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you should be able to connect it to any clean metal surface. im not 100% sure but if its just a trickle charge type maintainer, i dont see any harm in hooking it directly to the battery negative.
I’ve heard that both schools are about the same and have great training but isnt worth going. I work with a guy that went to uti near chicago and he’s doing the same job i am making the same amount i am (i have no college training but more experience). Ive asked him about it and he said that it wasnt worth the cost of that school. I believe its only a nine month program for both and you dont even get a degree plus the tuition is close to 30K. theres technical schools in my area where you can get a 1 year diploma and tuition is only about 7k. again, this is just what i’ve heard, i cant say 100% for sure. I thought about going to uti myself but after talking to other techs, they also agree that its not worth it. i’ve been told the best way to go about schooling is a 1 or 2 year program from a regular tech school, then get your ASE’s done afterwards.
I’ve heard that both schools are about the same and have great training but isnt worth going. I work with a guy that went to uti near chicago and he’s doing the same job i am making the same amount i am (i have no college training but more experience). Ive asked him about it and he said that it wasnt worth the cost of that school. I believe its only a nine month program for both and you dont even get a degree plus the tuition is close to 30K. theres technical schools in my area where you can get a 1 year diploma and tuition is only about 7k. again, this is just what i’ve heard, i cant say 100% for sure. I thought about going to uti myself but after talking to other techs, they also agree that its not worth it. i’ve been told the best way to go about schooling is a 1 or 2 year program from a regular tech school, then get your ASE’s done afterwards.
Ive used that method before too. thats always my go-to method if part of the bolt is still sticking up. i’ve even used that method if the bolt breaks off flush. i just set the nut over the broken stud and fill in the hole with wire. Unfortunately, most of the time (for me at least) the bolt breaks off inside the hole which is when i have to use surgical precision the extract it without doing more damage.
Ive used that method before too. thats always my go-to method if part of the bolt is still sticking up. i’ve even used that method if the bolt breaks off flush. i just set the nut over the broken stud and fill in the hole with wire. Unfortunately, most of the time (for me at least) the bolt breaks off inside the hole which is when i have to use surgical precision the extract it without doing more damage.
i always start with a left hand bit, some times i would get lucky enough for the bit to catch and walk the broken bolt out but others i have to reach for an extractor. if that’s the case, my go to set is one from snap-on, http://store.snapon.com/Combination-Extractor-Sets-Extractor-Set-20-pcs–P630634.aspx . it works pretty well. never had one break yet. the best technique i’ve come up with so far is using a pencil grinder to grind away the top few rusty threads from the hole, hit it with some fluid, drill it and if it doesn’t come out with the bit, i reach for that snap on set. seems to be an ok process.
i always start with a left hand bit, some times i would get lucky enough for the bit to catch and walk the broken bolt out but others i have to reach for an extractor. if that’s the case, my go to set is one from snap-on, http://store.snapon.com/Combination-Extractor-Sets-Extractor-Set-20-pcs–P630634.aspx . it works pretty well. never had one break yet. the best technique i’ve come up with so far is using a pencil grinder to grind away the top few rusty threads from the hole, hit it with some fluid, drill it and if it doesn’t come out with the bit, i reach for that snap on set. seems to be an ok process.
The o2 sensor that has current flow readings is a wide range o2 sensor. instead of the old fashioned o2 sensor that uses a signal voltage between 0-1 volt to tell the computer how rich/lean the engine is running, wide range o2 sensors use current(amps in the sensor circuit, not exhaust current). A rich condition will cause a negative current, and lean condition will cause a positive current, and at stoichiometry (air fuel ratio at 14.7:1) there is no current. the amount of current in either direction dictates how rich/lean the engine is running. in your case, the reading on your scan tool is telling you the vehicle is running lean. the fuel trim and lambda readings agree.
The o2 sensor that has current flow readings is a wide range o2 sensor. instead of the old fashioned o2 sensor that uses a signal voltage between 0-1 volt to tell the computer how rich/lean the engine is running, wide range o2 sensors use current(amps in the sensor circuit, not exhaust current). A rich condition will cause a negative current, and lean condition will cause a positive current, and at stoichiometry (air fuel ratio at 14.7:1) there is no current. the amount of current in either direction dictates how rich/lean the engine is running. in your case, the reading on your scan tool is telling you the vehicle is running lean. the fuel trim and lambda readings agree.
update #2
Once again so far, so good. he hasn’t had anymore issues. I scanned it again to see if there were codes of any type and nothing showed up. Unfortunately, i cant say what actually caused the problem. It must have been one of the solutions i tried earlier, but i wouldn’t know which one. if any problems show up later i’ll post another update but i think as of now, I’m going to call this one solved. I appreciate all the help and links to get this figured out. thanks again.
update #2
Once again so far, so good. he hasn’t had anymore issues. I scanned it again to see if there were codes of any type and nothing showed up. Unfortunately, i cant say what actually caused the problem. It must have been one of the solutions i tried earlier, but i wouldn’t know which one. if any problems show up later i’ll post another update but i think as of now, I’m going to call this one solved. I appreciate all the help and links to get this figured out. thanks again.
As of now the problem hasn’t come back. not exactly sure which attempted solution solved the problem but so far its running fine. if it happens again, i may try putting a new TPS in it. I’m hoping its not a tranny starting to go. If it keeps happening, i’ll just have to tell him to take it somewhere where they have the ability to check into it more than i can and if needed, re-flash the pcm. As for cleaning the throttle, i disconnected the battery before doing anything. Not sure if that would help keep from screwing up the computer reference but i figured it cant hurt to disconnect it anyway. Thanks again for the replies, i’ll post another update in about a week or so.
As of now the problem hasn’t come back. not exactly sure which attempted solution solved the problem but so far its running fine. if it happens again, i may try putting a new TPS in it. I’m hoping its not a tranny starting to go. If it keeps happening, i’ll just have to tell him to take it somewhere where they have the ability to check into it more than i can and if needed, re-flash the pcm. As for cleaning the throttle, i disconnected the battery before doing anything. Not sure if that would help keep from screwing up the computer reference but i figured it cant hurt to disconnect it anyway. Thanks again for the replies, i’ll post another update in about a week or so.
Finally got a chance to look into it yesterday. The top of the air box was not quite sitting on the bottom properly but was still sealed against the rubber on the air filter. I fixed that, checked all clamps in the intake tubes, and cleaned the inside of the throttle body. I did do a TPS sweep with my fluke 88 (it has an analog pointer that works great for checking variable resistors). i noticed it had 4 pins instead of 3, which i wasnt used to, i normally see 3 pins. The sensor has 2 signal pins on it, reference voltage, and reference return (ground). i tested it with one probe on the reference voltage and another probe on one of the signal pins ( i tested both one at a time). im pretty sure that’s how its supposed to be done, but if im wrong, correct me and i’ll test it again. I found 1 spot towards the higher end of throttle percentage that dropped out but i want to make sure that ive done all the testing i possibly can before i throw a new sensor in it (a new one is about $150). I’ll give it a few more days to see if it still acts up and post another update.
Finally got a chance to look into it yesterday. The top of the air box was not quite sitting on the bottom properly but was still sealed against the rubber on the air filter. I fixed that, checked all clamps in the intake tubes, and cleaned the inside of the throttle body. I did do a TPS sweep with my fluke 88 (it has an analog pointer that works great for checking variable resistors). i noticed it had 4 pins instead of 3, which i wasnt used to, i normally see 3 pins. The sensor has 2 signal pins on it, reference voltage, and reference return (ground). i tested it with one probe on the reference voltage and another probe on one of the signal pins ( i tested both one at a time). im pretty sure that’s how its supposed to be done, but if im wrong, correct me and i’ll test it again. I found 1 spot towards the higher end of throttle percentage that dropped out but i want to make sure that ive done all the testing i possibly can before i throw a new sensor in it (a new one is about $150). I’ll give it a few more days to see if it still acts up and post another update.