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The workshop disconnected the hoses and flushed the core clean. They told me it does not have any clogging inside, has good flow.
I checked my user manual and the system have been bled properly. Shouldn’t be any trapped air now.
Noticed something else, though. The aftermarket valve for the heater still restricts flow when fully open. Nothing is maladjusted, it is the design it self of the valve that is the problem. The original part (which is discontinued and cannot be bought anymore) is fully open and does not restrict. The aftermarket valve have a strange shape on the restricting plate inside the valve.
I would guess this design restrict the flow, thus causing lower temperatures. This is after all the valve that regulate the amount of heat.
I made a poor illustration of how the aftermarket valve looks like when fully open. The original part does not have this design, it is fully open when opened all the way.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/ventil_zpsae7a67a7.png.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/ventil_zpsae7a67a7.png[/IMG][/URL]
The workshop disconnected the hoses and flushed the core clean. They told me it does not have any clogging inside, has good flow.
I checked my user manual and the system have been bled properly. Shouldn’t be any trapped air now.
Noticed something else, though. The aftermarket valve for the heater still restricts flow when fully open. Nothing is maladjusted, it is the design it self of the valve that is the problem. The original part (which is discontinued and cannot be bought anymore) is fully open and does not restrict. The aftermarket valve have a strange shape on the restricting plate inside the valve.
I would guess this design restrict the flow, thus causing lower temperatures. This is after all the valve that regulate the amount of heat.
I made a poor illustration of how the aftermarket valve looks like when fully open. The original part does not have this design, it is fully open when opened all the way.
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/ventil_zpsae7a67a7.png.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/ventil_zpsae7a67a7.png[/IMG][/URL]
As mentioned, the heater have been flushed and water flowed through it without restriction. I did replace the thermostat today. Bought a new one again, this time one that opens at 91 degrees Celsius. The old one opened at 82 degrees Celsius. I noticed a slight improvement on the temperature, but still not good enough. The temperature still vary with the RPM. Low temperature at idle, good hot temperature at 4-5000 RPM.
I’ll look up if there are any instructions on how to purge the system to get rid of trapped air. I had the car at a workshop just a week ago, so I would assume they’ve done it correctly. But again, I don’t really trust any workshop.
I’ll update again when I have removed any air that might be trapped.
As mentioned, the heater have been flushed and water flowed through it without restriction. I did replace the thermostat today. Bought a new one again, this time one that opens at 91 degrees Celsius. The old one opened at 82 degrees Celsius. I noticed a slight improvement on the temperature, but still not good enough. The temperature still vary with the RPM. Low temperature at idle, good hot temperature at 4-5000 RPM.
I’ll look up if there are any instructions on how to purge the system to get rid of trapped air. I had the car at a workshop just a week ago, so I would assume they’ve done it correctly. But again, I don’t really trust any workshop.
I’ll update again when I have removed any air that might be trapped.
I’ve been reading some more on this issue and have concluded with that I have what is called “clutch chatter”. When engaging the clutch, the car will shake a lot. Especially around 1500 rpm. This can also occur when changing to higher gears as well, not just when starting off in 1st. When driving I can feel slight vibration between 1500-2000rpm, which also causes noise in the back. A low frequency rumbling sound, like a propeller plane. The vibration is felt throughout the car, but mostly noticeable in the floor and steering wheel. Not felt as much in the seat as it did before when I had speed related vibration caused by the drive shaft.
Since the flywheel is very toasty, I guess it is the problem. In the pictures small surface cracking can be seen as well. It have visible symptoms that would cause these issues I’m experiencing.
Ordered a new flywheel from Volvo, as well as new bolts and center bearing for the gearbox axle. Going to get it changed with the engine overhaul. Been driving with this for two years now, so guess it will hold a few more months.
I’ve been reading some more on this issue and have concluded with that I have what is called “clutch chatter”. When engaging the clutch, the car will shake a lot. Especially around 1500 rpm. This can also occur when changing to higher gears as well, not just when starting off in 1st. When driving I can feel slight vibration between 1500-2000rpm, which also causes noise in the back. A low frequency rumbling sound, like a propeller plane. The vibration is felt throughout the car, but mostly noticeable in the floor and steering wheel. Not felt as much in the seat as it did before when I had speed related vibration caused by the drive shaft.
Since the flywheel is very toasty, I guess it is the problem. In the pictures small surface cracking can be seen as well. It have visible symptoms that would cause these issues I’m experiencing.
Ordered a new flywheel from Volvo, as well as new bolts and center bearing for the gearbox axle. Going to get it changed with the engine overhaul. Been driving with this for two years now, so guess it will hold a few more months.
The clutch disc, pressure plate and thrust bearing is brand new. Changed everything when I changed the gearbox the last time. I took off the flywheel to change the seal behind it. Used new bolts and specified thread locker when I bolted it on again. Also used a calibrated torque wrench applied to the correct setting, and torqued it in a star pattern.
I changed the clutch disc and thrust bearing two years ago when I bought the car. The reason I changed everything this soon was because I got a grinding/whining noise when engaging the clutch. Changing everything (again) solved that issue.
I can mention that the clutch disc that was on the car when I bought it were usable, but was heavily worn. The springs in the disc were cracked to pieces and rattled.
The clutch disc, pressure plate and thrust bearing is brand new. Changed everything when I changed the gearbox the last time. I took off the flywheel to change the seal behind it. Used new bolts and specified thread locker when I bolted it on again. Also used a calibrated torque wrench applied to the correct setting, and torqued it in a star pattern.
I changed the clutch disc and thrust bearing two years ago when I bought the car. The reason I changed everything this soon was because I got a grinding/whining noise when engaging the clutch. Changing everything (again) solved that issue.
I can mention that the clutch disc that was on the car when I bought it were usable, but was heavily worn. The springs in the disc were cracked to pieces and rattled.
I spoke with a mechanic regarding the flywheel in my car. I showed him a picture of how it looks like. His response was that he had never seen anything like it. Judging by how it looks, he thinks the source of the vibration is the flywheel. He said it have at some point had a lot of heat that have hardened the metal unevenly, making the surface brittle and uneven. That it is now slightly bent, not a 100% flat anymore. Does this sound like a possible cause?
I’m not a mechanic. I know that it does occur friction when engaging and disengaging the clutch, so I thought it was normal wear. The mechanic said that it should not occur THAT much friction during normal use. This flywheel he said show sign of very serious abuse and should be machined and rebalanced, or changed completely. Guess the flywheel needs attention at the engine overhaul.
Here is a picture of the flywheel:
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130726_211239_zps7db3ae3a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130726_211239_zps7db3ae3a.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I spoke with a mechanic regarding the flywheel in my car. I showed him a picture of how it looks like. His response was that he had never seen anything like it. Judging by how it looks, he thinks the source of the vibration is the flywheel. He said it have at some point had a lot of heat that have hardened the metal unevenly, making the surface brittle and uneven. That it is now slightly bent, not a 100% flat anymore. Does this sound like a possible cause?
I’m not a mechanic. I know that it does occur friction when engaging and disengaging the clutch, so I thought it was normal wear. The mechanic said that it should not occur THAT much friction during normal use. This flywheel he said show sign of very serious abuse and should be machined and rebalanced, or changed completely. Guess the flywheel needs attention at the engine overhaul.
Here is a picture of the flywheel:
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20130726_211239_zps7db3ae3a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20130726_211239_zps7db3ae3a.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Haven’t changed the ECU yet, as I probably need to go to a workshop to get the turbo pressure adjusted correctly.
Anyhow, I’m out of ideas when it comes to the slight vibration and noise that occur at 1500-2000 rpm. The workshop that looked at it said everything is fine in the drive train, so it has to be the engine. Most likely the cylinder with bad compression causes imbalance that is transferred throughout the car. The vibration and noise goes away if I put the car in neutral or push in the clutch pedal.
I can also head a very faint metallic knocking sound from the engine. The mechanic that looked at the car say it might be one or more bad bearings inside the engine. Not a big issue at the moment, but will get worse. So I’m going to send the car away to get the engine overhauled after the winter.
Haven’t changed the ECU yet, as I probably need to go to a workshop to get the turbo pressure adjusted correctly.
Anyhow, I’m out of ideas when it comes to the slight vibration and noise that occur at 1500-2000 rpm. The workshop that looked at it said everything is fine in the drive train, so it has to be the engine. Most likely the cylinder with bad compression causes imbalance that is transferred throughout the car. The vibration and noise goes away if I put the car in neutral or push in the clutch pedal.
I can also head a very faint metallic knocking sound from the engine. The mechanic that looked at the car say it might be one or more bad bearings inside the engine. Not a big issue at the moment, but will get worse. So I’m going to send the car away to get the engine overhauled after the winter.
I actually want it to be stock, but using an untouched ECU will cause the engine to cut out when the boost is at its highest. Apparently the 0,2 bar extra boost is enough to cause issues with the original chip. It simply doesn’t deliver enough fuel I suspect, since it is “out of range”. So I’m not going to add more boost, I’m actually going to lower it so I can use a stock ECU.
I actually want it to be stock, but using an untouched ECU will cause the engine to cut out when the boost is at its highest. Apparently the 0,2 bar extra boost is enough to cause issues with the original chip. It simply doesn’t deliver enough fuel I suspect, since it is “out of range”. So I’m not going to add more boost, I’m actually going to lower it so I can use a stock ECU.
I’ve had a breakthrough now! The workshop that did the mandatory technical inspection on my car also had a look at the vibration issue, as mentioned. They told me that if they were to troubleshoot it, they would have to try it spline for spline until the vibration is gone. Yesterday I pulled it off and rotated it 180 degrees and put it back together. Guess what… The vibration is now gone!
At least the speed related vibration… Now I noticed another parallel problem. The extra vibration and noise during load is still there. I did some testing and noticed that it only occurs between 1500-2000 RPM. Doesn’t matter which gear I’m in.
I’ve read on dedicated Volvo forums that tuning the engine I have (B230ET) isn’t a very good thing. Increased boost pressure will cause catastrophic failure for the engine, or deformed (bent) rods for the pistons. Since I have low compression in one cylinder, and the car have evidence of being tuned, I find this theory very possible.
As a side note. The turbocharger is supposed to output 0,53 bar g. If turned up, already at 0,8 bar g the engine is in the danger zone of damage. The rods are weak (9mm thick), and the next generation engines (B230FT or B230FK) got thicker rods (13mm thick).