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i would try to get another $10. http://www.amazon.com/Innova-1303b-3130-Global-Scan/dp/B0043CSS46/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1393382036&sr=1-3&keywords=scan+tool its a good DIY tool for minor diagnostics. your not really going to get anything worth buying for under $90 unless its strictly a code reader. it all depends on what you need from the tool.
i would try to get another $10. http://www.amazon.com/Innova-1303b-3130-Global-Scan/dp/B0043CSS46/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1393382036&sr=1-3&keywords=scan+tool its a good DIY tool for minor diagnostics. your not really going to get anything worth buying for under $90 unless its strictly a code reader. it all depends on what you need from the tool.
the cp9550 would be the better of the 2 (other than the expensive one). its capable of more things, but both are basically just code readers. if you want scan tool functionality, like live data, you need to buy something like what eric has. it mostly depends on what you plan on doing with. if you just want to read codes, the 2 cheap ones will do great, but if you want to actually diagnose problems, i would look at a better scantool. otc, launch, actron, and autel all make good full functional scan tools for a reasonable price.
the cp9550 would be the better of the 2 (other than the expensive one). its capable of more things, but both are basically just code readers. if you want scan tool functionality, like live data, you need to buy something like what eric has. it mostly depends on what you plan on doing with. if you just want to read codes, the 2 cheap ones will do great, but if you want to actually diagnose problems, i would look at a better scantool. otc, launch, actron, and autel all make good full functional scan tools for a reasonable price.
it does mostly regulate voltage. without out it, the voltage wont be stable and will cause problems. as for recommendations, pretty much anything that is not rebuilt does OK from my experience. any shop will be able to get new alternators for what ever type you need. and the voltage regulator doesnt need to be installed separately, its built onto the back of the alternator.
it does mostly regulate voltage. without out it, the voltage wont be stable and will cause problems. as for recommendations, pretty much anything that is not rebuilt does OK from my experience. any shop will be able to get new alternators for what ever type you need. and the voltage regulator doesnt need to be installed separately, its built onto the back of the alternator.
your car has to have a regulator. you cant run without one. the electrical system will go crazy and you could fry the computer. if you plan on replacing the alternator, you can buy aftermarket ones with higher amp ratings. the new alternator will come with a regulator built in with the same amp rating.
your car has to have a regulator. you cant run without one. the electrical system will go crazy and you could fry the computer. if you plan on replacing the alternator, you can buy aftermarket ones with higher amp ratings. the new alternator will come with a regulator built in with the same amp rating.
If its a sealed transmission, there is a filler filler plug on the side of the transmission that has to be removed to check the fluid. im not sure where exactly its located on that transmission. Once you remove the plug the fluid should have a steady trickle out of the hole. If it does, the tranny is at the proper level. If no fluid, or a lot of fluid comes out of the hole, then you need to adjust the level by adding/draining fluid.
If its a sealed transmission, there is a filler filler plug on the side of the transmission that has to be removed to check the fluid. im not sure where exactly its located on that transmission. Once you remove the plug the fluid should have a steady trickle out of the hole. If it does, the tranny is at the proper level. If no fluid, or a lot of fluid comes out of the hole, then you need to adjust the level by adding/draining fluid.
not that i can think of. you could always just take it apart and do a visual check but i would suggest just going and buying a multieter. you can get them from any auto parts store for $5-10. that would be the best way to do it. itll save you the hassle of tearing it apart.
not that i can think of. you could always just take it apart and do a visual check but i would suggest just going and buying a multieter. you can get them from any auto parts store for $5-10. that would be the best way to do it. itll save you the hassle of tearing it apart.
if you own a multimeter, set it to VDC and touch one probe to the center-back part of the outlet and the other to the side of the outlet and measure the voltage. it should be roughly 12.6V. if its lower (like less than 10) you might have high resistance in the circuit cause by a corroded wire or plug. it might have enough power to turn on a light on a charger but might not be enough to charge properly.
if you own a multimeter, set it to VDC and touch one probe to the center-back part of the outlet and the other to the side of the outlet and measure the voltage. it should be roughly 12.6V. if its lower (like less than 10) you might have high resistance in the circuit cause by a corroded wire or plug. it might have enough power to turn on a light on a charger but might not be enough to charge properly.