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not sure exactly on that car but for the most part its pretty similar on most cars.
1. take tires off
2. find the sway bar links (should look like a small rod connecting a bar to the control arm)
3. get an impact wrench (if you dont have one, buy one. its worth the money and almost a MUST if you do this job) and loosen the top nut holding it to the control arm. (if you cant get the nuts loose without the shaft spinning, you may need to cut it out with a sawzall or a small cutting wheel, or you can try to use a nut splitter if theres room)
4. do the same thing for the nut holding it to the sway bar (if you have to, you can put a floor jack under the control arm to put pressure on the sway bar link. it sometimes helps to loosen the bolts without the whole shaft spinning)
5. using the floor jack, raise/lower the control arm until the new swaw bar link fits into the holes.
6. using the impact wrench, tighten the nuts down until the bushings start to buldge out a bit
thatll get you in the ball park. there maybe some extra steps involved with that perticular car but for the most part its a pretty straight forward job. look at it enough and it will make sense as you start taking it apart. do one side at a time so you can look at the other side to figure out how it goes back together if you forget.
hope that helps
is that a carburated engine or throttle body injection? you might have a bad idle air control system. (if that engine has something of the sort). the hard turning causes the power steering pump to work harder putting more load on the engine. the idle air control is there to rev up the engine just a little bit to prevent it from bogging and dying by pushing a small amount of air into the intake kind of like a very small supercharger. if the idle air control is bad, the power steering pump would bog the engine down to the point of killing it.
is that a carburated engine or throttle body injection? you might have a bad idle air control system. (if that engine has something of the sort). the hard turning causes the power steering pump to work harder putting more load on the engine. the idle air control is there to rev up the engine just a little bit to prevent it from bogging and dying by pushing a small amount of air into the intake kind of like a very small supercharger. if the idle air control is bad, the power steering pump would bog the engine down to the point of killing it.
i thought they stopped supporting it in 2006. now that i know its 2008, im leaning more towards that especialy for the price they are going for right now but can i still buy cartriges and keys for specific vehicles? if so, where can i get them? i found an mt2500 on craigslist for cheap. its got 2 domestic cartriges and 2 asian import cartriges but only a few keys. also, is there any difference between the mt2500 and the mtg2500 other than graphing capability (ie: does it use the same cartriges, keys, years covered…)?
i thought they stopped supporting it in 2006. now that i know its 2008, im leaning more towards that especialy for the price they are going for right now but can i still buy cartriges and keys for specific vehicles? if so, where can i get them? i found an mt2500 on craigslist for cheap. its got 2 domestic cartriges and 2 asian import cartriges but only a few keys. also, is there any difference between the mt2500 and the mtg2500 other than graphing capability (ie: does it use the same cartriges, keys, years covered…)?
we got it figured out. the timing was a little too high causin the knock. i backed it off a bit (dont remember to what) but its running WAY better. and yes it has a stroker cam in it. i forgot to say that. hes also got an aftermarket cam so i just backed it off little by little till i got it to a point where the engine was happy again. problem solved. thanks for the inputs.
we got it figured out. the timing was a little too high causin the knock. i backed it off a bit (dont remember to what) but its running WAY better. and yes it has a stroker cam in it. i forgot to say that. hes also got an aftermarket cam so i just backed it off little by little till i got it to a point where the engine was happy again. problem solved. thanks for the inputs.
was the truck sitting for a few days before you removed the motor? the fuel could have flowed back into the tank if it sat long enough causing the pressre in the rails to be low. theres a check valve on the fuel pump that keeps the rails under pressure and prevents fuel from flowing back into the tank. that may be your problem. if you can, at some point, check the fuel pressure when its running. on a 5.9 it should be 48-50psi.
was the truck sitting for a few days before you removed the motor? the fuel could have flowed back into the tank if it sat long enough causing the pressre in the rails to be low. theres a check valve on the fuel pump that keeps the rails under pressure and prevents fuel from flowing back into the tank. that may be your problem. if you can, at some point, check the fuel pressure when its running. on a 5.9 it should be 48-50psi.
would the bad teeth/tooth keep ticking? no matter what i do it ticks consistantly. it almost sounds like a loud clock no matter what settings i have it on. like i said, my mechanic buddy showed me which one to replace im just curious to know what causes the problem.