had the cover off. I know that because the rust protection coating is undisturbed. They’ve only opened the fill plug. Obviously they haven’t done what I asked them to do, and they don’t want to do it. They actually told me “the car is old, it is normal”. I have another car driven more than the differential in this car, and it do not suffer the same issues. I’ve tried other Volvo 740s driven three times the length and don’t have any form for vibration, clunking or heat in the differential.
Looks like this is a battle I can’t win… Maybe I can if I get some hard evidence. I don’t know how expensive paint and a dial gauge is. The tooth bite pattern and backlash I suspect are wrong.
EDIT: No, the Volvo is not lowered. Brand new stock suspension.
Yes, indeed. I’ll drive it for a while, but it is annoying with the vibration and clunking. I kind of hope something will go wrong so I can tell them “I told you so”.
I had a look under the car a while ago, and they haven’t even had the cover off. I know that because the rust protection coating is undisturbed. They’ve only opened the fill plug. Obviously they haven’t done what I asked them to do, and they don’t want to do it. They actually told me “the car is old, it is normal”. I have another car driven more than the differential in this car, and it do not suffer the same issues. I’ve tried other Volvo 740s driven three times the length and don’t have any form for vibration, clunking or heat in the differential.
Looks like this is a battle I can’t win… Maybe I can if I get some hard evidence. I don’t know how expensive paint and a dial gauge is. The tooth bite pattern and backlash I suspect are wrong.
I just got a phone call from the workshop. A mechanic have looked at it now and insist that there is nothing wrong with the differential. He claims that the oil is black because of some additives. I asked if they have measured the backlash and other clearances with a micrometer gauge, but I were told that wasn’t necessary. The mechanical parts isn’t that precise.
I’m a bit unsure now. Everything points to the rear axle, the differential. I hear clunking noises, bearing noises, feel slight vibrations and I almost burn my hand when touching the differential housing after a short drive. Something is clearly wrong, but the mechanic insist it is absolutely fine. Looks like I’ll have to start searching for a used rear axle…