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I’ve had a breakthrough now! The workshop that did the mandatory technical inspection on my car also had a look at the vibration issue, as mentioned. They told me that if they were to troubleshoot it, they would have to try it spline for spline until the vibration is gone. Yesterday I pulled it off and rotated it 180 degrees and put it back together. Guess what… The vibration is now gone!
At least the speed related vibration… Now I noticed another parallel problem. The extra vibration and noise during load is still there. I did some testing and noticed that it only occurs between 1500-2000 RPM. Doesn’t matter which gear I’m in.
I’ve read on dedicated Volvo forums that tuning the engine I have (B230ET) isn’t a very good thing. Increased boost pressure will cause catastrophic failure for the engine, or deformed (bent) rods for the pistons. Since I have low compression in one cylinder, and the car have evidence of being tuned, I find this theory very possible.
As a side note. The turbocharger is supposed to output 0,53 bar g. If turned up, already at 0,8 bar g the engine is in the danger zone of damage. The rods are weak (9mm thick), and the next generation engines (B230FT or B230FK) got thicker rods (13mm thick).
Yes, I’ve heard about that DIY trick. The dealership told me to do it. Have the car running and put a screwdriver to the drive shaft to find out the point where it would jump. Then put on a clamp at that spot and move it around. Personally I don’t feel comfortable being under the car when it is running. Especially when it needs to be at higher speeds. I’d rather leave the balancing to a professional with proper equipment.
Yes, I’ve heard about that DIY trick. The dealership told me to do it. Have the car running and put a screwdriver to the drive shaft to find out the point where it would jump. Then put on a clamp at that spot and move it around. Personally I don’t feel comfortable being under the car when it is running. Especially when it needs to be at higher speeds. I’d rather leave the balancing to a professional with proper equipment.
Perhaps, but I’ve bought one earlier, and might get a bad one again. People can’t be trusted when it comes to used parts. I also think that the dealership were lying about the price to have the shaft balanced. The other workshop I spoke with said it should cost around 2000 NOK, which is roughly $300. Might as well get it balanced, as buying used parts over and over quickly cost about the same. A used one cost about $100.
Perhaps, but I’ve bought one earlier, and might get a bad one again. People can’t be trusted when it comes to used parts. I also think that the dealership were lying about the price to have the shaft balanced. The other workshop I spoke with said it should cost around 2000 NOK, which is roughly $300. Might as well get it balanced, as buying used parts over and over quickly cost about the same. A used one cost about $100.
Had the car in to get the front brakes fixed and have it technically inspected as is mandatory by the European Union every second year. Passed without marks, so good to go for another two years now. While I had it in I asked the mechanic to look at the vibration issue. He did not do any troubleshooting, just looked quick at it. He suspects that the drive shaft is installed incorrectly. The alignment marks he claimed look more like marks left by tools, just a coincidence that one of the marks look like an arrow. I’m going to hand in the car again at a later date when they have time to get everything checked more thoroughly. Having the drive shaft rebalanced would cost about $1000, so hope they find another fault that is cheaper to fix.
Had the car in to get the front brakes fixed and have it technically inspected as is mandatory by the European Union every second year. Passed without marks, so good to go for another two years now. While I had it in I asked the mechanic to look at the vibration issue. He did not do any troubleshooting, just looked quick at it. He suspects that the drive shaft is installed incorrectly. The alignment marks he claimed look more like marks left by tools, just a coincidence that one of the marks look like an arrow. I’m going to hand in the car again at a later date when they have time to get everything checked more thoroughly. Having the drive shaft rebalanced would cost about $1000, so hope they find another fault that is cheaper to fix.
Not directly. When I had it at the dealership they bought in a new drive shaft as it were cheaper than having my old one rebalanced. They claim that they tried the car with the new one and that the result was the same. So they put on the old one again and sent the new one back. I don’t trust what they say as they also said they checked the differential in the old axle and found it good. I could see that the cover wasn’t even taken off as the rust protective coating wasn’t disturbed.
I have also tried two other used drive shafts as well without luck. The first one was on the car when I bought it and had a loose metal piece inside, causing vibration depending on the position of the piece inside the tube. The second one turned out to be two different drive shafts (they can be separated in the middle) and put together as one piece. The third is the one I use now and is the one the dealership took off and claim they tested the car with a new one before putting it back on again. I can also mention that the dealership didn’t put it back correctly either, the balance marking were off and I had to pull it off and put it back together correctly.
I’m going to bring my car to another shop on Monday that specializes in tuning cars, they should have better knowledge about this than the dealership.
Not directly. When I had it at the dealership they bought in a new drive shaft as it were cheaper than having my old one rebalanced. They claim that they tried the car with the new one and that the result was the same. So they put on the old one again and sent the new one back. I don’t trust what they say as they also said they checked the differential in the old axle and found it good. I could see that the cover wasn’t even taken off as the rust protective coating wasn’t disturbed.
I have also tried two other used drive shafts as well without luck. The first one was on the car when I bought it and had a loose metal piece inside, causing vibration depending on the position of the piece inside the tube. The second one turned out to be two different drive shafts (they can be separated in the middle) and put together as one piece. The third is the one I use now and is the one the dealership took off and claim they tested the car with a new one before putting it back on again. I can also mention that the dealership didn’t put it back correctly either, the balance marking were off and I had to pull it off and put it back together correctly.
I’m going to bring my car to another shop on Monday that specializes in tuning cars, they should have better knowledge about this than the dealership.
On Friday I used a few hours with the help from a friend to replace the u-joints and the rubber sleeve for the stabilizing pin from the gearbox into the drive shaft. I’ll throw in a few pictures of the new parts below. Before changing the parts I could feel a very small amount of play in the rear u-joint. After changing everything the result is still the same. How disappointing! It still vibrates at the given speeds, and still have a loud noise along with the speeds. The noise only occur if I put load to the drive train, when I accelerate of let go of the pedal. People who sit in the back seat can’t hear what I say in the front seat. Yesterday I were told it sounded like a propeller plane taking off. Others have said thins earlier like “don’t need a subwoofer in this car” etc. I’m quite puzzled about this issue… Now I’ve replaced every possible part that could cause this and a little more than that. Guess it is time to take the car to another mechanic shop and have it looked over again. If I can find someone that know how to repair old rear wheel driven cars without possibilities to connecting it to a computer.
New sleeve and the old one tapped out by welding a small plate to it.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131213_205122_zpsefcf200c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131213_205122_zpsefcf200c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131213_205310_zpsfdc3595d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131213_205310_zpsfdc3595d.jpg[/IMG][/URL]And the new u-joints in the middle and rear end.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131213_224503_zps8bb96498.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131213_224503_zps8bb96498.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131213_224515_zps687c012c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131213_224515_zps687c012c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]On Friday I used a few hours with the help from a friend to replace the u-joints and the rubber sleeve for the stabilizing pin from the gearbox into the drive shaft. I’ll throw in a few pictures of the new parts below. Before changing the parts I could feel a very small amount of play in the rear u-joint. After changing everything the result is still the same. How disappointing! It still vibrates at the given speeds, and still have a loud noise along with the speeds. The noise only occur if I put load to the drive train, when I accelerate of let go of the pedal. People who sit in the back seat can’t hear what I say in the front seat. Yesterday I were told it sounded like a propeller plane taking off. Others have said thins earlier like “don’t need a subwoofer in this car” etc. I’m quite puzzled about this issue… Now I’ve replaced every possible part that could cause this and a little more than that. Guess it is time to take the car to another mechanic shop and have it looked over again. If I can find someone that know how to repair old rear wheel driven cars without possibilities to connecting it to a computer.
New sleeve and the old one tapped out by welding a small plate to it.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131213_205122_zpsefcf200c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131213_205122_zpsefcf200c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131213_205310_zpsfdc3595d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131213_205310_zpsfdc3595d.jpg[/IMG][/URL]And the new u-joints in the middle and rear end.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131213_224503_zps8bb96498.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131213_224503_zps8bb96498.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131213_224515_zps687c012c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131213_224515_zps687c012c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]I’ve used better parts where I can. As an example, all the bushings are polyurethane and the motor mounts are a reinforced type. Unfortunately I’ve not found anything for the drive shaft. I think the biggest problem here is the age. That rubber is around 30-ish year old now, so it is to be expected it dissolves to pieces. The u-joints are probably quite old as well. Hopefully the new parts I’ve ordered solves the issue. The sleeve is a so called “classic part”, so it will take a couple of weeks to get it from Sweden.
I’ve used better parts where I can. As an example, all the bushings are polyurethane and the motor mounts are a reinforced type. Unfortunately I’ve not found anything for the drive shaft. I think the biggest problem here is the age. That rubber is around 30-ish year old now, so it is to be expected it dissolves to pieces. The u-joints are probably quite old as well. Hopefully the new parts I’ve ordered solves the issue. The sleeve is a so called “classic part”, so it will take a couple of weeks to get it from Sweden.
I’ve not contacted the workshop that did the “rebuild” of my rear axle. I would guess they’re not that eager to pay for the new axle I bought. They did after all try to convince me that all the noises and vibration is normal in a RWD car. My conclusion is that they don’t want to repair my car, they just don’t care. So much for the “excellent service” provided by dealerships.
I know angles can be a factor to vibration. However, I’ve not lowered or raised my car. It should be stock height as it have new springs. The joints on the drive shaft are probably old. I can feel some very slight slack on the one closest to the rear axle. I’m not sure what the tolerance is, but would guess they need at least a tiny amount to move completely free.
I disconnected the drive shaft yesterday. The sleeve was there, but was much play between it and the pin. It was damaged and missed some pieces as well. The rubber is probably very old and become hard and brittle. That, and the play would most likely create some vibration at given speeds and when load is put on the drive train. I bought a new sleeve, and new joints as well just to be sure.
I did a small garage fix and taped the pin to make it slightly thicker. I think most of the tape got pushed back when I assembled it again, but seemed to help slightly. I can still feel some vibration at the speeds and when I accelerate, but it doesn’t shake as much when I release the clutch after changing to a lower gear.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131115_121659_zps3e83d14b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131115_121659_zps3e83d14b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I’ve not contacted the workshop that did the “rebuild” of my rear axle. I would guess they’re not that eager to pay for the new axle I bought. They did after all try to convince me that all the noises and vibration is normal in a RWD car. My conclusion is that they don’t want to repair my car, they just don’t care. So much for the “excellent service” provided by dealerships.
I know angles can be a factor to vibration. However, I’ve not lowered or raised my car. It should be stock height as it have new springs. The joints on the drive shaft are probably old. I can feel some very slight slack on the one closest to the rear axle. I’m not sure what the tolerance is, but would guess they need at least a tiny amount to move completely free.
I disconnected the drive shaft yesterday. The sleeve was there, but was much play between it and the pin. It was damaged and missed some pieces as well. The rubber is probably very old and become hard and brittle. That, and the play would most likely create some vibration at given speeds and when load is put on the drive train. I bought a new sleeve, and new joints as well just to be sure.
I did a small garage fix and taped the pin to make it slightly thicker. I think most of the tape got pushed back when I assembled it again, but seemed to help slightly. I can still feel some vibration at the speeds and when I accelerate, but it doesn’t shake as much when I release the clutch after changing to a lower gear.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20131115_121659_zps3e83d14b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20131115_121659_zps3e83d14b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]