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Quick update: The engine is now sent to the workshop. The estimate is a couple of weeks. Hopefully the rebuilt engine and brand new flywheel solves the RPM related noises and vibrations.
Included a picture of the current state of the car:
[URL=http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/frankbilder/media/20141015_154628_zps3700c1b2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/frankbilder/20141015_154628_zps3700c1b2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Finally some progress! Contacted a couple of workshops that specialize in engines. The first workshop just said no right away. They didn’t want to touch the engine at all. The second workshop were positive. The guy on the phone actually said “Is it the ET engine? How nice that someone actually want to restore and keep it running!” He knew all about the engine, so I’m sure this is a good place to go. It will be a full overhaul. Of course, labor in Norway isn’t cheap, so it will be very expensive. More than the marked value of the car. I’ve become quite attatched to the car after hours of both swearing and good times. I’m never going to sell this car voluntarily. I expected this, so I have beforehand saved up the required money.
Hopefully this will bring an end to this long journey trying to figure out the cause of the vibrations. Have been both fun and agonizing.
The work is scheduled to begin next week. Hopefully by the end of the month I can give you guys a positive update!
Finally some progress! Contacted a couple of workshops that specialize in engines. The first workshop just said no right away. They didn’t want to touch the engine at all. The second workshop were positive. The guy on the phone actually said “Is it the ET engine? How nice that someone actually want to restore and keep it running!” He knew all about the engine, so I’m sure this is a good place to go. It will be a full overhaul. Of course, labor in Norway isn’t cheap, so it will be very expensive. More than the marked value of the car. I’ve become quite attatched to the car after hours of both swearing and good times. I’m never going to sell this car voluntarily. I expected this, so I have beforehand saved up the required money.
Hopefully this will bring an end to this long journey trying to figure out the cause of the vibrations. Have been both fun and agonizing.
The work is scheduled to begin next week. Hopefully by the end of the month I can give you guys a positive update!
I’ve been a week offshore and have not been able to look into the issue before today. When I started the car after it have been sitting for a week, I noticed the engine temperature indicator were jumping up and down. This happened after it got warm. This led me to suspect that there was air pockets in the system. I opened the bonnet and were slightly puzzled, as the expansion tank still had correct level of coolant. The cooling system have also been pressure tested and bled 6 months ago and there were no leaks. I opened the cap carefully and raised the RPM, then all the cooland disappeared. I topped off maybe 1 liter (about 1 quart) of coolant, which is a lot. Everything is fine again now. Got the heat back and engine temperature is stable. Quite strange, how did that much air get into the system? As mentioned, no leaks.
I’ve been a week offshore and have not been able to look into the issue before today. When I started the car after it have been sitting for a week, I noticed the engine temperature indicator were jumping up and down. This happened after it got warm. This led me to suspect that there was air pockets in the system. I opened the bonnet and were slightly puzzled, as the expansion tank still had correct level of coolant. The cooling system have also been pressure tested and bled 6 months ago and there were no leaks. I opened the cap carefully and raised the RPM, then all the cooland disappeared. I topped off maybe 1 liter (about 1 quart) of coolant, which is a lot. Everything is fine again now. Got the heat back and engine temperature is stable. Quite strange, how did that much air get into the system? As mentioned, no leaks.
I’m having issues again now. Haven’t had the need to turn on the heat for almost 6 months now. On my way home this evening I turned the heat on again. After driving for 20 minutes it was still blowing cold air. I then drove for a short while with the RPM at 5000, and some heat started to come out. When I dropped the RPM down to around 2000, the heat went away and it blew cold again. Really strange… Is it possible that the engine it self has partial blocking? Blocked in a way that it doesn’t overheat, but also doesn’t provide hot coolant to the heater? The workshop said they flushed through the heater several times. There was no restriction in the water flow. For me it sounds like the engine it self is the problem.
Not sure if it is related, but when I’m driving to work in the morning, the engine temperature rises quickly. That is, the gauge in the dashboard rises quick. It goes from the bottom of the scale to instantly at optimal temperature after just 1 km or so, which is around half a mile. Never goes beyond that, just stay there at optimal. The coolant never boils over either, so it does not overheat.
The thermostat is brand new, changed out twice within the last year. The heat control valve is also new, almost 6 months old. Doesn’t leak. The water pump is 1,5 years old or so.
I’m having issues again now. Haven’t had the need to turn on the heat for almost 6 months now. On my way home this evening I turned the heat on again. After driving for 20 minutes it was still blowing cold air. I then drove for a short while with the RPM at 5000, and some heat started to come out. When I dropped the RPM down to around 2000, the heat went away and it blew cold again. Really strange… Is it possible that the engine it self has partial blocking? Blocked in a way that it doesn’t overheat, but also doesn’t provide hot coolant to the heater? The workshop said they flushed through the heater several times. There was no restriction in the water flow. For me it sounds like the engine it self is the problem.
Not sure if it is related, but when I’m driving to work in the morning, the engine temperature rises quickly. That is, the gauge in the dashboard rises quick. It goes from the bottom of the scale to instantly at optimal temperature after just 1 km or so, which is around half a mile. Never goes beyond that, just stay there at optimal. The coolant never boils over either, so it does not overheat.
The thermostat is brand new, changed out twice within the last year. The heat control valve is also new, almost 6 months old. Doesn’t leak. The water pump is 1,5 years old or so.
Talked with the workshop earlier this week. The engine workshop have closed down for the summer, and the workshop that will be pulling out the engine of course want to wait until they’re open again. They will also be moving into a new building within a few days time. They estimate that the work on my car can begin sometime next month.
Talked with the workshop earlier this week. The engine workshop have closed down for the summer, and the workshop that will be pulling out the engine of course want to wait until they’re open again. They will also be moving into a new building within a few days time. They estimate that the work on my car can begin sometime next month.
Just another update. Still nothing have happened. Guess I’ll have to nag the engine workshop a bit. Vague answers and have been a while since I’ve heard from them. Hopefully it gets done this summer.
Just another update. Still nothing have happened. Guess I’ll have to nag the engine workshop a bit. Vague answers and have been a while since I’ve heard from them. Hopefully it gets done this summer.
Nothing new has happened, yet. Thought I’d give a small update anyway on the current progress.
I’ve been in contact with a workshop to get an overhaul on the engine. I’m currently waiting to get a price estimate on the job, should get it tomorrow. They wanted to check out if it is possible to get a replacement engine for the car. I also want to get a full tune-up on the injection system, as it is currently running a rich fuel mixture. The turbo also output too much boost. The ECU also have a tuning chip installed, which I don’t want since it is illegal.
Hopefully the engine will be replaced/overhauled shortly after Easter. 🙂
Nothing new has happened, yet. Thought I’d give a small update anyway on the current progress.
I’ve been in contact with a workshop to get an overhaul on the engine. I’m currently waiting to get a price estimate on the job, should get it tomorrow. They wanted to check out if it is possible to get a replacement engine for the car. I also want to get a full tune-up on the injection system, as it is currently running a rich fuel mixture. The turbo also output too much boost. The ECU also have a tuning chip installed, which I don’t want since it is illegal.
Hopefully the engine will be replaced/overhauled shortly after Easter. 🙂
I’ve now had the valve replaced with another aftermarket part. Couldn’t find an original part that didn’t leak. This new aftermarket part is made by another company, and doesn’t have that “figure eight” shape on the gate inside that restricts the flow.
The heat output is now as it should be, within 20 minutes I’m sweating inside the car. :cheer:
The other positive thing is that it doesn’t leak, as the previous valve did. Drying and washing out the leaked coolant wasn’t fun at all. Especially since I dried out the car a year ago after stopping a water leak.I’ve now had the valve replaced with another aftermarket part. Couldn’t find an original part that didn’t leak. This new aftermarket part is made by another company, and doesn’t have that “figure eight” shape on the gate inside that restricts the flow.
The heat output is now as it should be, within 20 minutes I’m sweating inside the car. :cheer:
The other positive thing is that it doesn’t leak, as the previous valve did. Drying and washing out the leaked coolant wasn’t fun at all. Especially since I dried out the car a year ago after stopping a water leak.