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I will have to look into that stuff. im going to have to wait until the weekend to look into it. i know he just put a new filter in so maybe that’s whats causing the issue. I’ll try cleaning the throttle body while im at it and see what happens. Im thinking about doing a TPS sweep when i clean the throttle body an see if there’s any dead spots. thanks for the reply.
I will have to look into that stuff. im going to have to wait until the weekend to look into it. i know he just put a new filter in so maybe that’s whats causing the issue. I’ll try cleaning the throttle body while im at it and see what happens. Im thinking about doing a TPS sweep when i clean the throttle body an see if there’s any dead spots. thanks for the reply.
i pulled 2 codes off of it (both pending codes, none stored or permanent)
P061B- Internal Control Module Torque calculation performance
P2106- Throttle actuator control system-forced limited powerIm thinking the second code is just saying the car was put in limp mode but im not 100% on that.
I recorded 30 min of live data and graphs. I couldn’t get the car to act like it did before but i saw a few things on the graphs that i have wonders about.
I graphed 9 PIDs and had all available PIDs recorded as live data feed. ill post attachments of some of the spots that had me concerned. If theres any specific PIDs that you guys would want to see, ill take more screen shots and post them.
The 3 PIDs i graphed in these shots are commanded throttle actuator control(the top red graph), Absolute throttle position 1(the bottom red graph), and Absolute throttle position 2(the green graph).
i noticed that throttle position 1 and throttle position 2 values never match up. Not sure if its supposed to be that way or not but i would think they would be close together.
The first one is under hard acceleration. The TPS tops out then drops for a split second and pops back up. The tranny shifted around this point and im not sure if that would cause the dropped reading or not. I have the white line positioned at the drop point.
The second one is the same thing but at a different time. I dont remember if the tranny shifted during this point or not.
the third one is getting on it then letting off for just a second. The first peaks dont match up (throttle position 1 doesnt peak with the other PIDs) but the second ones do.
like i said, i can post more screen shots if theres any specific PIDs that you guys would want to see.
i pulled 2 codes off of it (both pending codes, none stored or permanent)
P061B- Internal Control Module Torque calculation performance
P2106- Throttle actuator control system-forced limited powerIm thinking the second code is just saying the car was put in limp mode but im not 100% on that.
I recorded 30 min of live data and graphs. I couldn’t get the car to act like it did before but i saw a few things on the graphs that i have wonders about.
I graphed 9 PIDs and had all available PIDs recorded as live data feed. ill post attachments of some of the spots that had me concerned. If theres any specific PIDs that you guys would want to see, ill take more screen shots and post them.
The 3 PIDs i graphed in these shots are commanded throttle actuator control(the top red graph), Absolute throttle position 1(the bottom red graph), and Absolute throttle position 2(the green graph).
i noticed that throttle position 1 and throttle position 2 values never match up. Not sure if its supposed to be that way or not but i would think they would be close together.
The first one is under hard acceleration. The TPS tops out then drops for a split second and pops back up. The tranny shifted around this point and im not sure if that would cause the dropped reading or not. I have the white line positioned at the drop point.
The second one is the same thing but at a different time. I dont remember if the tranny shifted during this point or not.
the third one is getting on it then letting off for just a second. The first peaks dont match up (throttle position 1 doesnt peak with the other PIDs) but the second ones do.
like i said, i can post more screen shots if theres any specific PIDs that you guys would want to see.
i have the 36″ husky combo for my home tool box and i like it. I think i payed $300 for it brand new. I have a Snap on KRL1033 74″ for my shop box which is awesome but unnecessary for a DIY box. the price for the big name boxes aren’t justified when they’re going to be used just as a home box (i bought my snap on for $8000). The only thing i had problems with on the husky was the lock. It sometimes didn’t want to catch all the drawers. The boxes aren’t very deep either but for a home box that really didn’t matter to me. Other than that i like it. I personally think they’re better than craftsman boxes. the edges on the husky boxes are rolled unlike craftsman which is just straight sheet metal so the husky boxes seem to be a bit stronger. The roller bearings are smooth and the finish is good. for a home/DIY box i would recommend it.
i have the 36″ husky combo for my home tool box and i like it. I think i payed $300 for it brand new. I have a Snap on KRL1033 74″ for my shop box which is awesome but unnecessary for a DIY box. the price for the big name boxes aren’t justified when they’re going to be used just as a home box (i bought my snap on for $8000). The only thing i had problems with on the husky was the lock. It sometimes didn’t want to catch all the drawers. The boxes aren’t very deep either but for a home box that really didn’t matter to me. Other than that i like it. I personally think they’re better than craftsman boxes. the edges on the husky boxes are rolled unlike craftsman which is just straight sheet metal so the husky boxes seem to be a bit stronger. The roller bearings are smooth and the finish is good. for a home/DIY box i would recommend it.
once you have them apart you might as well clean them up some more and put some lube on it. I usually use anti seize but they make a speacial grease made for brake that you can get at an auto parts store for a couple dollars.
once you have them apart you might as well clean them up some more and put some lube on it. I usually use anti seize but they make a speacial grease made for brake that you can get at an auto parts store for a couple dollars.
both codes are the o2s shorting to voltage. this means that the o2s are shorting somewhere in the system. This could be caused by bad wiring or a bad sensor shorting in to the exhaust pipe (in my experiance its usualy a bad sensor caused by a heater circuit problem) but i could be wrong. Havnt had much experiance with an o2 problem like this. IF the sensors are bad, it could be the cause of the misfire so i would get them checked out.
both codes are the o2s shorting to voltage. this means that the o2s are shorting somewhere in the system. This could be caused by bad wiring or a bad sensor shorting in to the exhaust pipe (in my experiance its usualy a bad sensor caused by a heater circuit problem) but i could be wrong. Havnt had much experiance with an o2 problem like this. IF the sensors are bad, it could be the cause of the misfire so i would get them checked out.
the best way to do it is to have a pro recover the system before you replace the compressor (incase its still charged) and then have a pro recharge the system after you replace the compressor. a pro will put a vacuum on the system to remove moisture and anything else in the system, then they will recharge it to the specific pressure, with oil, and a leak dye. it may cost a little more but its the best way to do it. most shops will do the quick recover/charge for pretty cheap.
the best way to do it is to have a pro recover the system before you replace the compressor (incase its still charged) and then have a pro recharge the system after you replace the compressor. a pro will put a vacuum on the system to remove moisture and anything else in the system, then they will recharge it to the specific pressure, with oil, and a leak dye. it may cost a little more but its the best way to do it. most shops will do the quick recover/charge for pretty cheap.
when hitting the brakes, does the car feel like it wants to pull to one direction? it sounds like a caliper or piston is sticking. maybe the side that wasnt replaced. Check both calipers and make sure the slides and pins are clean.
when hitting the brakes, does the car feel like it wants to pull to one direction? it sounds like a caliper or piston is sticking. maybe the side that wasnt replaced. Check both calipers and make sure the slides and pins are clean.
there are many things that could cause a misfire. plugs, wires, ignition coils, ect. Not to mention sensor issues or fuel issues. the front o2 can cause fuel issues which can cause a miss so i would start with them. Replace them with OE sensors (NTK i belive is OE on dodge trucks), not aftermarket crap (Bosch especially). did you pull codes for the o2s? if so, what numbers?
